My friend just died

I have owned my Maxim X 750 for 23 years. It did not run well last week when I insured it, I was hoping it may be the carbs. I did a compression test and got these results: 60,20,100,120. :cry:
So the bike is dead for now, it will no longer start. It was like putting down a pet today when I removed the insurance. So that brings me to your forum. I will either sell the bike as is, part it out on Ebay or take some time removing the head to see what is really wrong.
My question is this. How hard is it to remove the head? Can it be done with the motor in place. I know how hard it is to remove the carbs, I have done that at least 2x. Don't want to do them again....so just what is the proceedure for removing the whole head. Any input from those who have done this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The bike has other issues I have lived with as long as it ran well, but this could be the end of its life. The wiring harness has been deteriorating starting with the heat guage, then the tach, now the right turn signal.

 

Forgiven, what is the history on the bike? Miles? Did it sit for a while?
The head can be removed with the motor in. It would be a very good idea to get your hands on a manual. They are cheap and ever so useful. Any work you might need to do is not terribly complicated, you most likely will be able to bring your "friend" back to life.

 

I have no experience with the X, but I would start with a valve clearance check, then various head gasket tests.

Your friend might just be in a coma.

 

Did you test the comp' with the throttle wide open, air filter removed & a fully charged battery? Test again, as described with a tablespoon of motor oil in each jug, post the results dry & wet, we can tell a lot about the state of the mill this way.

 

not trying to steal wizards thunder, but elaborating.
DRY TEST.
1. fully charged battery.
2. remove all spark plugs.
3. remove air filter.
4. comp test with throttle wide open.
5. record each reading.

WET TEST.
as above but this time add a table spoon of engine oil to each cylinder as you retest it. this will tell us if you have a head problem or worn rings.
your readings should go up a small percentage but if you have a major increase then the news will not be what you want to hear.

if you are not to mechanicaly inlined you could do a heart transplant and fit a running engine and keep your friend going .

just some food fore thought

 

I have owned my Maxim X 750 for 23 years. It did not run well last week when I insured it, I was hoping it may be the carbs. I did a compression test and got these results: 60,20,100,120. :cry:
So the bike is dead for now, it will no longer start. It was like putting down a pet today when I removed the insurance. So that brings me to your forum. I will either sell the bike as is, part it out on Ebay or take some time removing the head to see what is really wrong.
My question is this. How hard is it to remove the head? Can it be done with the motor in place. I know how hard it is to remove the carbs, I have done that at least 2x. Don't want to do them again....so just what is the proceedure for removing the whole head. Any input from those who have done this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The bike has other issues I have lived with as long as it ran well, but this could be the end of its life. The wiring harness has been deteriorating starting with the heat guage, then the tach, now the right turn signal.

 

It's an "X" model, right?

Were the valves EVER adjusted? If not, you may simply need to do a valve adjustment. I would certainly do that, and then another compression test, before deciding it's dead.

Valve adjustment on an "X" requires camshaft removal, which is why it is often completely ignored.

Since you'd have to pull the cams to pull the head anyway, why not start there?

Simply correcting some long-overlooked maintenance could be all that it needs.

 

Maxim X is a yes. I did the valves at the first recommended service, yes it is due for that again. However I know this bike well and it is definately broken. I need to at least pull the head off of it. I am looking for an answer to my question so that I perhaps can start doing that. Thanks.

 

You will need a manual; it's not difficult, it is kind of tricky, especially reassembly.

 

If I pull it apart I will get someone else to re-assemble it. I had the dealer do the valve adjustments last time. I can do a carefull dis-assembly but will not attempt to get it back together. Is there anyone here who has taken the head off of a Maxim X? I'd like to hear from you.

