Raising footpegs

Just a thought I was having the other day, is there any company that makes a plate that I could bolt on and fit the stock pegs/lever/shifter assembly too that would set the pegs higher?

I've been more consistently dragging my pegs- I don't feel like I am being too aggressive, the corners are still smooth and steady... just seems that the pegs are too low...

 

Would help to know what you ride...

 

94 Seca 2- not sure why that was lost from my post lol

 

if your dragging your pipes in the corners. i don't think it's the pegs.

maybe post a pic for all to see so suggestions can be made.

 

No? No pipes dragging? Perhaps you mis-read, i am dragging the pegs, I've felt it plenty of times right under my foot grinding away, the metal is filed down pretty well now and I dont wanna destroy the aluminum pegs all together, I figure raising them somehow would solve the problem..

 

It means you're ready for an R6.

 

If you are leaning that Bike over far-enough to scrape the footpegs, ... I wouldn't worry about moving the footpegs.

The Geometry of how far you can lean-over the Bike has all been worked-out before they put the footpegs on.

If you're leaning-over and scraping the peg ... what are you doing to keep your knee of the pavement?

Bikes leaned-over that far are usually equipped with Nylon Sacrificial Sliders, Case Guards and Skid Bars.
To defeat GRAVITY and not topple-over you pretty-much need to be going at least 70. (Actually, ... closer to 80, I'd guess.)

A past time many engage in we like to call: Knee-draggin'!

 

You could get a pair of pegs like these from a '83 Z1000 & bolt them through the top hole of the bracket.

 

Do a search for Raask or Tarozzi rearsets. And be prepaired to shell out cash.
I grind the pegs really easy on my Seca 400, 600 (FJ) and even my highly modified 85' FZ 750 (yep, been busy riding it to post pics... will get to that later!) I've been fantasizing about the FZ's rearset upgrade for a bit, but $300.00 is a steep price to pay. For some reason tho I grind the toes on my boots before my pegs if I'm not careful. Doesn't make sense, I'm 5'7" and an 8 1/2 boot.... not a whole lot of foot to get in the way!
Wiz's idea is actually really awsome and worth looking into. Keep in mind tho that changing the peg height will also change the distance to the shift/brake linkages. For me, that's already an issue on the shifting side as I'm already using the tips of my toes to shift.

 

This is all fantastic information,

Yeh the R6 was considered but don't feel like I should jump to something that extreme yet...

Was considering a newer SV 650- but :/ not sure if its worth it as itll likely be similar...(comments?)

I will consider the Z1000 idea, I was curious if any of the other bikes had a similar setup- thanks for that! - how much higher would the Z1000 pegs be? ==== Scratch that- just realized those are ONLY pegs, not the whole placement system...

I also did find Raask and Tarozzi rearsets and yes they are expensive, hard to find, and frankly I think making my own would be easier. The only complicated part would be the shift linkage but i think i could fix that with just some threaded bolt segment from the hardware shop

I think just a couple plates with holes drilled in the proper pattern- bolted on to the stock frame setup would allow me to bolt the stock sets wherever I wanted, If I do this with my friend I will certainly post back here with the results...

THANKS again for the information here!

Oh- and 70-80 mph, try 35 in a tight 90 degree corner, its really no that hard on these bikes, I was doing it on my ninja 250 (although that was far less stable i must say, the added power from the 600 helps you through the corner better) Just hit it and roll on the gas (as they say)...

I often sit about half ass on seat trying to keep the ear to mirror plan body parallel with the bike but off its center... I don't often have a knee down simply because stretching my body like that feels awkward, the leg on the OUTSIDE of the corner almost has to be stuck out- which looks and feels weird...

 

Hold on a sec-

I absolutely STRAFE corners and rarely drag the pegs on either of my 550 Secas (although a boot toe does touch occasionally.)

I'm wondering if you have a ride height issue.

How many miles on the bike?
How much do you weigh? (No offense, it matters.)

here's my thinking: The stock fork springs that the earlier XJs were equipped with often took a serious SAG after a few thousand miles. If you're "above average" (or even average for that matter) weight-wise, and/or the bike has more than say, 15K or so on it, the fork springs (and rear shock) may be compressing so much with just you on the bike so as to compromise the ride height.

Sit on the bike; then put both feet on the ground and stand up. Sit back down. How much suspension travel gets used up with just you sitting on it?

You might need to fit a new set of Progressive Suspension fork springs and crank the rear preload up a bit (or a lot...)

Or just take it a little easier on the street.

 

Body position, Get your body off the bike to stand the bike up more. You'll gain a lot of clearance, it wont cost you a cent, and it's safer.

With your bike's ergo's you wont be able to pull this off, but you can definitely improve your situation.

(me on my kawi)

 

I have been wondering about this- I can't say the sus. travels to far when sitting / standing - it has 20k miles on it so yeh it might be off.

I only weigh 160-170lb so I can't imagine that is too big of an issue.. Perhaps I will see about the adjustment on the rear shock...

At least its not like my friends buel blast- that things is ridiculously low, like 2" or so of clearance...

EDIT:
Forgot to mention, gonna have a machine shop look at this today, local guy who works on Yamaha for the past 30 years recommended that I just have a shop cut a couple plates and drill holes in them in the proper positions... then It could be adjustable...

 

Usually pivoted parts like pegs are kind of there to give you a tactile warning before you start dragging hard parts that can actually lever you off the road and wipe you out....

Exception, as I found out, was my 800 Intruder, for some reason they designed them so the peg barcket, which runs under the motor and frame, digs in FIRST...and the first time I really turned hard right to attack a highway entrance ramp, it gratched into the ground and levered my rear wheel off the ground enough to lose traction and put me in an uncomfortable countersteered power slide momentarily...

I don't know if I'd wanna lose that early warning, after seeing the alternative...

 

There aren't any other low parts in a corner on this bike... just the pegs... if they were in a different position i would be clear all together... for much safer cornering imo

 

pcguru, I"m going to disagree with you, I don't think there is much of a point in leaning these bikes over far enough to scrape the pegs, the suspension and tire profiles are not going to give you a lot of forgivness leaning it over that far. See my recommendation above about body position, it will make for far safer cornering IMO

 

do you have this same problem in the rain ?

 

Get a friend to help you measure your suspension sag as you sit on the bike. I'm going with "soft springs". (supposed to be an inch ??)

A common, simple fix for the front is to make a one inch spacer that is added to the front spring in the fork tubes.