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help with forks

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by apsolus, Dec 13, 2010.

  1. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    im attempting to rebuild the forks they are the type with the airvalve on the top of them. i cant get that bottom bolt out or the dust seals off. ive rebuilt forks before on my fzr's and they were easy but this pair isnt cooperating. anyone got anytips? oh yea i was pushing the fork against the wall putting pressure on that bottom bolt area that just spins trying to break it free cause i dont have any special tools other than compressed air. anyone?
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    This will make you a tool you cna use to fix your Bike and lend-out to others doing theirs.

    Take 1-Meter of 1/2" Steel Rod.
    Grind the ends down to allow you to have someone weld you some Hex Nuts on the Rod at the Ends.

    19mm Nut (or Bolt) on one end, ...
    22mm Nut (or Bolt) at the other ...
    Dress the welds.

    Insert the Tool down the Fork Tube and the Tool will fit the ALLEN HEX Top of the Damper.
    Hold the Damper with the Tool.
    Remove the Bottom Fastener.
     
  3. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    cool im gonna go buy these parts and do this. now what about the dust seal? i cant get em off i broke one of my pics tryin
     
  4. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Dust seal has a lip that goes into a groove in the lower fork tube. They should pretty much just push up. If they're so hard you can't lift them out of the groove with a pick they're useless and you might just as well cut them off (don't damage the inner fork tube).
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You can take a spark plug socket that has a 19mm hex cast onto the bottom of it (like many do) and flip it over so the hex part is the end, and put every extension in your tool box on it.

    Then you don't have to make a special tool.

    Shove your new "very special" tool down the tube and engage the top of the damper rod.

    I've done three sets of Yamaha forks with just such a tool.

    Then it hides in your toolbox again disguised as a spark plug socket and three long 3/8 extensions...

    Use a screwdriver to pop the dust seals out once the forks are apart, but as Carl says, be careful not to tear up the inside of the tube in the process.
     
  6. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    wow good ideas everyone! we got the seals off they were rusted to the forks. also went to homedepot and got long threaded rods nuts and a 19mm bolt head and got em loose that way. super awesome idea fitz thats utter genious our very special tool was right under our noses! we did manage to mangle the fork tubes a bit hopefully some sandpaper will right our wrongs
     
  7. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    Forks are together how much air should I add?
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    None.
    Don't "Add" any.
    Have somebody hold-down the Tail-end to lift the Front Wheel clear of the floor.
    Touch the Pin on the Valve and equalize the Fork with atmosphere.

    You need a Special Pump to add 6psi.

    You only risk Blowing a Seal if you add more than a breath to the Fork.
    You just did the Forks ...

    You don't want to have to do them again.
    Put some Heavy Fork Oil or Hydraulic Jack Fluid in them to have them dampen more effectively.

    Your better-off adding some "Pre-Load" to the Fork Springs than thinking any AIR you add is going to help.
    The AIR is just supposed to keep the Fork Oil from splashing-around.
     
  9. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    are you chewing me out? i saw an air valve on the top so i figured it needed air. you big meanie. ok 6 pounds. its got 17 in it right now which is what the dealer said it needed, they told me its max was 22 psi! we used 15w fork oil hoping that will help out alittle
     
  10. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    The air above the fork oil also acts as a spring. By putting more pressure in it has the effect of increasing the spring rate (more pre load). On the XJs though the air is only intended for fine tuning, the maximum pressure isn't enough to make much difference. ( I'd thought the maximum pressure was more like 17PSI, your service manual will tell you for sure).

    Those springs weren't all that great new, and 25 years or so hasn't made them any better. Rick is correct, if you're going to run poor springs you'd be better served with a spacer than trying to fix them with more air.

    Using a heavier weight oil also won't make up for weak springs. It'll increase damping which mostly will just make the ride harsh.

    If you really want to do it right pop for a set of progressive springs and put the proper weight fork oil in. Progressive springs aren't real pricey, you can get them from Chacal.

    Chacal also sells the service manual. If you don't have one order it with your new springs.
     
  11. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    no im not going for high performance or anyting just making sure its being assembled right. i actually love the soft ride. its a nice change from my sportbikes. well to be on the safe side i drained the air out ill try and figure out just how much it actually needs from more sources to verify then. i did notice that the fork that still had air in it when i was removin them from the bike was alot stiffer than the other fork which had the blow seal and no air. so it does indeed make a difference
     
  12. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    It's a matter of preference then, so long as you don't exceed the maximum.
     
  13. apsolus

    apsolus Member

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    Forks are installed and everything is in good shape thanks guys and gals. Still gotta figure out how to get 10lbs in em though,I guess a digital guage will work
     

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