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xj750 head gasket

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by midknightrider83, May 6, 2010.

  1. midknightrider83

    midknightrider83 Member

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    i need to change the head gasket on my 83 xj750mk and i was wondering about difficulty? any tips or tricks? do i need to pull the moter or does pulling the gas tank give enough clearence to pull the head? any advice is welcome. thx in advance.
     
  2. Jotr

    Jotr Member

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    Just did mine on the 82 XJ650, didn't have to pull the motor, just the tank, valve cover etc. Its tight and two sets of hands were helpful for getting the head off. According to the Haynes manaual, you can do the same for the XJ750MK. Some pics in my sig...
     
  3. midknightrider83

    midknightrider83 Member

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    do you think i should change the rubbers around the head bolts when i do the gasket or is that un nessasary. also should i change the yics chamber seals?
     
  4. Jotr

    Jotr Member

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    I'm far from an expert...but changed the rubbers around the head bolts and the cam channel gasket. Was all in the kit I pickedup from Chacal...was more economical to get a kit as opposed to the single valve cover and head gasket seperatley. I snapped a bolt on the engine crank housing...so my new motto is "If it ain't leaking, don't touch it". If another component begins leaking hopefully WAY down the road, will have the gasket for it :)
     
  5. midknightrider83

    midknightrider83 Member

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    any advice on marking the timing chain and gears?
     
  6. Jotr

    Jotr Member

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    make note of your timing indicators on the cam caps and cam shafts...when your engine is lined to to TDC so that #1 and #4 are "up", reinsert the E and I shafts with the timing marks as close as you can, tighten down the cam caps slowly and sequentially as it will pull down onto the valve caps and pop some open, then make any final adjustments with a 22mm wrench. I had to remove the horn and oil cooler assembly to get at the E shaft properly. Once lined up, re-fit your sprockets/bolts to the chain and do a number of rotations to ensure the timing remains constant. If thats good and doesn't require adjustment, move the engine crank to "C" from TDC and refit the cam chain tensioner and check timing again to ensure you have it aligned properly. Of course, once I had it, noticed my chain guard in the front was _not_ seated properly, so had to back out and do it all again. It took me some time to get it right...the manual was a huge help and the more experienced gents here are a god send.

    Of course...the true test will be when I get the tank back, carbs mounted and attempt to fire it up!
     
  7. midknightrider83

    midknightrider83 Member

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    well i hope yours came out right. i'll start on mine as soon as i find a gasket set like you suggested getting. thx for the advice.
     
  8. Jotr

    Jotr Member

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    pm Chacal, he's got the stuff! Careful though, ordering parts gets addictive! :)
     

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