Remounting the Carb Rack issue

First off, I want to say thanks for all the carb cleaning articles- made my job EASY.

I've take the carb rack off my bike, cleaned it maticulously, and now I can't get the dang thing back on the bike. I slipped the carb rack out of the boots on the intake manifolds, and now getting all 4 carbs back into these boots is proving very difficult. Is there a trick?

I thought of using a ratchet strap wrapped around the engine to put pressure on the middle of the rack (#2 and #3), then wrestle the edges in (#1 and #4), but figured I'd better ask if there is an easier way.


(I got through the 'harder' cleaning process so easily, and now I'm stumped on what should be 'easier' part.... typical )
TIA!

 

spray wd 40 in the boots start the bottom of the carbs in the boots then twist them while pushing like heck. your boots are getting dried out and hard. ive herd of people heating the boots with a hair dryer and to be honest ive done the ratchet strap thing start the bottom of the carbs first tighten the strap then push the top hopefully it will work

 

spray wd 40 in the boots start the bottom of the carbs in the boots then twist them while pushing like heck. your boots are getting dried out and hard. ive herd of people heating the boots with a hair dryer and to be honest ive done the ratchet strap thing start the bottom of the carbs first tighten the strap then push the top hopefully it will work

 

I'll try some wd-40 to lube them up. I've got a heat gun as well, so maybe I'll heat them up a bit- hadn't thought of that!

The more I look at routing the ratchet strap I'm thinking that may not be a good idea.... I'l try the lube+heat first and if that doesn't work, I'll try the strap.

thanks man!!

 

i use silicone grease on the carb boots, the carbs will go in easy and the silicone conditions the rubber so it will remain flexible, it will also help to seal the joint. silicone spray lube would also work. silicone grease is usually sold as brake grease.

wd-40 will probably work too in the short term but isn't technically a lubing product and in fact is named for its water displacing qualities so it's possible it may actually dry out the rubber and cause and/or exacerbate premature cracking/failure in the long term.

cheers,

Trev

 

Where did you find the links to cleaning the carbs, could you post one or two for me? Thanks.

 

I second the silicon - I use it on all rubber parts before assembling.

 

I use a ratchet strap, horizontal, hooked on to the frame (gussets) in front of the engine, straps around the carbs on the bracket (idle screw) and a bit of lube.
Easy breezy, it will pull the back end off the rack down a bit but just "ratchet" a bit push a bit and done

 

I have three Maxim Xs and have done the carb clean job on each of them.

The easiest way to get the carbs back with the airbox boots seated properly is to remove the socket bolts from the carb manifolds at the cylinder head.

The first time I did this, I was worried about the stories I read online saying how easily the bolts snapped off in the cylinder head. Obviously this would be a disaster.

However three bikes and 24 bolts later, though a bit corroded, they all came out without difficulty.

A bit of copper grease on reassembly means they can be taken off easily next time.

 

I use a little silicone grease also. Sometimes a block of wood on the back of the carb rack and a little pressure with a pry bar and they pop in.

 

A Hardwood Hammer Handle make the job simple.

Be sure to secure the Cable Hook-up from be flopped-down ... before seating the Rack in the Manifolds.

Wipe the Inside of the Manifolds with some Marvel Mystery Oil
Wipe the Carb Intake Necks with soma Marvel, too.

Pry the Carbs into the Manifolds using the Hammer Handle and nothing gets marred or scratched.

Be sure to tie the Cable Hook-up Linkage to the Choke Rod so the Carbs won't have to be removed to get the Cable hook-up out from under the Head.

 

maybe a 2x4 would work better.

 

I used a little lithium grease (all I had), and used the strap method. I went across the carbs, left to right, and used soft straps and a ratchet strap. I wrestled it a little, but with the tension from the strap she popped right back in.

THanks for all the replies!! Now on to syncing and tuning (she does run )

 

After lots of Practice , Rick's idea of the Hammer Handle has turned out to be the best solution for me, A little WD-40 sprayed around the boots, i line the carb up as best i can, then slide the hammer handle behind it, after giving it a little pressure everything slides into place.

I would have to say the hammer handle works best IMO, the 2x4 was to big to fit in the spots that i needed it.

I am able to put my carb's back on in just a few minutes, thats including the Airbox boots attached as well.

 

I use dielectric grease on mine. A little dab'l-do-ya, smear it around the carb edges, enough to feel but not really see. No prying required, and it's easy to remove when you need to do anything down the road.

 

I am a fan of form and it's all in the wrist.
I straddle the bike with my nose directly over the intake boots area.
Left hand on #1 carb and right hand on #4 carbs. I slip the bottom lip of the
Carbs in first altogether and shimmy slide, shimmy slide the dudes in with a forward motion.
I hopr this helps.

 

That's how I do it, BillB. Slow and steady is the key. Don't try to force them in. Steady even pressure and the tiny rubber lips will slowly expand and slide over the ends of the carbs, then you're golden.

Dave Fox

 

If the intake boots won't expand, I use a heat gun to soften them up, I've heard other people use a hair dryer.

Just a couple seconds on each boot and viola they slip right in.