83 XJ650 Maxim -- Rear tire resistance

Quick question. I just took a trip to the local Yamaha dealer and sat on a few bikes. I immediately noticed how easily the bike would roll in neutral....

My 83 Maxim doesn't roll that smooth. Is this a product of 30 years of mechanical advancement, or do I need to change/replace/clean something? I've never had the rear tire off in the 2 months I've had the bike.

 

Chain Drive Bikes are much easier to move than Shaft Drive.

There's more moving parts.

Tire Pressures, ... too. Ck your tires!

 

Well I guess that makes sense. Yeah the front tire does have a slow leak, don't worry it's not road legal yet so I'm not driving it like that, but even with tire pressure correct it rolls hard.

I didn't know if maybe the drum brakes could be dragging or bearings were bad. Like I said, I've never had the rear tire off and this is my first bike so.....yeah. Just making sure everything is good before I get this thing on the road.

 

Because your LIFE is going to depend on the Brakes, ... Spend an afternoon and Refurbish the Front and Rear.

Get some New Caliper Seals and Overhaul the Front Caliper(s)
New Pads.

The Rear is a MUST Inspect.
You don't want Brake Pads that are so OLD they are falling apart on you.

There might be a Rust Ridge around the Rear Drum.
Get rid of it with a Dremel Medium Sanding Disc.

Flush the system up-front.
New Fluid.
You know, ... Make it yours. As new as you can get it.

After you know it runs, ... of course!

 

I have it running, which is exciting! Took it for a spin today for the first time, just up and down the road a few times. I know I NEED to do brakes before I get it on the road for good.

Pads, caliper rebuild, and rear brakes for sure. I put new brake fluid in the front brakes because the master cylinder was gunked up with crystalized fluid. Am I going to have to need to drain out the brake lines to get into the caliper? My instinct says yes. I'll have to read up in my service manual!

Oh and BTW, completely unrelated -- Thank you Rick for your carb cleaning write up! I would have never been able to get this bike running in the first place if I didn't have your walkthrough in hand!

 

Good for you!
You saved a whole bunch of dough.
Plus, you are confident that the job got done right.

That's what inspired me to spend an evening with a set of Carbs just to the side of my keyboard.

Too many people were taking Carbs to so-called experts and getting ripped-off.
Providing a Play-by-play to get the Carbs done, with some humor thrown-in, has proved to be a hit with a lot of folks.

Thanks.

 

No problem. I only hope that I can pass the favor along and help someone else out through my experience.

It is a GREAT feeling knowing this beast runs because I got my hands dirty and got it done the RIGHT way. Like you said in your write-up -- the only person willing to get your carbs as clean as you would want them is you!

 

Check your rear brake for delamination right away! You could be experiencing rear brake drag due to a lining flopping about loose in there.

READ: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Happens a lot...

 

I guess I found my afternoon project! I'm assuming my rear shocks need to come off. Are these things going to 'take off' when take off the rear tire, or are they locked into their current position? I don't have a a tool fix the shocks if they compress on me.

 

You don't need to remove the shocks to remove the rear wheel and access the rear brake.

-Bike on centerstand.
-Disconnect rear brake rod and torsion bar.
-Remove axle nut cotter pin and axle nut (on LH side.)
-Loosen axle pinch bolt (RH side.)
-Pull out the axle, to the right.
-Shift the wheel/brake assembly to the right to disengage it from the splines in the final drive assembly, and then withdraw it to the rear. (this step sounds easier than it is.)

-Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly; be sure to torque the axle nut to the correct spec (77.4 ft/lb) and use a new cotter pin.

 

awesome! thanks for the outline. doesn't sound very difficult at all. i'll definately take a look this afternoon. i might even get crafty and post some pictures of my findings!

 

Don't say I didn't warn you... Although it is still a whole lot easier than Norton Commando rear wheel removal...

 

It's alright, it's not my daily rider so if I have to walk away I'm okay with that. But thank's for the warning!

 

So this one is for you bigfitz:

Took the rear tire off and looky at what I found!

What is that in there?


Oh I see it now!


That's right! Two pieces became three!


Geez bigfitz, you must HATE to be right about this!? I'll be purchasing a new pair of rear brake pads soon enough.

My wife and daughter thank you for your concern for our saftey. You're right, EVERYONE should check their rear brakes if they don't know they have been recently replaced.

 

Looks that Rear Brake Inspect is going to have to be a YOU MUST DO for anybody who buys a Bike that is a Turn-Key Runner.

Bikes that Sit develop all sorts of unseen issues that can bite you.

THIS one, ... is an unseen Safety issue that can KILL you!!!

 

Seriously, I couldn't imagine going 25 mph and having a rear tire lock up....nevermind at highway speeds. Can you say 'road pizza'?