Oil Level Switch Availability?

Anyone know where I could get a replacement oil level switch for 81 XJ550RH? Mine appears to be leaking. Thought it might be a gasket, but it seems like the orange material that seals in the wiring has cracked from old age. Looks like a sealed unit (switch and wiring). TIA.

 

It's either Fleabay or a boneyard. Be aware that there are at least two flavors of sensors, one for the computerized bikes and the other for engines like my 650 Seca.

They both are the same exact appearance, but are wired differently.
Apparently the older type closes a contact when low to complete the circuit, while the computerized units break the same connection when the oil is too low.
The wrong one will have the oil-level light on when the engine is running.

Don't ask me how I know this. :roll:


Someone here may have the actual part numbers, but your safest bet is to get an oil-level sensor from a bike that is like yours, instrumentation-wise.

 

In the most serious of binds I.E. no parts available, reuse the old unit after you re-pot it with new epoxy. You will need to scrape out all of the old stuff (Royal PITA and lots of time), get it cleaned up really good and pour epoxy back into the switch housing after you have built up a mold with the material of your choice. I understand you can make rubber molds fairly cheap. I would use thermal glue gun to make the mold and be sure to coat the inside with release agent.
Best of luck.

 

Where are you in New York?

I have a 550 Parts Bike that needs a ride in a pick-up truck. $100 for the works and title.

Billerica, Massachusetts

Rick Massey

 

Thanks for the info, I didn't know about there being 2 different units, and the part # for the switch is not shown in the parts manual (only the oil pan itself).
Rick, I'm in Rockland County, about 1/2 hour north of NYC. Thanks for the offer, but if I brought home another bike my landlord would kick my a$$, lol.
Looks like a project to attack at my next oil change.

 

If you're using the stock exhaust system, you'll need to remove it to get to the oil sensor. Pick up some exhaust washers before you start.

 

Your part number is: 4U8-85720-00-00 :: OIL LEVEL GAUGE ASS'Y

It's listed on the parts diagram at Yamaha-Motor.com; Electrical 1; number 31. Enter you make/year/model at the following link: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

It also fits all these other models:
FJ600L 1984 600 FJ600 Street
FJ600LC 1984 600 FJ600 (Cal) Street
FJ600N 1985 600 FJ600 Street
FJ600NC 1985 600 FJ600 (Cal) Street
FZ600S 1986 600 FZ600 Street
FZ600SC 1986 600 FZ600 (Cal) Street
FZ600T 1987 600 FZ600 Street
FZ600TC 1987 600 FZ600 (Cal) Street
FZ600U 1988 600 FZ600 Street
FZ600UC 1988 600 FZ600 (Cal) Street
XJ550H 1981 550 XJ550 Maxim Street
XJ550J 1982 550 XJ550 Maxim Street
XJ550K 1983 550 XJ550 Maxim Street
XJ550RH 1981 550 XJ550R Seca Street
XJ550RJ 1982 550 XJ550R Seca Street
XJ550RK 1983 550 XJ550R Seca Street
YX600A 1990 600 YX600 RADIAN Street
YX600AC 1990 600 YX600 RADIAN (Cal) Street
YX600S 1986 600 YX600 RADIAN Street
YX600SC 1986 600 YX600 RADIAN (Cal) Street
YX600T 1987 600 YX600 RADIAN Street
YX600TC 1987 600 YX600 RADIAN (Cal) Street
YX600U 1988 600 YX600 RADIAN Street
YX600UC 1988 600 YX600 RADIAN (Cal) Street
YX600W 1989 600 YX600 RADIAN Street
YX600WC 1989 600 YX600 RADIAN (Cal) Street

South Seattle Yamaha Sports Plaza sells OEM parts at the lowest prices around, and they are very good to do business with. Your part is about $100.00.
http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/ ... /cart.aspx

If you don't want to drop a C-note on the new OEM part, you can use one off any of the above listed models from a salvage yard or eBay.

Z

 

Thanks again for the info. Didn't realize how much clearance was needed to remove the switch...definitely will need to drop the exhaust. And thank you for the cross-ref, should make it somewhat easier to find a used unit.

 

Do NOT break-off an Exhaust Flange Stud by attacking the removal of the Exhaust Flange Hex-nuts "With vigor."

Remove the Exhaust Flange Hex-nuts like you're the Bomb Squad guy who volunteered to save the World by NOT breaking-off a Stud and tripping the fuse.

Because ... if you snap-off an Exhaust Stud ... on the way-in ... to get the pipes and collector out of the way ... to get-at the oil level sender ... you'll be taking-off more than just exhaust parts ... for not being careful!

Be careful going in!

 

Thanks Rick, I'll make a note to give them a good soaking with penetrating oil before attempting removal. I noticed that the nuts do have some rust, so I was planning on replacing all 8.

 

Those nuts are out where it's very easy to HEAT THEM. A nice dull red and then break them loose.

I think I'm probably going to get a reputation as using the torch for everything.

 

I've never had a stud break yet (touch wood) probably because I always take them off warm. A squirt of penetrating oil while hot, have a beer then remove.

Most breakages occur on bikes that have not been running for years. Corrosion gets to them as well as bent ones from PO's with forcefull habits.

I removed a set of headers from an old XS the other day with two rusted solid nuts. Being careful with removal meant the studs actually unscrewed from the head rather than breaking off.

 

Rick, I'm more than a pickup truck drive away, but if you decide to do something with that 550 parts bike PM me.