rear axle stuck to brake plate (82 Seca 650).

hey there
time for this bikes' first-ever tire change. Everything went ok until I try to slide out the axle. The brake backing plate comes with it and I can't get them to separate

I shot a bit of WD40 everywhere I could. When I tap on the axle from the shaft-drive side, it slides out OK, until the brake plate hits the other side of the swingarm.

Before I resort to smashing it with a hammer, I though I'd ask those who are smarter than me. Smash-away? or is there a tip / trick to persuade the axle to break-free from the rear brake?

Can't wait to get it apart and check for delamination (thanks fitz)

 

never mind (I think)

I found this post http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... =next.html

According to it, I need a bigger hammer. Any other ideas, I'm all ears.

I've been smashing the hell out of this thing already.

 

I actually had my axle get stuck on mine 25 years ago and brought it to a Yamaha dealer to have them fix it. Long story short, I had to tell them what to do. They basically cut the axle off and pushed it out with a press. If you can get some Kroil I'd try that.

 

I many times used to use an air hammer with the right bit to push it.
Try heating up the brake plate.

 

you need a helper to hold something on the brake side of the swingarm (4x4, 2x4, pipe)
something heavy to concentrate the force right at the axle
when you hit it hard the swingarm flexes and if thats not enough to move the axle nothing moves
just like driving a nail into a thin board, if you don't put something behind it the nail just bounces

 

good idea.
right now, I've been letting the brake plate be 'stopped' by the swingarm but I'm sure that has a lot of give.

With the bike parallel to a wall, I'll put a piece of 2X4 between the wall and the brake plate so all the impact of hammering doesn't get dissipated.

I don't have Kroil but I have been heating it and spraying WD40 on the outside, and with the little spray-tube down into the inside of the brake.

Sigh.... it'll come

 

Have you tried returning it to it's starting position, then try to remove it again- - you know, cycle it.

 

Well it never left its starting position yet. That is, I've slid the axle back & forth a million times now but the brake has followed it without budging.

My buddy came over and held a piece of wood in place while I whacked away on the other side. A couple more attempts heating it up, WD40, whack.... repeat process. Nothing doing.

I thought of a different approach. Replace the main axle bolt and pinch bolt so the axle is firmly in place, then try to whack the brake itself, to see if I can break it free (in rotating it around the axle).

Sounded like a good idea, except I've burred up the threads on the end of the axle so now I can't get the main axle nut back on!

So now I've not only got to get the axle off, I'll also have to have those threads re-done so the nut can screw-on.

sigh...

 

I'm thinking this might be my only option.... or a sledgehammer for a decisive whack?

So far this project has not required the purchase of any new tools but I have a feeling that's about to end.

 

You night need an Axle if you have done severe damage to the Threads.
If not ... Re-tap the Threads.

CENTER-Punch the Threaded=end of the Axle.
Drill a "Good-sized" dimple in the end of the Axle.
Use the Dimple for keeping a Tool cwntered as you drive the Axle out.

Once the Axle is Drilled and dimpled.
Get a Hardened Steel Bolt ... long enough to drive the Axle out.
Grind a dull point in the Bolt that will fit the Dimple.

Knock it out.

 

thanks Rick
there was already a great 'hole' that goes right into the axle, big enough insert a standard robertson head screwriver in there, which is what I've been using to hammer it with (and my left hand, a few times)
As a result, there's only minor thread damage from only a few frustrated hammer whacks. Those threads can be saved. (and the swelling in my hand will eventually subside too)

Just another item to add to the list for a simple tire change!

 

When you punch that Axle out of there, ... Sand it down to Bare Metal and put a new Finish on it.
Coat the whole thing with Permatex AntiSeize Compound whenn you reinstall it.

Since this job turned into a nightmare ... Check the Wheel and the Hub's Bearings, ... and make sure they BOTH spin without a hitch.

The rear-end Bearings are a Worldwide Standard Size.
You can NEW Bearings that are rated for loads far in excess than the Bike would exert ... for >> Short Money << at a Bearing Supply Outlet ... or Online.

You might as well do the Brake Cam Pivot Port and refinish the Brake Shoe Cam Shaft and lube the Shaft and Port with Waterproof grease.

 

those words are music to my ears.

A 14oz hammer on a screwdriver aint gonna knock-loose a 28 yr old bond. Wish I had realized that sooner.

You mentioned dimpling the end of the axle. Mine has a nicely drilled-in hole. I take it that's not normal? I'm thinking the original owner took a stab at it at some point but quit, which is why those tires are original.

 

Sounds like you at the point where you need to get tough with it.

Bolt-up a loop of chain to the Axle at the Brake-side of the Axle.
Rent a BIG Slugging Hammer from an Auto Body Shop.
The fee is a Dozen Donuts and a "Box-o-Joe" from Duncan Donuts.

Just pick any AutoBody Shop. Bring the goodies and say:
"Jesus appeared to me and said you guys are working too hard and need a coffee break. Jesus also wants you to loan me the Big Slugging Hammer to get a stuck rear axle out of my Bike. This happened just as I was about to pull the trigger on the gun I had in my mouth for not being able to get the axle out."

 

Wow... tried the bigger hammer and proper punch. No change.

It ended up costing me a bottle of Woodbridge Zimfandell. A $14 bottle of wine, as a bribe to my local mechanic, who lent me the tools, then upon hearing of my failure, he used air hammer to pound it out of there.

I had to PUSH it just under a mile to get it there with the rear-end mostly disassembled, then push it home afterwards.

The icing on the cake is that the front tire was flat. So I had to go get the front tire changed, even to be able to push it, then once the rear wheel was off, go have that one changed. 30 miles round trip each time.

3 days, lots of swearing, a bruised left hand, 2 miles round-trip of pushing the bike..... This was the most painful tire change in my life, for sure.


Rear brakes were beautiful clean and fully functional. I FINALLY got to take her out for a good 5 mile ride to get her warm & change her oil. The first actual ride... I can't believe it.

Success!

 

Glad you got it free.

Perhaps your hammer wasn't big enough. I have a couple dead blow hammers hanging in the shop. One's a 3 pound. If it's going to move it moves after a few whacks with that. Though I haven't had to use it on the bike it's come in handy several times on my Jeep.

 

I hate pushing a bike with air un the tires!
How much work is it with a flat, ... yikes!

I hope you prepped the Axle so you don't hqve to do that again!

Nice to get the kinks out ride instead of push, ... huh?

 

You said it (riding)

I did your checklist while I was in there. I didn't buy anti-seize compound but I used the same fine wetsand paper I bought for you carb cleaning guide (for the the clunk test). Took some elbow grease but it looks like a new shaft now, as does everything else in there.

I did grease her up good, as well as the splines so it should be OK. Not like any rear tire's gonna more then a season or two from now on.

thanks to everyone (again) for all your help & insight.

this forum rocks!