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First post XJ rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by FlyGp, Dec 12, 2010.

  1. FlyGp

    FlyGp Member

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    Since I have been lurking about in the forum I thought I would finally register and create my first post.

    I rescued a XJ650 from certain rusty death and by using the forum wisdom have started to mend the corrosion cancer.

    Nothing to thrilling so far just started by taking a part off, fixing it and placing it in a tagged storage bag. I figure when the last part is removed and fixed I will have a motorcycle kit ready for reassembly.

    I have attached a photo page of the start stop control switch rework just so this isn’t a bla bla bla post.

    Switch fully disassembled,
    Bead blasted
    Powder coated
    Copper polished
    Parts de-rusted and zinc plated
    New detent 4mm ball from a sacrificed roller skate bearing
    New detent spring from an ink pen 4mm Dia is a popular size, who knew.
    Dielectric grease then reassembly.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks everyone for you contributions to the forum.

    FlyGp
     
  2. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Welcome neighbor.

    A tip:

    That switch housing needs to ground to the handle bar for the start button to work. Powder coat doesn't conduct electricity.

    You're going to want to break the finish where the housing contacts the bars. Same with anything else that you powder coat that needs to ground.
     
  3. FlyGp

    FlyGp Member

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    I saw the button only had one wire but it didn’t register, thanks for the excellent tip.

    FlyGp
     
  4. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    looks like you got skills keep it up glad your aboard lurker
     
  5. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    Nice work there FlyGp.
     
  6. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Hi, FlyGp, welcome, on all my frame off rebuilds I have removed everything, boxed it then refurbed as I went, until this last one & I have done just what you are doing, take a piece off, fix it up, store it & I have found it's less onerous having the bulk off the parts ready to go back on.
    Here's where I'm up to with this one. Wiz.
     
  7. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    no fair wiz, your work is far too nice!!
     
  8. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Nice addition FlyGp, I'm impressed with your work! (you too Wiz, but I'm certain you get that a lot!)
     
  9. FlyGp

    FlyGp Member

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    More parts under the knife

    Disassembled and glass bead blasted all metal parts, Soda blasted the rubber.
    After blasting the core was dipped in black paint so all inside surfaces were coated then baked at 120F after drying normally.
    The spring was blasted then zinc plated.
    The mount was powder coated yellow.
    The pivot pin needs to be replaced with a stainless one.

    FlyGp


    [​IMG]
     
  10. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    Holy Cow! Now that's attention to detail!
    Great work FlyGP.
    IMHO and since you can Zinc plate stuff, Zinc plate the pin... since stainless wont be high tensile. (although I dont know if that pin is hardened... you'd think it might be.)
     
  11. FlyGp

    FlyGp Member

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    cds1984, thanks for the pin strength caution, the original pin was a rivet that I had to drill out to remove. I drilled easily so I am thinking it was low strength material.
    For the replacement I will take cds1984 suggestion and use something strong.

    The gauges were disassembled and all the insect squatters cleaned out.
    bead blasted the steel brackets and PC gloss black.
    Buffed the scratched up chrome plastic with Caswell 6163 compound
    and a loose wheel.

    The black plastic bezel was oxidized to the fogy gray to white on some
    areas, so I meticulously cleaned the part then using acetone on lint free
    cloth re-blackened the part. Let a small amount of acetone nearly
    completely evaporate from the cloth then pat the and gently re-blacken
    the part. The acetone will allow removal of the oxidization by softening
    the plastic surface. Do not rub hard or the texture will be smeared.
    No temporary silicone dressing required.

    I need to put some color on the raised lettering next.

    Anyone have a suggestion on what to do with the faded gauge graphics,
    Maybe someone is making decals.

    What other work do you suggest for the gauges, any known issue I need to fix?

    FlyGp

    [​IMG]
     
  12. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    PM Bigfitz, he knows where to get the dial faces, your work is just tooooo good.
    With the pegs, it's the holes that go oval, if you are going to all that trouble perhaps you should bush them.
     
  13. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    if your going to be blasting things, look into some of the stuff from KG gunkote
    with a air brush you can spray 80/20 acetone / polyurethane, makes that plastic like new
    yellow......?
     
  14. JeffK

    JeffK Well-Known Member

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    Wow guys, all of the above is some very nice work! I have done several bikes and Fly is the only other person that I've heard of using the acetone trick for re-blackening old guage rims, and bezels. I have seen some terrible results from it guys so listen when he tells you to pat it lightly and don't rub hard, otherwise you'll have a smeary mess.

    jeff
     
  15. FlyGp

    FlyGp Member

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    Started working on the ignition switch, I know I can buy a new one for $25 or so but where is the fun and education in that.

    The key was clunky going in and the barrel was difficult to turn, so I suspected that the mechanism was full of crud and corrosion.

    The key hole cover was deformed from missed attempts at getting the key into the lock so the trap door that covers the hole stopped closing completely.

    The brass tumbler disks and all the parts were jammed up with gunk; I suspect that the previous owners put various types of lubricant into the works to keep things moving. The pot metal parts were also swollen with corrosion.

    Disassembly was easer than I expected. I used a piece of tape and as I removed each brass tumbler disk to be polished I would stick the completed part to the tape to keep track of the order to match the cuts in the key.



    The tumbler disk springs are so fine that to me they looked more like blurry objects instead of coil springs (sucks getting old).

    Removing the key entry cover and trap door required bending the indented areas of the cover allowing removal. Under the cover is the trap door another micro spring and hinge pin along with a plastic key guide.

    I flattened the entry cover deformities by placing it between the flat on my vice and a round rod a few taps with a hammer flattened it out so the trap door would seal.

    The tumbler disks were also flattened as forcing the key into the lock combined with the drag of the gunk and corroded parts caused them to have a small dent where the key tooth contacts them. This dent also prevented the disks from retracting flush with the barrel making turning the lock difficult.

    After reassembly the lock works smooth as new.

    [​IMG]

    FlyGp
     
  16. NigeW

    NigeW Member

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    Wow - talk about attention to detail.

    Congrats on what you've done so far - you must have far too much patience.
    Trouble is, if you spend so much time on every little bit, how long is it going to be before we see the finished bike?

    And, now you've set the bar so high, you do realise we will accept nothing short of exemplary.

    Nige
     
  17. BillB

    BillB Active Member

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    Great work, I am IMPRESSED!
     

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