idle skyrockets??

So my throttle cable broke (the plastic piece on the L section), ended up replacing it and now when I start it fires up then the idle shoots super high, there is a little slack on the line but I don't know what causing the idle to go crazy :S please help!

 

double check your cable routing...turn the bars from the left limit to the right limit...does the idle change? I something is obviously binding

 

Check all your vacuum connections/lines/manifold plugs by spraying some WD-40 on them (if the revs change...). Sounds like you have a lean running condition - maybe something else happened when you broke your cable?

 

I'm running pods and open headers on stock jetting but would that cause it to run super lean even at idle?

 

definately runnin' lean...not sure if it would cause the idle to race like it is with only replacing a cable though

 

bah wishicould figure out the problem :S ill have to look at all the vac lines to see if i can find one with a hole, i thought with vac leaks the idle would surge though

 

then rule out binding...disconnect the throttle cable from the carbs (just let the cable hang)..it'll take 5 minutes and then you'll know for sure if it's vac or not

 

I see so with the cable completely disconnected the idle should be low, unless I have a vac leak which would make it rev high

 

bingo

 

I will check and update you thanks for the help!

 

so i got to lookin at the bike today, looks like all the vac lines are good and all clamps are tight. I rerouted the throttle cable and got rid of the little slack that was in the line, so no more play there. I did notice the choke looks like its supposed to have a cable going to it aswell to hold/pull tension on that, as of right now there is no tension and the bar is all the way down, thinkin this may be the culprit?


**Edit** upon further searching of the forums its sounding like i may need to bench-sync the carbs...it starts up fine but has the racing idle.. thinkin this may be the issue?

 

checked all the plugs and they were black and smell like gas >.> i dont see how i am running rich with stock jets, open header, and pods

 

Your describing the exact same issues I had on my 650. The idle was racing from startup. Crank the bike and it would run off like a bat out of hell. I ripped the carbs off and bench synced them and the high idle immediately went away. I am also running super rich on three cylinders, and one cylinder seems to only fire sometimes. I pulled the carbs and gave them a cleaning, and check the idle mixture screws. carbs 1-3 where all backed WAY out and carb 4 was bottomed out. The heads on the screws were mostly destroyed and the thread were in very poor shape. I guess that would explain the super rich and non-firing cylinder. Maybe? This was with pods and stock 4-2 exhaust.

I just got my new carbs and they look really good. Going to get them on the bike today and hoe everything smooths out. Once I get the carbs on, and all four cylinders firing correctly, then I can start trying to tune them.

I'm not very experienced with bikes, but I'd figure I'd share since your issue sounds so similar.

 

Awesome thanks for the insight! Making me definately lean towards the notion that the carbs need to be bench synched

 

let us know how all of this works out.

 

so i pulled the carbs and bench sync'd them...it WORKED! upon startup the idle is low, i do need to adjust the idle screw but i think ill do that tomorrow. It smells like its running really rich right now which doesnt make sense but im going to look into the fine tuning after the idle is a little more stable. Jst wanted to let you guys know that nickel was correct and the carbs just needed to be synced. Thanks for all the help!

 

update:
so i pulled all the plugs today to check their gapping, turns out 3 of the4 were wayyy out...im talkin gapped to >.040 so i regapped them to .030 and cleaned the carbs all up hopefully latr tonight when i go to start it itll run better, i bench-syncd the carbs and set the pilot screws to 2.5 as a starting point am i missing anything else?

 

oh and i checked the rear brake for delamination; all is well and the shoes are intact

 

sounds good to me. Just make sure your battery has a good charge and try to crank that puppy up. Good luck.

 

Thanks! Ill keep you all updated and let you know the what happens next

 

Well the bike will start up and idle for a little bit then dies, I'm thinkin I need to take another look at the carb internals...the idle screw is all the way in and it still won't idle on its own I just have to give it a hair of throttle, the pilot screws were all set to 2.5 turns out, running pods and open headers with stock jets I may have to back the screws out a lot more, not sure gonna test this later this week..any suggestions are more then welcome, thanks for the help guys

 

sounds like you might just need to do a better job bench synching. I had the opposite problem when I did mine. I had the butterflies opened up a little too much after bench synching and my idle was WAY too high. It let me get it running though, so I just adjusted from there and then all was good. I still have some tweaking to do get the mixture right, but I'm stuck out of town all week, so it has to wait....

 

I guess ill redo the bench synch and let you guys know how it goes ^^

 

while they are off you might as well crack them open and give them another good cleaning.

 

2.5 turns out is lean for a new stock bike. With pods and open headers you should expect to idle for a little bit then die, from a lean condition. If it works better with choke, you know you are way lean. Back them out to 3.5 (if not more). It will run a little rich just fine, though if you are rich with pods and open headers and stock carbs you may have the Miraculous XJ.

 

When I started mine last week I had the airbox disconnected, but stock carbs and exhaust at 2.5 turns out and I looked to be lean. I'm going to hook up the airbox when I get home and go to 3.5 turns out and see how the plugs look. Does that sound like a good plan day7a1?

 

Sounds like a plan. Let us know!

Re-bench syncing didn't sound like a bad idea given what you said about the idle screw being all the way in, but you also have some unmetered pilot ports giving fuel at some more open butterfly settings. That MAY be giving enough fuel to give the symptoms you are experiencing. Give yourself some extra pilot richness first, if it doesn't work try the bench syncing again.

 

I guess ill redo the bench synch and let you guys know how it goes ^^

 

So I finally got a chance to put some time into the bike tonight. Ended up charging the battery over night last night, just to be sure I have a nice full charge on it. But as far as today went I replaced the inline fuel filter aswell as installed an on/off switch due to the petcock being broke :/ I didn't notice until tonight that the vaccum line that's supposed to come off the petcock to the carbs has never been hooked up, however all the vac ports on the carb boots are capped, would this cause there to be no fuel being fed to the carbs?
Also I ended up pulling the carb rack to do some more cleaning, I relized thatt when I cleaned them before that I had actually forgotten to pull the floats and all the little pieces to clean the little screens, turns out a couple off them had a thin film of clear crap over them, so hopefully since they're all clean now should clear up some of my idle issues.
Once I finished up cleaning the bowels I redid a bench sync and got all the butterflies to show a small sliver of light I'm feeling a little more confident this time around, all I think needed now to have it running somewhat decent is figure out that small issue with the vac line and petcock, or at least I hope.

 

Also I forgot to mention that after replacing the inline filter, even with the petcock on pri that the fuel did not want to flow and fill the line and filter, however when id remove the line and leave it open on pri it'd dump everywhere...that was another reason I pulled the carbs was the clean the fuel delivery passage, I know its not clogged for sure as of now because while spraying carb cleaner into the oriface of the carb furthest from where the line connects (carb #4?) There is a steady stream of clear carb cleanewr coming out....just figured this might help with diagnosing my issue. Thanks for all the help thus far guys, this forum is by far the most helpful and friendly I have been on thus far!!

 

So I've come to the simple fact the carbs need to be rejetted for sure for the bike to even idle correctly...right now I have the pilot screws turned around 8 turns out (yes, I know a ton) and its still running super lean, verified this with the choke test...so ill be ordering some new jets here shortly and ill let you guys know the progress along the way, also anyone know where I can fiind a complete wiring diagram? I did some searchiing and could only find a diagram with the bare minmum? Thanks again guys!