I need help!!

Hi guys... this is my problem...I replaced one of the ignition coils (the one for the 1st. and 4th cyl.) the problem is I still have no power in the engine, its starts but sound like a moped and does not move quick in 1st. gear... I know is that ignition coil because the cable from there to the spark plug in the 1er. cyl was broken. Now here is the trick when I got the new ignition coil (wich is no the same to the old one) I have to connect the + and - terminals in the new coil, the thing is the old coil does not say wich is the + and - so I assumed that the cable with red and white strip was the positive and the orange one was the negative...Is this correct? I tried but still have the same problem....What could happend if I change the terminals?? Some knows the color code for this part...???
Thank you

 

The red/white is the common, the grey--------green come from the pick up coils, me thinks you have it arse upards.

 

red/white is +, orange negative.

You should list your bike in your signature so we know what you're working on.

Have you checked with the plug out of the engine to make sure the coil is firing. Does the coil have the proper specs for the ignition system?

 

I don't have any grey or green cables in the ignition or the connector under the gas tank, just red with a white strip and a solid orange. By "common" you mean positive or negative?

 

Yes, you're right trying to fix a 1985 maxim xj700...and as you can see now I don't know too much of mechanics, I bought this bike and the next day traveled 600 miles to my home that's how I find the broken cable from the ignition coil to the first cyl., so twisting every every now and then I was able to complete the trip but now is not even possible to get in the 1st. gear. I don't know how to test the coil or the specs for the ignition system. Everybody said to me that the cable was fixed to the ignition coil but now seams to be screwed into the ignition coil (I just find that now)

How I check if the coil is firing?

 

I also noticed that the first cyl gets hotter faster than the 4th...It's that normal?

 

if the 1st cylinder gets hot. she's defenitly running. is the 4th cylinder getting hot or not? if it's not getting hot then it's defenitely not running.

 

The colours I gave were for the eary 650 seca, the red/white is poss, but common to both coils.

 

The 4th. is getting hot but much slower tha the 1st... I know there is always a difference between how hot the cylinders get but I didn't know it could be that much, i.e. you can hold your hand for about 5 seconds in the 1st. cyl and about 1 min. in the 4th cyl...

But besides that, any ideas what It could cause the loss o power if the ignition coil is new and before that everything else but the ignition coil was working perfect?
Thank you
Rod.

 

Ok...today saturday in the morning i tried to make her start and nothing happend...yesteday she was running in 2 or 3 cyls. but today it cranks but nothing more...HELP!!!!
Thanks
Rod

 

if you can hold your hand for 1 minute on the 4th cylinder then it's not running. it'll eventually get WARM. but it's supposed to get HOT almost immediately.

you need to make sure the battery is fully charged. and that it's putting out more then 11 volts when it's cranking.

youi need to make sure all 4 carbs are perfectly clean. and that fuel is flowing into those carbs.

you need to make sure all 4 cylinders are getting spark.

figure all that out and you'll have a perfectly running bike.
all that will be left will be maintainance. like adjusting the valves. syncing the carbs. changing the oil. AND rear brake shoes.

 

Ok... Battery is good... spark plug too black (I need to replace them)... carbs good but could be better... what I can't understand is yesterday was running in 2 o 3 cyl, today not even start!! in fact got worse when I changed the ignition coil...
How I make sure the cyl. get some sparks??
Thank again..
Rod

 

the best test is to use a screwdrive in the spark plug ends. and hold the screwdriver 1/4 inch away from the engine. it's called the plug gap test. if you have to hold the screwdriver real close to the engine then the coil spark is weak. or nonexistent.

just becuase you put a spark plug on the engine and it sparks don't mean it's firing inside the cylinder. outside airpressure is only 12-14 pounds per square inch. inside the cylinder the compression air pressure can be 120 - 150 pounds per square inch. depending on the shape of your engine.

air acts as resistance. the more air there is between the plug gap. the harder it is to spark. much like the gap of a plug. the wider the gap the harder it is to spark.

today's cars have a wider plug gap becuase they put out 50k volts. motorcycles only put out 7k volts. they have to have smaller gap and very good condition spark plug.

if you have spark, you have gas, and you have compression. the motor will run. that's all there is too it. unless your igniter box is messed up and your spark isn't timed properly. or your valve timing out of adjustment. in which case the bike wouldn't run at all.

your #4 cylinder is missing one of those key ingredients. otherwise it would be running also.

 

Like snowwy66 said keep it simple spark, gas and compression. If your plugs are black they are fouled and are not going to spark. Start by making sure you have spark on all four cylinders. You can use the screwdriver method or use a new spark plug and a jumper wire and hook the clip of the jumper wire to the bottom of the plug and the other end of the wire to a ground and turn over engine and check for spark.

 

is the plug wet. that would indicate either flooding carb or no spark.

is the plug dry. that would indicate no fuel.

plugs are fairly cheap though. so it wouldn't hurt to replace all 4 anyways. and go from there.