 

If you can take it apart you can put it back together is my motto. Especially with the help of this forum. The hard part imo would be the cam assembly which you already did when you adj. valve clearance. Take pics and keep things organized.
Did you try a "wet" compression test? Any obvious leaks on the cylinders?
Wiring harnes is $80 (xj750-X)from fleabay.
Or make ur own and cut all the bs

 

I did mention that the dealer did the valve adjustment. Each person has their limitations in abilities and resources. Re-assembling would require a painstaking adjustment of the valves, having a shim kit with varing sizes, and knowing exactly how to set the cams. I am not comfortable with setting the valves.
You are right that a wet test is in order, I may do that today. Due to how the motor sounded when it last ran I am quite sure I have valve problems. There was no blue exhaust and the problem came on very quickly thus almost ruling out ring problems.
So far my main question has not been answered. Can the head be removed without removing the motor from the bike? Has anyone here done that on this bike?

 

Remove spark plugs 'really'

 

Whoo-hoo-hoo, look who knows so much.
It just so happens that your friend here is only MOSTLY dead.

There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead.

Mostly dead is slightly alive. With all dead, well, with all dead there's usually only one thing you can do.

What's that?

Burn the Title and sell the whole thing "AS IS" On Ebay.

(Excerpted from "The Princess Bride)

ONLY ---> "Mostly Dead.

It might be as simple as a Head Gasket.
You might need a Valve Job.
I doubt you have to get into the Lower-end ...
Do a WET Compression Test.
Report.

Get the Factory Service Manual even if it means doing business with the Criminals who are responsible for the XJCD.
Those Criminals Publish COMPLETE Workshop Manuals.
You need a Manual. Period. Don't ask; don't tell.

Cylinder Head Removal.
Study it for a couple of hours so that when you actually put a tool on the Bike you'll be less anxious about it.

Take the Head OFF.
Bring the HEAD to a Machine Shop and order the Full Monte.
Hand them a Bag with New Valve Seals and let them be.

Clean everything free of dust dirt and grime as you await the return of the HEAD.

Let's make an ass out of you and me and assume its the Gasket or the Valves.
De-Carbon the Piston Crowns.
That's a nice chore to do while you are waiting for Parts to call and tell you the Head Gasket is in and the Cylinder Head is as good as new.

Who says Crime don't pay.
Those Pirates selling the XJCD are depending on a guy like you.
It's a deal you can't refuse.

 

Love the Miracle Max quote Rick. I thought *I* was the only one who quoted that movie. *Rolls Eyes*

 

Just a point to note: with low compression it could also be the piston rings. 23 years of use you'd think that maybe the rings might be quite worn. Is the engine blowing smoke, using oil in large quantities? If so, I'd check the rings and replace while the head is off.

Be ever so frustrating getting the head reconditioned, popping everything back together only to find that the compression is still not right.

My 900 was around 22 years old when I changed the rings and honestly, it was almost like a new engine afterwards. And Rick's right...cleaning the carbon off the pistons is an exercise while you're waiting for other jobs to be finished. I had the pistons out and removed from the con rods; there was even carbon build up in all the oil flow holes.

Winter here downunder. Cool, wet, windy. But Spring just around the corner and a dozen summer rides on the agenda ;-)

 

That is the idea of doing the wet & dry comp' tests, Red, it will point you in the right direction, i.e. valves or rings / bores.

 

Merging topics.

 

Ok here is an update. I do appreciate opinions and a soft kick to the rear at times. The wet test results: 240,240,260,270
What I found was deplorable. About 9 years ago was the last time I had the carbs off. I found 2 of my clamps were loose and the rubber grommets to the air box are all but petrified...very hard rubber now. It looks like I didn't get those 2 on properly the last time I installed them.
So what had happened is a bit of dirt has gotten in over the years and scored 1 of the cylinders and wore the other down a bit. I am very annoyed at myself for allowing that to happen. Lesson learned: don't assume rubber parts stay soft, they don't over time.
I will get the cylinders off next and see what the pistons/rings look like, and go from there. A good look at the valves is in order also.