Tachometer cable -xj550

Yesterday on the ride home from work my xj started making a strange rattle. It seemed to change with the rpm's so I assumed it was an internal engine problem. When I got home I drained the oil to see if anything metal came out with it.

As I was draining the oil I discovered the tach cable had come unscrewed and was barely sitting in the hole. I removed the cable, cleaned it, greased and reinstalled.

My problem is that since I reinstalled it I'm leaking oil from where the cable screws into the engine. It's not a bad leak, just an annoyance I guess. Any ideas why it would leak now? I know for sure it's tight.

 

BigFitz52 did a picture "How-To" on that part. From memory you need a seal or "O" ring. You could search for the article.

And Welcome to the Site !!

 

Thanks for the welcome. The first picture in th "How-to" looks exactle like my bike. I guess that's one more thing for the winter to-do list.

 

Welcome to your next (and it won't be your last) age-related XJ failure.

BOTH of mine, although almost 20K apart in terms of mileage, started leaking at about the same time. Hence the article.

I think they're conspiring.

 

I've had that same annoying leak for a while myself. Now, it has suddenly grown bigger. Where can one find the proper o-rings (or ones that will work even if not original)

My plan of attack is to replace the tach cable since its broken off inside and the tach is dead. I've had one tach cable break before. When I put it back, I plan on using teflon tape and pipe dope (the kind used by plumbers), high temp variety to stop the leak.

Has anyone tried this before?

 

Apparently you didn't "read up" the thread. Your tach drive has an oil seal IN it and a special D-section o-ring on the outside; you need to replace those, not try to stop the leak with other means. You don't need teflon tape and pipe dope, you need to fix your bike properly.

The how-to that was being talked about above is here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html

Chacal (XJ4Ever, click the logo on the top right in the site banner) carries the correct parts, including the "D" shaped outer o-ring and the proper seal.

I did the how-to because this is a very common failure (again, "read up") and it is completely overlooked in both the factory and aftermarket books.