Carbs Apart Part 2, The Cleanup Progress ^_^

In my previous thread i showed how i was dipping the carbs, I been working on them alot and i wanted to share my progress, New parts are on order so i cant wait!!!!! here is how they look so far. I did all this with a fine wire wheel on my Dremel tool with the flexable attachment.

 

looks good man. Just make sure that you can blow carb cleaner through all the jets and tubes.

 

Looks great! Nice and shiny,,, and clean. Someday I will get mine like that.

Let me be the first to comment on the hopes that your parts you are waiting for are the carb brackets screws and new throttle shaft seals and c-clips etc, etc.

 

Don't fret i have all new seals, seats needles, gaskets all the good stuff on order. i cannot wait to hear my bike roar again.

 

Looks good. while they are apart go ahead and replace those rusted screws on the rack and bowls.

 

How about I bring mine up to you when it gets too cold to ride? They're clean inside, but the outside doesn't look anywhere near as good as that.

 

haha no prob

Holy Crap The screws that hold the rack together are next to impossible to remove, i feel like i broke my fingers squeezing my grippers on the screw heads because no screw driver will work

 

take off the clip on the ends butterfly shaft and have a look at the seals
if they look even a little hard or gooey, change them
if you grip the rack screws with channelocks and a screwdriver dipped in cleanser they come out
you'll want a real JIS screwdriver for the butterfly screws

 

I looked at the seals on the sides, the look to be in good shape

 

Im not quit sure i follow you guys on dipping a screw driver in cleanser and they will come out, can you explain it a little more to me?

 

the grit in that kind of stuff helps the driver not to slip
again a real JIS screwdriver really makes a difference

 

You need to get a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) #2 screwdriver (Chacal or McMaster-Carr have them) first and foremost. The right tool for the job makes a huge difference. I used to bugger up screws left and right...that is until I got the right screwdriver. I find that most hardware on these things will let go gracefully if they encounter the correct screwdriver FIRST. If you have used a standard #2 before hand, all bets are off. I insert the screwdriver and, while applying counterclockwise (or anticlockwise depending on your latitude) torque, rap the end of the handle firmly (hammer, mallet, brick, rock...). I've had this work most of the time, I wish I could say it was 100% but, as the fellow selling me all the thread inserts knows, some fasteners are welded in place. Good luck with your fastener adventures.

 

Thanks again for the info, i got the rack apart fairly easy, seals and o rings are in great shape, this also alows me to clean them better.

 

Well I got a #2 JIS bit and let me tell ya, It works wonderful !!! I only got 2 stubborn ones i cannot get out yet.

 

Kewl. Where did you pick up the JIS screwdriver? Local, or did you have to mail-order for it?

 

I had one in my toolbox, did not even know it was a JIS standard.

 

Talk about falling into good fortune! Glad you got it, where are the screws you are having trouble with and what condition are they in?

 

On the metal bar that holds the rack together, 2 per carb, on one carb i cant get them to budge, there abit stripped and just some surface rust.

 

Would the "phillips" in the Yamaha tool kit be JIS ?? or BS !!

 

I had this same problem with a rack I'm working on last night. Impact driver with the right sized bit and I was on my way again with an undamaged fastener. Cheap investment those impact drivers are.

 

I have the entire rack apart, i msg chacal for info on parts pricing, They seem to be in overall very good shape, one float seat was completely blocked and the rubber tip on the needle was gone, I cannot wait, I took off the pipes today, grinded all the rust off with a wire wheel and painted them with duplicolors 1200F high heat ceramic paint, i hope they hold up, there not smooth pretty but there not rusty ugly anymore either.

 

You got to bake that paint on. Follow the directions on the can.

 

It don't mention anything about baking it on, its just a spray paint can.

 

Oh Yeah? I've used the VHT and the DEI exhaust paint and it had directions for baking it in an over as well as curing it by running the bike for certain lengths of time with cooling off in between.

 

Ill have to check again but i don't remember it saying anything like that.

 

Some Newer Pics.Old needles seats. random.

 

You can bake it by letting the bike warm up gradually, in increments. Let it run for a bit, turn it off, let it run some longer, turn it off, etc.