rear lift? differen shocks?

I’ve seen a lot of people lower the rear end on their xj’s, even convert to hard tails, but has anyone tried lifting them?

If I’m not mistaking, stock rear shocks are roughly 14” (EDIT: rear shocks are 12.5")
I work at AdvanceAutoParts, and we sell rear shocks for ‘90s Chevy Astro that measure roughly 18” (uncompressed). For those who don’t know, astro vans have rear leaf springs, so these shocks do not bare the full weight of the van. They are an aftermarket upgrade up increase the load bearing capacity.



Anyway, it looks like they would fit, and provide a 2-3” lift in the back, but I’m concerned that they might be too soft, or cause problems with rebound.

Has anyone tried anything like this?

 

Why lifting???

 

Lifting and stiffening the rear can add to the "quickness" of the steering on a bike, but I would avoid going with an automotive type shock. They are usually of a fixed position type, whereas a bike shock can be adjusted. Also this modification will cause a weight transfer towards the front of the bike, so you may want to look at beefing up the front end. Progressive springs, heavier oils, spacers of some kind.
You definitely don't want a bike that has a soft or mushy front end compromised even more by lifting the back end significantly.
But, it's your bike and you can do whatever you want, just be careful.

 

Good point on the weight transfer, I really did not consider that.

I’m going with a lower profile seat/tail section on the bike, so it makes it feel like I’m crouching down when I’m walking the bike.
I guess the back end being so low just feels a little weird after a sports bike.

 

if you lift them up will show even more of that skinny back tire wouldn't that be pretty. sounds fun to ride. That xtra 4 inches of lift in the back with none in the front would be like a backwards chopper wouldn't it.

 

*EDIT* First off, what kind of bike, where you live, etc.
Not sure if it can be done on your bike, but can you slip the forks up through the triples? Maybe an inch say. But check for ground clearance and clearance between the wheel and the rest of the bike when the forks are compressed, then set the rear shocks you have now on the stiffest setting to see if this gives you the more "aggressive" feel and stance to the bike. It'll never be comparable to a crotch rocket, ever.
But, if the front end is mushy or soft you may get the same issues that I stated above.
A lot of guys I used to race with got more performance from their bikes by investing in good suspension, then brakes and finally power. It's no good having a powerfull bike if you can't either stop it or handle the power.
Just a couple of nuggets I picked up when I used to race.

 

The bike is a 1982 Seca 650

Not really trying to make a crotch rocket out of this one, have a CBR in the garage for that

This one I want to go with a caferacer look.

This is the picture of the bike the day I picked it up (the picture makes it look a lot better than it really is)



I took the front end of because the headlight ws busted and the bracket was bent, new parts are on their way.
The tail section I'm just not feeling. This was the first day I took it out for a spin.




Clubman bars came in, and I did move the forks up some 3/4 of an inch. I also took the dented exhaust can off to get to the shock, and put the rear fairing on to see how it would look if I reused original plastics.
This is not the actual stance of the bike since it is on a tripot, so the back wheel is in the air.

 

like the color

 

I do too
but because of the huge dent on the other side of the gas tank, and the scuffs in the plastics and the front fender I will have to repain it.
Not sure yet if I'll stick with the same color, or something different.

I initially considered satin black or flat red, but now I'm not sure.

 

When you go to repaint, stay away from the flat or satin finishes, I know it's your bike and can do what you want, but if you go to a lot of the Cafe' Forums a lot of "Paint discussions" are saying that the flat, especially black have been way over done and people are moving away from those choices. Just sayin', not hatin'.

 

I did notice that too. I saw a few similar stile bikes in yellow, but I'm not sure if I could pull it off.

 

I decided to go with rear shocks from a mid 70's sportster.
They are 14.5" eye to eye, and should give me the desired stance, while still (somewhat) retaining the use of the center stand. With those sportster shocks, when on the center stand, the rear tire should be barely touching the ground, but not really putting any weight on it.

I’m also thinking of getting a steering dampener to reduce the risk of wheel wobble at high speeds.

 

If a 650 Seca "speed wobbles" there's a problem. It's only a 125mph bike, and it's rather heavy in ways you can't do anything about.

The steering damper won't be needed; put the cash toward something else.

 

I'm sure it doesn't wobble as it sits stock, but if you change the angle at which it sits (1" lowered in the front, and 2" lifted in the rear) that does change the way it handles drastically. Such a change usually makes the bike a lot more maneuverable at regular speeds, but less stable at high speeds. I’m mostly doing it for looks, as I’m building a caferacer, and want the frame to sit as perpendicular to the ground as possible, instead of the back sagging like a bobber.

 

Be careful on the "static" swingarm angle. The shaft drive isn't happy running at an angle all the time (one of the reasons you find this type of mod more commonly on chain driven bikes.)

If you're already concerned about the bike "falling into" corners, your planned changes will exacerbate that tendency, not help with it.

