Steel Braided Brake Lines

I am looking for some feedback from people who have installed steel braided lines on their bike. How much does it improve break feel and feedback? How many miles/years were your break lines when you made the switch? Thanks for the help.

 

i recently installed steel brake lines and found the response and feel completely different to the (i think) original rubber hose type.
i can now stop the bike with a one finger application or in an emergency stop use two fingers and just about stand it on the front wheel.

do yourself a favour and make the change to the steel braided lines, you won't regret it

 

i used to call them "slowdowns" now their breaks

 

SOA, here is what you need to do. Ride your XJ over to your nearest bike dealer paying close attention to how "firm" your current set feels. Walk into the showroom and grab the front brake on anything new and that my friend is the feeling you will get from your old XJ after the switch.
I replaced my original lines about 2 months ago and wish I had done it sooner. I really think :wink: that I could do a tail stand on my bike now

It's an upgrade worth more than double what you will spend

 

Great feedback. Any suggestion on brands? Russell? Any other?

 

Look in the back pages of the latest Bike Mags.
I saw an ad for Custom Stainless Brake Lines, ... $169.00
(They even offer some different colors.)

 

Just done this today..bought braided lines from ebay £36....installed in less than an hour..bled in 15 mins thanks to pvtschultz..
Check this for bleeding the easy way...


Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:18 am Post subject: Re: Bleeding brakes

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bleeding the brakes on these old Japanese bikes can be a huge PITA, especially from a dry master cylinder. A vacuum bleeder will definately help, otherwise there is a couple things that you can do.

1. Fill the master cylinder (obiously)

2. Open the bleed screw (put a small plastic tube on it to direct the fluid away from all painted surfaces)

3. Pull the lever all the way to the handlebar

4. Close the bleed screw, and release the lever.

The trick here is to get that plunger to fully return to the released position with no fluid in the lines. Air is compressible so you can pull a pretty good vacuum and never get anywhere. The trick that I learned on my Suzuki (haven't started from scratch on the XJ) is the wiggle the lever against the plunger to get it to pop back out. Once it has fully extended back out, start over at step (1) until there is fluid without bubbles coming out of the bleed screw and the lever is firm.

Always, always, always make sure that there is fluid in the master cylinder during this process. Otherwise you'll just keep chasing your tail and never really get anywhere.

HTH

Full thread here http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15995.html

 

The lines on both my XJ and XS1100 were OEM, I replaced them two yeasr ago. New brake lines are the best improvement you can make. I got mine from HEL USA, a complte kit for my XJ1100 was 200$. That included stainless banjo bolts. caliper bleed screws and gaskets.

Our resident parts guru Chacal has them also.

 

I should have pointed out Chacal as well.

SOA, get in touch with him. He knows every single piece you will need

 

Thank you, great feedback. I think this will be my next project.

 

I would be willing to bet a local NAPA store could fabricate you a set if you gave them dimensions and fittings. I'm also thinking of doing the same when I get my engine back together.

 

Highly recommended. All my stuff came from chacal:



He can also do custom hoses with the same "clocking" of the fittings, but longer or shorter than stock. Shorter upper hoses are the finishing touch for a low handlebar retrofit.