Break and Rivet Cam Chain Replacement Procedure?

Hello,
I've looked all over this site and the web and can't find a detailed instruction and/or tip(s) for replacing the cam chain via the break and rivet pull through method. Would like to learn of the procedure so I may weigh my options. 1981 XJ550R Seca. Any and all help/links would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

 

Why do you think the camchain needs to be replaced?

How many miles on the bike?

Symptoms/issues?

You're not finding a detailed set of instructions on it because it's rarely required. Whassup?

 

Last time I ran it, it was making an awful racket. When it cooled down the racket subsided, but the cam whine started at 1,500-2,000 RPM instead of 3,000-4,000 RPM. I've previously adjusted the cam tensioner two or three times, when I first acquired the bike last summer, and the whine would come back 5-10 minutes into the ride. It drove me nuts, but I learned to ignore it, but this time it was something different. After a "strong" ride. 27,000 miles on the bike. Had been partially restored when I bought it. Only needed new brake lever and seat hold on strap (used old belt) to pass inspection, so not a beater.

Thanks

 

Didn't notice the racket until parked and idling while checking over after ride.

 

If your cam chain is really shot then you'd need new sprockets too. I'm not sure the sprocket on the crank can be replaced (bike model??).

As bigfitz said, very unusual to have to replace a cam chain. The thing lives in oil, usually outlasts the rest of the engine. Can't imagine cam chain making a whine.

 

Ok, hold on.

The 550s have a true primary chain, the motor drives the gearbox via a Hi-Vo chain. This is hydraulically tensioned, and will make ONE HECK of a racket at idle if your bike isn't idling smoothly. It should go away once you rev the motor, and will get worse once the bike is hot. But it doesn't whine.

I don't think you're hearing cam or camchain whine. If it IS, the first thing to do is pull the valve cover and inspect, not start making assumptions based on sounds.

If it's not the primary chain, it could very well be the TACHOMETER itself. If the tach packs up, it makes this horrible screaming sound that makes you think there's something wrong with the motor. I've had three of them go out on me so far.

I've got a bit of 550 experience, let's work through this. It's not your cam chain. Betcha.

 

Ok, I am actually waiting for a valve shim tool to check/adjust my valves (don't want to pull the valve cover just to look) before I fine sync the carbs. The idle is a bit choppy, more like a cruiser, it smooths out at throttle. I also want to get a colortune, because I think it is rich. The throttle sticks at around 3,000 RPM and have to blip it. The "whine" is a high pitch shrill that is only evident at certain RPMs, no sound higher or lower. I think of it as the vibration of a part hitting a certain frequency of it's material and makes it "sing" kinda like a tuning fork. Ha! Like that one. (Tuning forks in the Yamaha logo) The person that sold it to me knocked money off because he and I thought it might be a top end noise.

 

I'll just update once the valves are checked/adjusted, rich/lean mix tweaked and carbs fine sync'ed. I'll also try to check the tensioner when I pull everything. Thanks!

 

Tach cable, tach drive, tachometer. Disconnect the tach cable from the motor and see what happpens to the whine.

Unless a camchain guide has broken loose (doubtful) I'll bet anything it's not coming from the actual motor. It could also be a loose heat shield on the collector box, OR-- and look carefully, it happened to me-- make sure one of the relays under the tank hasn't broken loose from its mooring and is now "dancing" on top of the valve cover.

Use a long screwdriver; stick the handle in your ear and "probe" the motor, you'll track it down.

What method are you using for adjusting the cam chain?

Why do you think it is rich, what do the plugs look like?

But like I said, if it's got a harumph, harumph, harumph idle the primary will make a real racket. It's nearly nonexistent once you get it idling like a sewing machine.

 

Ok, I'll try the tach cable, but won't taking it out of the engine leave it sloshing oil out of the engine? What about following the cable lube instructions in the Clymer and seeing if that works?

The method I'm using for adjusting the cam tension is to turn the engine to C, loosen the bolt and nut on the tensioner, then re-tighten the bolt and nut. I use the ratchet extension method I read about on here, so I don't have to dismantle the bike.

I was reading Chacal's Information Hour and symptoms of rich are evident with my bike, such as the bike sticking at high revs when at idle during a stop when riding and having to rev it a couple times to bring it down. The throttle cable doesn't have any issues. The bike has been hopped up with 4 to 1 exhaust, K&N RC 2372's (fit perfect by the way and made for our 550 bikes) and had 6sigma racing put together a jetting kit. So, I'm still in the process of fine tuning it. I didn't think the tuning would have any effect on the primary chain.

