Nevermind the xs master cylinder... found a used one but...

It looks pretty beat up but probably better off than the one I had on my bike. This one has the allen head screws and they are really rusty. Not stripped, just rusty. Need some advice on removing the rusty screws from the resevoire cover without stripping them. Tried to remove one and broke the tip of the allen wrench off. Any tricks anyone? Before I strip them to hell?

 

PB BLASTER SOAK

 

KROIL. PB Blaster is good, KROIL better.

Explain again why you're just not rebuilding the original?

 

Re: Nevermind the xs master cylinder... found a used one but

I screwed around with an old one I had, but finally just bought a new one for like 100 bucks.It is your front brake after all.....

 

wrote you a message, Fitz. In depth explaination of why I wouldn't rebuild the cylinder. I can copy and paste the post here but it is a long explaination. The master cylinder was something out of the twilight zone and I will never ride a bike I just bought again without also checking that.
I am not a new rider but have only been riding street bikes for 3 seasons. I know a lot of what to look for but check everything.
A quick example of why... there was actually grease from a grease gun... the kind you grease the chassis of a car with, in my brake fluid and caked in and all around my bleeder valve. Check everything when you buy a bike.

 

Re: Nevermind the xs master cylinder... found a used one but

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And what's wrong with that? :lol:

 

well... I'd rather not be lubing the inside of my brake system with wierd gray goo... Haha... I have rebuild kits but my list from you goes a little further than that, Chacal. I am actually going to be ordering 2 bleeder valves along with that nifty midi vac contraption. but if, when I am done, i find that mysterious gray goo in my brake fluid... you'd better have it in stock cuz I am buying more. LOL

 

You're going to want to replace the brake LINES too; stainless lines are a real upgrade over stock and probably the single best thing you can do to improve stopping power.

Also, keep something in mind: If you're going to use a "speed bleeder" you install it after you've got the system filled and initially bled. Won't work with the Mity-Vac. When using the Mity-Vac, you will probably need a turn or two of teflon tape on the bleed screw to keep the vacuum from drawing air around the threads.

 

Yeah I am replacing the lines with stainless. I have a list of parts here I am getting from chacal and those are definitely a must. Also... does the distribution joint ever need to be rebuilt or cleaned? What should I do with that while I am restoring the brake system?

As far as the mity vac goes... I figured I would use that to do the initial bleed to get the system filled then use the speed bleeder to give it the final bleed. Someone else told me to use tape around the screw too and to buy a spare bleeder screw.

 

the distribution block is just a block with threaded holes in it.

Just clean it up.

 

Got it... One thing this bike won't have a problem doing is stopping. I can't wait to see the difference of a fresh brake system and with the stainless lines.