Carb Removal & Reinstall

Is there a suggested means to remove the carbs from the engine head and airbox boots outside of slacken the throttle and choke cable and take your time?

I got mine off, I removed the clamps on both sides of the carbs but there really isn't a lot of give either towards the engine head or back against the airbox.

Post removal I removed the carb boots by removing the 8 hex bolts.

Just didn't feel good...but then again, first time I'm doing it Just looking for some tips for reinstall and if I have to drop the carbs off again.

Thanks in advance!

 

Did you loosen the airbox by taking the bolts out?also a little washing up liquid helps lubricate things when refitting,ive found sometimes they go straight back on, other times its a cup of coffee job,or two.

 

Make sure you put the carb boots back on the motor before installing the carbs.
If this is your first time it'll be just as rough getting everything back in as it was to take out. +1 on simonref... take the airbox fasteners out. You won't get much, but it'll give you a little more play. Put the carb intake side on first then work them into the manifolds. You'll either feel or hear them pop into the manifolds... you know they are all the way in.
I use a dentist hook to work the edge of the boots and holders around the carbs to get them around. Whatever you use, be careful not to poke any holes through the rubber. It's a goofy job, and takes some force but you'll get em.

 

I bow to your superior Wit and Intellect Sir. :wink:

 

Thanks all, thats helpful. The airbox boots are old and stiff, the new ones that JUST arrived from Chacal are soft and plyable. The old intake manifolds have seen better days, can salvage the caps and clamps but should be replaced. The don't come cheap either! I guess tires can wait! Hahahaha

Appreciate the guidance!

 

The intake manifolds, even though cracked, may be serviceable as long as the cracks don't go all the way through. You can pack them with black adhesive RTV sealant and/or paint them with liquid electrical tape (I prefer the former.)

You are indeed lucky, sir, to have removed them without breaking a bolt.

Don't press your luck: replace the bolts and use anti-sieze upon reassembly.

 

Considered servicing the manifolds...but #1 and #4 are pretty badly cracked so given I have it apart now, will opt for replacements ($ouch) and be done with it. The rest of my parts arrived today from Chacal and I've already replaced the carb drain screws and am now installing the new fuse panel to upgrade the electrical.

Gotta find a day to "work from home" very soon

Will ensure I replace the bolts, thanks for the tip on that.

 

I've found that putting a thin coat of grease (I use dielectric) on the outside of the carb connections (the nipple that goes into the intake) makes the job go much easier, seals better and when you have to remove them again they pop right out. It doesn't take much, I just put a little dab on each carb and spread it around the nipple with my finger.

 

You've obviously gotten them out, but in short, no. The things you have to do: disconnect throttle cable, disconnect choke cable. I disconnect the clutch cable and get that out of the way, too. After that, I loosen the airbox, then loosen the bands on the airbox/carb boots. I work them backwards by pushing them most of the way in the airbox. That gives me a lot of room to pull the carb rack back after I loosen the carb/manifold boot bands. To re-install, I sometimes run a finger of oil around the holes before pushing the carb rack back in. For the airbox boots, if they're soft, its easy. If they're hard, I use a heat gun and warm them up a bit. They soften up for enough time to get them back onto the carbs. I don't usually use oil or KY here, because I like the friction to help hold them in place as I tighten the rings. I do the inside ones first, then the outside ones.

The first time I did this, it took me a little over an hour to do. I can do it pretty quick now. Last summer at a carb clinic here I put a rack in for one attendee. We timed it. I had the rack back in, hooked up, and the bike running in under 8 minutes. I can't usually do it THAT fast, but on average, I'd say I can have them back in 15 or less. Of course, that's also after having pulled carbs numerous times on 7 different bikes, several parts bikes to tear apart, and a couple carb clinics.

Good job on getting yours out, now lets see how you do getting them back in. At least you have people to help you here on your first carb remove/install project. I didn't. I had to figure it out. I wish I had found XJBikes before I pulled my first set. Oh well........

Dave

 

Oh god... don't do that. I really just guess.

 

Thanks Dave and Skills...actually did it as you indicated...didn't loosen the airbox screw..but upon inspection it was a little loose, so there was my luck. The old airbox boots are very hard...the new ones should be a snap to reinstall.

Yup, the forum has been invaluable thus far. I admit that the Haynes manual leaves a lot to be desired in this regard! Hopefully will pull the valve cover and engine head in the coming days and get going on that!

Cheers, Adam

 

The carbs the carbs the carbs. Do you have Rickomatics write up on the proper cleaning method? Since you're probably going to jump right in, take a breath and read it thoughroly first. You'll find that it's very valuable

 

Aaah so to quote the truism"BullS***t baffles Brain" or in its original form
"if you cant beat them with Brain,baffle them with Bulls**t"

 

No! but would appreciate the pointer URL to it. The bike ran well for the 35km I had it out on the way home...the plugs are a little black...but the bike sat for a couple of years with old gas so when it was fired up...likely coughed and sputtered. Once I got some high octane into the lines, it ran strong. Intakes and bowls look nice and clean...not sure I'm going to take them down (yet)....

 

ferget it...found the article