I want to use the colortune plug to check/correct the mixture to save on the labor involved. Plus, it's seems pulling the plugs is more for general diagnoses than fine tuning.

From everything I've read, the first thing I need to do is still check/adjust the valves, before I can do anything else, although at least making sure the idle mixture is correct first wouldn't hurt anything I suppose. Also, plan to replace valve cover seal and check pressure washers because there is a slow leak and now have several birds with one stone.

 

Oil may dribble out of the tach drive, but if it comes out at any more than a dribble, you have another project: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html which you're going to have to do eventually anyway. They seem to all start leaking once the bike goes back in service, no matter the mileage.

By all means lube the cable; but it still might be the instrument itself. Everything you need for that is here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15303.html and here's 550 Seca cluster teardown: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14948.html

NONE of the above three procedures are in the books, BTW.

You're doing the cam chain adjustment correctly, no worries there.

Checking/adjusting valves first off is a GOOD plan, one most folks often don't want to embark upon due to the perceived difficulty. I assume you found that "how-to."

The only effect tuning has on the primary chain is to minimize the "slap" at idle; the smoother the idle, the less "slap."

Some inspiration:

 

Oh, wow! That is NICE! Thanks for the help, I wasn't looking forward to trying to replace the primary chain. I'll try all your other advice, too. Thanks!

Oh, replacing the tach seal(s) was one of the first things I had to do. I got that info off this forum, too!

 

Well, to update you, I got my shim tool in the mail and checked the valves and I think I might have a dilemma. I believe I need shims under Y200.

Here's my clearance numbers with the shim number and the shim I believe I need after doing the math.

ex1 0.127/Y245 Y170
ex2 0.152/Y250 Y200
ex3 0.152/Y250 Y200
ex4 0.152/Y255 Y205

in1 0.051/Y265 Y165
in2 0.152
in3 0.102/Y270 Y220
in4 0.076/Y270 Y195

Also, here is a pic of the cam chain.

NEVERMIND, I FIGURED IT OUT!

 

You calculated wrong. I can't see how you came up with those numbers.

There is an implied decimal point in the shims - a 245 shim is 2.45 mm.

Here's how you calculate ex 1.

Maximum spec of 0.20mm - 0.127mm (your clearance) gives 0.073mm.

Subtract the 0.073 from your 245 shim:
2.45 - 0.073 = 2.377mm. Since shims come in .05mm increments you round up to 2.40 (240 shim).

You can double check your results by subtracting the shims (2.45 - 2.40 = 0.05) and add that to your measured clearance (0.05 + 0.127 = 0.177)

0.177mm is in spec for an exhaust valve.

 

On my fingers and toes here are your needed shims:

ex1 240
ex2 245
ex3 245
ex4 245

in1 255
in2 **UNCHANGED**
in3 You're probably in spec. (inch gauges) but could get away with a 265. I just did my Venture and left the .102 intakes (5 of them) alone.
in4 260

Check my work. I did it quick.

 

Yep, MiCarl is correct.

Here's what you need:

ex1 0.127/Y245 ---> go to a Y240
ex2 0.152/Y250 ---> go to a Y245
ex3 0.152/Y250 ---> go to a Y245
ex4 0.152/Y255 ---> go to a Y250

in1 0.051/Y265 ---> go to a Y255
in2 0.152 ???? this is okay, no need to change
in3 0.102/Y270---> go to a Y265
in4 0.076/Y270---> go to a Y265

 

Thanks for the check Len.

You should check them after you change the shims but in particular intake 3. If you're .102 gauge is loose in there you could end up at .170 or so. If it's snug then it'll take the new shim.

On my Venture the .102 intakes I left alone were very loose on the gauge. If they'd been snug I'd have gone to a thinner shim. I should have pointed that out the first time.

 

As to your original question, I had to break my chain due to motor being frozen. They do sell the link to replace the original. They claim there is a special tool to ping the link. I am not going to buy the tool so i am going to figure how i can ping the pin so the side link won't come off.

 

Thanks Everyone! I don't know how I got it in my head, but I did the calculations 245 = 0.245. Wha?! Yeah, I know. Figured it out a little later, though. I'll take Chacal's recommendations. As to the original post I'm going with Fitz and focus on other things besides the cam chain being the issue. Have a colortune 500 on the way and have to rig up a manometer and get a hold of the YICS tool and I'll be well on my way. This all started when I found a set of NOS Mac 4 to 1 exhaust on Ebay for $30 and then realized I had to scrap them or re-jet, so I got some K&Ns and a jet kit. Now I'm a budding motorcycle wrench jockey! Hah! Thanks again!

Oh, here's a pic of the bike after I put the hopped up carbs back on and before I got into the valves.