Full on wiring orgy questions

I'm at the point where I haven't even bothered messing with my bike for two months, as I dread this next project so much.

I've got the following to do:

R6 MC. I need to buy stainless lines and a double banjo bolt. But that won't be too hard. I do need to figure out how I'm going to mount the resevoir though. any ideas for a plastic resevoir?

Cafe headlight bucket with attached signals. need to mount and wire this. the signals are 3 wire, while the ones on the bike are two. How would I go about doing this one?

And my real fear- wiring my xs650 gauges. I have the ones from mikexs650, with the ignition pulse tach and the speedo that has a single light for both signals, and the oil light (did we ever figure out how to get that to work properly?)

I need the diagram some member did with the wires highlighted that I need to splice for pretty much everything. I don't have a wiring color diagram.

Also, I'm pretty sure I know what I need to do for my signals. (the 750 seca has two separate lights for the signals, one on either side of the bike. The new speedo I have has a single light indicating the signals are on) I need two diodes, correct? basically a one-way electrical path. I simply solder them into a Y configuration. Does anyone know what amp/voltage I need?

I'm really tired of just sitting and staring at my bike. I bought an Aprilia RSV 1000 mille, but want something a little less violent and punishing to ride, :lol:

 

i mounted my reservoir on the top bolt that holds the mc/lever with a small strip of metal

as far as i know signals with three wires are required in some states. you can wire them to be on all the time and blink when you want to blink.

i think you can find a colour diagram on the web. i dont have a link to post right now, sorry.

for the rest of the electrics, i tossed everything but the ignition/charge circuits, then took the scrap wires to wire head and taillights. horn and a starter button. and the key switch. all the rest is gone, i have no gauges or blinkers.

 

the cafe setup 3rd wire is a ground wire the other lights dont require it because they were mounted to the frame.

 

that makes sense too

 

I'm using a R6 master cylinder and still have the original reservoir bouncing around attached by the hose. I have a custom reservoir

On its way, and will post pics in my project thread when it arrives.

As for the wiring, it depends on your confidence level. I stripped my harness right back and instead of jumpering the old gauge wiring, I removed it and neatened it up. Removed the side stand switch, kept the neutral clutch starter lockout, and added a relay for the headlights. Also used a electronic flasher unit so I could add LED indicators later if I decided to.

 

I would prefer not stripping back the harness. I will be making my own plugs, however.

That's an awesome resevoir! Let me know how you like it when you get it, and where to get one!

Does anyone have that wiring diagram for the gauges?

And the ground makes perfect sense. They aren't grounded elsewhere.

 

Unless I'm wrong...

You should be able to wire you 3wire blinkers on a 2wire bike as follows.

Figure out which wire is ground, low and high intensity.
Wire ground and High as normal to the previous blinker wire.
Wire the low intensity to the low intensity tail light wire, so it will always be on just like your tail light.
If this works like I think it should, you will have blinkers as running lights (rears legally should be RED in this case and amber in front), and when you blink they should blink on the high intensity setting.
But I could be wrong and/or have the high/low suggestion I gave you backwards.

 

Anyone have an answer to my diode issue?

 

1a rectifier diode should work. I did the same with my cluster wires after switching to LEDs.

 

My aftermarket speedo has one indicator light for the turn signal. I went to radioshack and bought two diodes there don't need much the light only pulls a small amount of power. You need a diode that can control 13 volts and also be able to handle 2 amps.

 

Awesome. I spent a couple hours searching and found a wiring diagram to use, so I'll get to soldering tonight!

 

you have 2 wires for the turn signals green and brown in a maxim book
the indicator light has 2 wires (getting a picture here?) hook one to the green the other to brown
no diode

 

You sure? wouldn't it have ground and hot for simply one input if there's only one light?

Let me go look.

*edit* yep, just a ground and a hot.They need to be spliced.

God I wish I hadn't started with a bike made from bits.. Thank god the guy at least used the right color wires. He spliced the ground for the left hand turn signal into the ground for the fog lamp. WTF.

 

It would need a diode built into the system somewhere, without them you would end up with emergency flashers

 

Oh ye of little faith, look at the drawing for a 650

 

It's irrelevant where the original wiring is. the problem comes from having right (green) and left (brown) being wired together. If I hit left, power would flow back and into the right, turning all my hazards on (I already confirmed this one :lol: )

This is true on a system where each side has its own light (a light indicating left, and a separate one indicating right) but this gauge has a single light indicating both, so when I hit one side, it has to allow power into the light to illuminate it on the gauge, without letting it flow over to the other side. Hence, the diode.