 

I do realize that, which is why I want to fix that problem first before creating new ones
I don’t think it’ll cause any further problems once the existing issue is fixed.

 

Here it is with sportster shocks...



The center stand is still somewhat usable since the bike sits without it, the bike sits maybe half an inch lower.
You just can't turn the wheel because it's touching the ground.

P.S.
I just realized it, when I tried moving the bike, and it seams I can only get it in 1st and 2nd gear.... no neutral, even when the clutch is all the way in, and no other gears eitehr.
Could this actaully be caused the the rear end being lifted? And if so, how can I still go between the other two gears?

 

OK, well apparently that’s exactly the case…
With sportster shocks… no neutral, and only in and out of 2 gears.
With no shocks and the wheel lifted up off the ground… neutral, and 4 gears.
With stock shocks or no shocks and lowered all the way, 5 gears and neutral.

Any suggestions how I can make it work using sportster shocks?

 

Is that problem when the bike is running or just when you try wheeling it around?
Also, these shorty pipes would look cool on that bike the way it's set up.

Here's a link.
http://lowindustries2.ecrater.com/category.php

 

Just trying to wheel it around.
I just finished putting them on, but haven’t started the engine because it’s late at night, and since I don’t have any pipes on, I don’t want to wake up the neighbors.

P.S.
Those shorty’s do look nice, but I want to get it moving first

 

This may sound stupid, but are you sure you're all the way down in first? Also, not sure what you're saying, when you pull in the clutch does the bike roll or is it stuck in gear?
Straddle the bike off the stand and rock it back and forth while gently tapping the shifter and see if that releases the gears, not using the clutch. DOn't go ape s h i t on it just nice, easy rocking motion.
*EDIT* What's the difference in the length of the shocks?

 

You won't be able to shift thru the whole pattern with the bike at rest unless you turn the rear wheel while doing so; if the longer shocks prevent the rear wheel from turning when on the stand then you won't be able to go thru the gears.

 

progressive lists 14.25 harley shocks as having 160/190 lbs/in springs
and seca shocks with 90/130 or 105/150 heavy duty so don't expect much movement back there, they might not move at all

 

from what I gather, when the rear is jacked up all the way, the angle on the u-join connecting the shaft is too great, thus locking up the rear wheel all together... it doesn't budge what so ever.
The clutch still works, as I'm able to start the bike with the clutch pressed in, but since the shaft is locked in place, that's about all I can do.

And yes, the schock are a lot stiffer. I was fully aware of it, which is not that big of a deal for me.

 

What is a big deal is the fact that you have lifted the rear of your bike so much that the rear driveshaft locks up.


Take the Harley shocks off the bike and step away from it slowly...

 

nothing at all, and yet as silly as it seams, I still want it to spin

 

You could go with Progressives Series 12 shocks, 13" long with the 105/150 heavy duty springs. This would give you a little more lift at the tail, more weight carrying capacity and they are good quality shocks Progressive Suspension Series 12

BTW - I like the look of where you're going. Get the tank fixed (or a better replacement), and a 7" round headlight (the original might be very hard to replace due to its size) and you should be good.

More bikes for inspiration - Bike EXIF

 

...and even more specific inspiration right from the XJBikes files:
Ease's project

 

Thanks, that's really nice and clean. Mine is more of a budget build.
It won't be a show bike, but should make for a very nice everyday bike

Still can't make up my mind as to what to do with the rear... probably the easiest thing would be
to just put the stock rear shocks back on, slap on the traditional caferacer tail,
and call it a day... or I could go extreme, chop of the whole rear end, weld on a new one some 2" higher,
which would give me the look I'm going for, and still keep the shaft at the facttory angle,
as well as reduce the angle on the front wheel... but then the side panels won't fit

Anyway, meantime I did a little work on the front...

I replaced the broken retaining ring...


Sandblasted the bowl...



And then used roll-on truck bed-liner. I wanted it black anyway, and I figured bed-liner would be tougher and more resistant to chips than regular pain.


Also made a new bracket for the gauge cluster that will lower it by 2.5-3" and bring it closer to the forks by about 1".
Also put new headlight mounts which will allow me to mount the headlight so that the top of it is eaven or even a little lower than the top of the gas tank.


I did the same to the gauge pods as to the headlight bowl.
I also decided to retain the dummy lights, just sized them down.


And then here's that nasty dent in the gas tank...

 

Back to stock rear shochs... finished off the headlight as well.
Took it out for a spin today. A little too cold for it, but stil fun

 

Nice idea with the bed liner. May have to "steal" it for my build.

 

Good suggestion on the shocks/springs.

The headlight already is. The stock 8" lamp didn't have the "full diaper" bulge at the bottom and came with an early Halogen unit, not a sealed beam. Somebody already swapped it to a 7".

I have a rust-free 650 Seca tank that kinda looks like Mr. Potato Head, but isn't as creased and dented as that one. Lots of minor dents. PM me if interested.