Good idea to flush the crankcase after gas sitting in pan?

Couldn't find a good answer, so I am going to ask. Should I pour some motor oil in the case and let it circulate it and dump it again? Never ran into this issue on a car, so not sure. Should I reuse the old filter or will the new filter be ok?

Oh and any quick points on getting the boots back out of the air box with the carbs on? I can get them half out, but when I rotate them to try to get them fully out, they keep popping in.

Bike is almost done!

 

Go ahead and dump a quart of the cheap stuff in it while the drainplug is out. Fill her up with some more of the cheap stuff and warm her up. After that I would drain it all back out and put some good oil in and run it about 100 miles

 

Go ahead and run cheap oil in for 100 miles or so then change oil and filer. Did you fix the carbs so the gas won't get in the oil again?
Did yor remove the bolts holding the airbox to the frame so you can slide it back? It will give you a little more room. You usually don't have to remove the air inlet tubes to get the carbs out if you unbolt the airbox to slide it back.

 

well i cleanup up the carbs and replaced the innards, so i am hoping it is all honky dory. Did the clunk and bech sync and all that good stuff. I had the airbox loosened but it wasnt seeming to help. Ill loose it off again and see if a second attempt will do the trick. Getting dark here the pressure is on!

 

You need to know that your vacuum operated petcock isn't shutting off fully, as well as a needle/seat problem on at least 1 carb, and the temporary fix is a cheap, $5.00 (8 Canadian) lawnmower fuel shut-off valve.

You could use a paper fuel filter as well.

A nifty tool to make for the air boots, is a piece of car antennae, bent over at 90* for the last inch.

While your tools are out, check your rear brake shoes.

 

Re: Good idea to flush the crankcase after gas sitting in pa

I recently acquired an 82 seca 550. First time I tried to start it,,same result. It did start and run but quickly started loading up and backfiring. Found the number3 carb missing the pilot jet. Gas in airbox, exhaust, and crankcase. Was given these instructions by a mechanic.
DRAIN completely. Gently blow gas out of oil filter with compressed air. Put 3 full quarts of 10w/30 wet clutch type 4 stroke oil instead of 2.6 in. Remove spark plugs and use fully charged battery to crank the starter long enough to get the starter warm, not HOT. Drain completely and replace filter. Refill 2.6 quarts 10w/40.

 

get your worst old phillips screwdriver and grind the point nice and round sand off any sharp edges and use that to poke and pry the boots out of the box
the carb end needs a cloths hanger or a welding rod with a 90 bent on the end about 1/2 inch to flip the boot over the end of the carb

 

Already have a inline gas filter, rebuilt petcock, it is not leaking. Brakes were checked a while ago.

Wasn't able to get the boots on. Though I did try to give her a start. Would not kick over. I am wondering how long a battery can sit before getting weak. This was a brand new fully charged battery end of June.

One other thing I have noticed is the blinkers come on but only blink once and than stay solid.

A little peeved it wouldn't crank over as it would before I got the carbs tore apart.
Sounds like I got to go out and get a trickle charger.

 

you've got a drain on the battery.

i've never bothered with a trickle charger in the winter time. whatever bike i have at the time is usually parked by middle of october u ntill late march early april before it's fired up again. at which point they usually take a little cranking but always fire up.

i only had to charge the battery up one time to fire it up in april. but that battery was 6 years old. and got replaced soon afterwards.

as far as oil goes. my very first car was a 76 vega with a brand new motor. it was winter time when i first got her. and she was a bear to start up. and always almost died before taking off when starting from a dead stop. always had to jump start her as the battery would die from all the morning cranking. changed the battery. starter didn't last long. even changed the points and plugs. last thing i did was change the oil. drove it to work and back. 23 miles. the last light i hit before home. the car actually took off. and the next morning. it fired right up. never had a problem after that.

who woulda thunk fresh oil would be the answer to all my problems. and it took 23 miles to circulate through the entire engine.

guess the gal i bought it from put in a new motor and never bother to change the oil. if i remember right. she put 15k miles on that new engine.

 

Ok, well good news! I didn't want to sleep without it running so went out to give it another go.

It does start!

Actually I am surprised it runs pretty darn well! Silly me, I didn't open the choke all the way, did that and it kicked right over! Adjusted the idle screw to get a decent idle once it warmed up. (surprised how much it took off when it warmed up!)

Blinkers work like they should too!

So, do I have it right? Get a good baseline with the idle screw, than get the carb adjust screws to max rev, then back off the idle screw?

Now I just have to get those boots on, button up the side covers and I can ride!

 

Well I don't know what it is about these, but I can't get them to come back out. Hurt my hand pretty good jamming it into the airbox trying to push them out from inside.

Anyone from Kitchener Waterloo able to give me a hand? The pressure is on for me as my license runs out on the 2nd and I have to do my M2 before than.

 

there is a bolt you loosen up. and the airbox will slide back enough to get the boots in and out. saves 2 hours on a 5 minute job. LOL.

 

Re: Good idea to flush the crankcase after gas sitting in pa

I HAVE loosened off the airbox. It is not helping me. AT ALL. I blame my large hands and inexperience. :evil: