carb. removal?/

ok im stuck right now. how the heck do you get these allen bolts off on the back of the motor, is it a special tool or are my allen wrenches not long enough any tips on how to get these off? samething for the the ones on the bottom


also can someone point me in the direction to where i can find the manual for the bike online or a hard copy, sorry if this has alrready been posted some where, if it has can u post the link in here.

 

PM sent...........


jeff

 

I hope you told him to stop right there...

 

you can cut an Allen wrench you probably are going to have to slide the carbs back a little or tilt them down. I cut a Allen wrench for my virago and forced it into a socket makes it much easier

 

just remove the carb rack first from those head boots and airbox boots. then you'll have more room to work with trying to remove the allen bolts.

on that note, FAIR WARNING: those bolts have a tendency to snap so I would only try to remove the header rubber boots if completely necessary

 

Ya, DO NOT try to take those off as Fitz implies.

Chances are you will snap those bolts off and come up with a bunch of swear words.

They are NOT necessary at all to remove in order to take off the carbs.

There are plenty of manuals like this on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Haynes-Y ... Literature

Are you unsure of how to remove the carburetors?

 

Those Allen Cap Screws fastening the Manifolds to the Head are a cheap, SOFT STEEL, fastener, ... installed without being treated to prevent seizure.

DON'T attempt to remove them if they resist coming right out.

Because they are SOFT, ... they will TWIST as if they are turning out.
But, they will SNAP and leave a fragment that will require DRILLING or ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE MACHINE removal.

If they present an obstacle for removing the Carbs:

Loosen the Air Box
Mark and Push the Airbox Boots back into the Box.
Use a long, hard wood, framing hammer handle as a Pry Tool.

(Buy a long hammer handle. Cut-off the end if it has a split & wedge piece.
Cut-off the split. Hold the solid end to a Sander with coarse paper. Shape the end to allow it to have form closely matching a Crow-bar end. Finish with Medium Paper. Use the Hammer Handle to Pry Carbs, Cases, Brake Rotors or anything that must not be marred or scratched.)

 

Just like everyone else says DON"T REMOVE THOSE BOLTS.
If you need to remove the carbs get a manual. Look through this post it will give you a idea on what is involved.
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... moval.html

 

Just like everyone is saying. Take of the clips off (towards the rear of the carbs *intake). Undo cables and hoses, wiggle the rear boots off the intake part of the carbs. Now you have the carbs hanging there basically. Pull them off.

Why did you want to pull the carbs?

 

ok good thing i asked this question before i started to take find other ways but the airbox only goes back soo far but i will get a manual before i continue to go further

 

I'm guessing it has something to do with either a leak or to clean them.

Pulling the Carbs on a XJ-Bike is frustrating. It's one reason that Shops, these days, will make-up some excuse about why they aren't going to service your old bike.

Thing like Soft-snapping Bolts, Intake Manifolds that might need to be replaced, and the TIME it takes to do to these OLD Bikes what can be done on a new Bike with a plug-in module, ... make it a losing proposition for a Tech to have to take these old bikes and do the job.

 

You do not need to remove the air box to remove the carbs.
After you get the rear boots out of the way there s plenty of room to slide
the carbs off the front boots. Just sayin.

 

I have found that a little careful use of a heat gun applied to the boots makes the carbs at least 10x easier to remove. Just don't over do it - a little heat goes a long way.

 

When I do my carbs, I usually just tuck the rear boots the attach to the back of the carbs into the air box. It makes things a lot easier.

 

There are more than a couple bolts holding the airbox, and depending on the bike, one of them won't be readily apparent (the rear bolt on the 550s.)

As all the "outcry" has indicated, don't remove the intake manifolds unless absolutely necessary; and the carbs would've had to come off first.

BEST ADVICE, and you gave it to yourself.

 

Just wondering why you are pulling the carbs to begin with.

 

Probably to clean them, like we ALL do. Or at least SHOULD do, or at least SHOULD HAVE DONE at some point.


Don't worry, it's only a difficult job the first several times you do it. After that, you'll be one of the ones of us that tell everyone else how to do it. !!


Dave

 

Waldo, do you have more bikes than Dave here?

 

Maybe

 

lol, there's no shame in that

 

uh-oh.

 

There's a few things you can to to make the chore less aggravating.

Mark the Airbox Boots 1, 2, 3, & 4.
Mark the Airbox Boots and Airbox at where the Boot will line-up correctly upon reattachment.

Sand the Inside Diameters of the AirBox Boot Holes a few thousandths bigger.
Sand the Lip of the Airbox Hole you widened with 1000 or 1200 Paper.

Before you begin to replace an Airbox Boot, ... shoot Silicone Spray onto a cloth. Wipe silicone on both sides of the Hole the Boot will fit into.
Q-Tip Silicone in the Airbox Groove.

Have TOOLS that will make manipulating the Boot =>> Real Easy.
(This set, ... modified as needed, ... is terrific for wrangling boots.)

Mark the Handles to show the position of the business ends.
Shorten the Right Angle.

http://www.electricaladvantage.net/pick ... cekit.aspx

 

Let's start out by finding out exactly what bike this is so some more specific advice can be supplied.

It's not difficult, but there is "technique" involved, which differs from bike to bike.