Tank - Need tips on stripping paint and/or finding painter

I know there are many topics about sealing and probably painting a tank, and I will read those later.

A ) However, how would you suggest I TOTALLY strip the crap paint job on an Ebay tank I just got? Sandblast company? Aircraft remover and elbow grease? Other? NOTE: The inside also needs a full de-rust and seal, but hopefully no pinholes.

B ) Also if I wanted to find a non-friend/family painter, any tips on trying to find one in the yellow pages? Should I look for any old repair/collision shop or try to find one use to painting MCs? There are plenty of collision shops in my area. (Even had 3x cars partially repainted after damage over the years).

I may just rattle can it in spring, but I'm also considering a matching paint job (with minimal design) on a fairing, the tank, and 5 removable panels from my trunk/bags. This bigger project I'd hope to find friend/relative. (Have bro-in-law but he is 3hours away 1 way - But he use to get paid to paint at a repair shop).

 

I would try a heat gun & scraper, paint stripper is messy.

 

ace hardware heavy duty stuff is nasty but works good

 

Strippers like Zip Strip are messy. I have a friend that owns a small machine shop. I went over there and used his bead blaster and cleaned up two tanks. The glass beads were not as harsh on the metal and the original factory paint was alot harder than you would think. But in any case thats what I did.
As far as paint goes. I used an epoxie primer and base coat / clear coat. For body filler I used a product called All Metal. then a very thin layer of plastic filler over that. The part I don't like is that automotive paints have gone up in price over the years and it gets expensive to do this type of paint work on your own. Spray can paint can look just as nice but I feel it does not hold up as long.

 

i blasted mine with walnut shells did a awsome job and finished it off with elbow grease and a bit of fine grade sandpaper and panted it in my own shop but macco will do it for about 80 bucks i think

 

The QUALITY of the Paint Job depends on how well you do the PREP.
The slightest imperfection is going to be magnified when the Paint goes on.

So, you first objective is to PREPARE the Tank for being Painted.
Sand-out every single blemish.
Use Fillers and Compounds to fill the slightest imperfection.

Sand the whole Tank with 380 until you have the Tank ready for PRIMER.

Prime the Tank twice.
Go over the 2nd Coat with LIGHT 380 Dry
Then, again ... with 400 or 600 Wet, ... bringing the Surface out to a smooth "Scratch-free" foundation for the Color.

 

I would concur with MN-Max regarding rattle cans, I have gone through the evolution, brush, can, gravity air & now have found that the quality of the rattle cans have improved beyond all bounds & you can get a very passable finish, colours used to be limited, but now the paint shop can put any colour in a can & it is cheaper.
And Rick is spot on, 'the prep is everything', I will say, though, Rick, I wouldn't go near the job after it had been primed, with anything coarser than 600.

 

Your right about that!

I think I was thinking about putting the finish on the Bondo.

 

Re: Tank - Need tips on stripping paint and/or finding paint

i had great success stripping my tank using a wire wheel on a drill. in fact, the brushed metal look left behind has got me thinking about clear coating it and moving on.......

 

Re: Tank - Need tips on stripping paint and/or finding paint

I've only stripped a tank once - I used Aircraft Cleaner and found it worked really, really well! The one thing that I would say though is respect what the package says about minimum temperature. I used it in early Spring in Ontario (anxious to get it done and on the road!) when it was about 10 degrees Celsius below what the minimum recommended temperature was. I ended up needing to use many more cans than I think I should've needed as it would quickly stop bubbling after I sprayed it on the paint. Keeping it in the sun helped and I eventually resorted to trying to keep it warm with a hairdryer. That helped a lot - but I'm pretty sure if the ambient temperature is high enough it will just eat right through that paint. When it worked, the paint practically just slid of the metal - and most of it was the original, super-thick layers!

Gloves, googles and a mask though!

 

Re: Tank - Need tips on stripping paint and/or finding paint

I had a friend of mine who restores cars who helped me strip and repaint my paint. He recommended Aircraft Stripper and it worked wonders, along with a little paint thinner and a steel brush to clean it up and it was completely stripped to bare steel and ready to prime/paint. Good Luck and wear a mask and do it outside, that stuff is strong.

 

i have painted 2 bikes recently, A Kaw Concours and a Gold Wing. I stripped neither and they both came out great. I agree, the key is in the prep. Be paticular. Get a palm sander and start with like a 120 and then move up to 180, 220, 320 etc. until you have a nice keyed surface for primer. Get a good primer and give it 2 or 3 coats sanding with 600 grit between coats. BE CLEAN!!!!!!!
You can do the color! I have done both of my bikes ( and plan on doing the new Seca) with a 40 dollar Husky gun from Home Depot and compressor.
The Acrylic Enamels you use today are far superior to when i painted cars at 17 with Dupont IMRON.
If you mess up you sand off and do it again. Once you have done one you will want to do more! I can tell you more if you want, but believe me, its not hard. I would help you if you were closer to KC, MO.
Jeff

 

Thanks for tips.

I have a TINY air compressor tank. I don't think it would be good for any size spray painter.

If you look at my other post, my design keeps getting more and more complex/thinner. Gonna need an air brush by the time I'm done designing LOL