I'll take some pictures when I put it all together permanently. Right now I'm just cleaning up the awful wiring from the PO's hackjob.

 

Poprider, you're on the right track. You need 2 1a rectifiers to prevent the signal from flowing back to the other side from the instrument bulb.

Add the rectifiers to each side (Gr and B) then solder them together and have them flow into the one instrument bulb, the remaining wire from the bulb will go to ground.

Ensure that you point the rectifiers in the correct direction so that they work in restricting the flow of electricity to only one way.

 

well since nobody bothered to look at a 650 drawing i'll try to explain it
put on left ts, left circuit is 2 25 watt bulbs in parallel about 3.1 ohms
that's about 3.9 amps or about 1.8 amps each bulb
the right circuit is the same except with a 5 watt bulb in series that comes out to about 34.5 ohms and about .35 amps then the .35 amps splits between the 2 right ts bulbs and each one gets about .17 amps and the indicator bulb gets .34 amps
so what's that mean
the left bulbs get 12 volts and 1.8 amps....they light up !
the indicator bulb gets 12 volts and .35 amps....it lights up !
the right ts bulbs get something less than 12 volts and .17 amps
and they don't light up !
and there's not a diode anywhere in sight

 

that makes perfect sense. Except for the fact that when I flicked on my left -or- right without the diodes, all four lit up.

Maybe the 750 seca has a differen't setup from the 650.

OR, maybe the hackjob wiring from the PO made it that way.

Either or, I needed the diodes, they cost me about one dollar at radio shack, and took two minutes to install.

Since I didn't solder it yet, I took it all apart and just played with it.

connecting the signal light ground (the one on the gauge) to a generic ground, and then putting the two hot wires together, and attaching them to the gauge light, both back signals lit up (I don't have fronts installed yet, they're attached to the cafe bucket.

Adding both diodes in, only one lights up at a time, just like I expected (and others have experienced, swapping to these gauges)

So, permanently soldered in the diodes, heat shrunk/electrical taped them. Time to wire up the oil pressure light, neutral switch, and high beam light.

 

So- indicators done, neutral switch done. I think the battery lost all charge, so it won't illuminate the gauges, :lol: so now I get to wait with it on the trickle charger until I can play with the rest of the stuff.


How the hell does the headlight wire in? It's black, yellow, dark green. But I can't find the stupid dark green line! I think the PO messed up the coloring and used normal green. But I still can't get it to light up. Is the fact that I'm using an H4 bulb maybe causing a problem?

Or, potentially, do I need to wire in the headlight AND the high beam light for it all to work?

Would it help if I just cut the heat shrink holding the harness together and picked through the wires by hand? I could trim back the harness doing that, too...

Does the oil warning light come on when you flick the key on?

The brake switch has me totally stumped, as well. will any hot lead and ground, connected to the posts on my brake lever switch work for my taillights?

 

I'm still looking for what I need to do for the headlight. What colors does the headlight use? I no longer have the stock one to compare, and my wiring diagram is too fuzzy to understand.

Also, what colors does the oil sensor use?

 

XJ750RJ: headlight wires are Yellow/Green stripe, Green/Red stripe, Black. All are routed out of the instrument cluster to the headlight assembly. If you are sticking with the stock gauges, you will need to maintain this routing. If you are converting, you can pull the high beam off of the Yellow wire from the headlight switch (using the Red/Black wire for common) and the Green wire for low (again using the Red/Black for common).
My oil light comes on when I turn on the key, it is a normal part of the gauge's power on self test.
Oil sensor uses Black/Red with the sensor connecting to the chassis to complete the circuit.

 

AWESOME. thanks for all that.

So I am switching gauges. Can I just use yellow off the switch for high beam both on the headlight and the indicator light on my new gauge, and green for low?

This circuit is confusing me, lol.


So black/red is all I need connected to my gauge specifically, with any old ground?


*edit*

I got blue/yellow/ground to work... briefly. now it won't again. I think my battery may be just fubar. It's on a trickle charger, but was just sitting, unattended for about six months.