No running lights

Here is the issue, headlamp taillamp/license plate light all working normally. fuses not blown(at least on the fuseblock). However I have no front/rear running lights, although turn signals do work. Back to the fuseblock does anyone know the order of fuses within the block, say looking at it from the left side of bike. I believe the fuseblock is original with glass type buss fuses ranging from 30A-5A? I have included a photo of the fuseblock in question
Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

what are you working on?

 

Mack has a point, if you put the year and model of your bike in your signature it is much easier for us to help, HOWEVER....

Going by the Haynes manual (only one I have right now) it looks like all the boxes are the same.

The fuse panel is original IN STYLE, but not the original fuse box. You may want to think about replacing it with a panel that uses ATC or ATM blade type fuses.

The wiring is this:

SOLID RED=Main, this should be a 30 amp fuse if your bike is a 750, however, I am unsure what is called for in the 600, 900, or 1100. all 650 and 550 XJs use a 20 amp fuse for the main.

RED/WHITE=Ignition, this should be a 10 amp fuse

SOLID BROWN=Signal, this should be a 10 amp fuse

RED/YELLOW=Headlight, this should be a 10 amp fuse

I'm new to XJs, but I do not know of any that had "running lights" built into the signals. But if they did, it should run off the same fuse as the signals.

I'm assuming that you have a 198x XJ750 since the main is a 30amp.

Anybody else have an idea?

 

Your bike may or may not have running lights. My 550 maxim only has turn signals.

 

Sorry bout that mack, 1982 XJ650 Maxim.
Thanks for the info tskaz...
Thought I had running lights, now im not so sure

 

planning on replacing that fuse panel with the blade type, however atc or atm, whats the difference?

 

I'm about 99% sure that your XJ650J Maxim doesn't have running lights. And you're absolutely going to want to, at minimum, get the right size fuses in there before something gets fried. 20 for the main, 10 for the rest. Take it from someone who's PO was the world's worst wiring expert. Term used very loosely.

 

Look at the number of wires coming out of the front signal lights. 2 wires = no running lights. 3 wires = running lights.

 

To be even more sure check the bulb. Single or double filament (single or double button on bottom of bulb).

Regardless of the light assembly/bulb style (assuming non-original) it doesn't mean it was wired properly for running lights.

FYI: If you have dual filament signals (with RED in rear) you COULD wire it for running lights even if your bike normally doesn't have them. Just wire the dimmer "running" light wires into you brake light's always-on-tail light.

 

Key word there being RED, that's why Bob used caps.

I don't know about the law in PA, but here in the mitten if you had amber bulbs glowing in the back at night that would be an instant ticket, but red would be okay.

 

Wow lots of info, thanks all! FYI they are single button bulbs, 2 wires to each signal not 3. So I would have to conclude they were not running lights to begin with. **Note: I just acquired the bike this past Christmas, now with the weather starting to break here in PA (or so I thought yesterday 52, today snow/30's) Ive been going over it more now. Also I just sent out for the XJCD today, psyched to get that!

 

I HAD running lights but switched to some different signals.
The old signals had 3 wires ( hot, ground and running lights i guess ) and of course not original.
Anyway, the blue wire in the picture is the one that the 3rd wire was plugged into.

 

Yep - PA too. You need red running lights in the rear.

 

So, I'm pretty new to riding...bought my '82 XJ 750 3 years ago. I love it. Every year, however, something little goes wrong with it. But, with a little research, I've been able to fix most of it.

I read this thread because I have a similar problem. But, I'm not seeing the solution. Maybe you guys can help me?

I don't know much about bikes, but I'm willing to try. Last summer, my running tail lights went out. My bike has a back suitcase with lights. They used to work but they went out also. I tested those lights with a battery to the wires...they still work fine. so, I replaced the bulbs in the tail lights...those bulbs are the same as the brake lights. The lights work when the brakes are engaged, but not on their own...

I tried following the wires back to the battery and whatever, but everything looks fine. Can anybody help me? I cleaned all of the parts and the connectors...I don't know what else to do. The guy at Iron Pony (local motorcycle warehouse and Yamaha dealer) told me to redo all of the electric...but, that seems silly when almost everything works fine.

The fuse box is loose though. But, all the fuses are good. I checked them all. Sometimes the bike shuts down and I have to jiggle the fuse box. The turn signals also sometimes seem like they don't want to work. They flick off and on...MOST of the time.

But, when everything is working fine...still no running tail lights and the suitcase still doesn't light up.

What can I do? Is there a website that explains how it's all wired? I work on guitar electronics all the time...this can't be that much more complicated.

Thanks.

 

Sorry, Maximrat, didn't see you ask this the other day.
An ATC fuse is the regular blade type auto fuse. An ATM fuse is the Mini version of the same fuse.

 

Maxim750,
A. If you put your bike in your signature you won't have to type it a thousand times.
B. If you start your own thread you'll get more people reading it, which equals more help. (and less confusion)
C. Replace the fuse box with a ATC or ATM blade type fuse box. That's the first step. Not saying that will take care of all your electrical problems, but it'll take care of a lot, and make other problems easier to sort out.

 

Good points. Bike info in sig; and please start a new thread if you're not finding a solution using 'forum search' and looking in "FAQ Suggestions."

That being said, to clarify a couple of points: The original fusebox in these bikes had fuse clips made of some bizarre alloy that actually crystallized over time, and the clips often simply break completely on their own, or when touched.

(If "shaking" a fusebox produces any result of any sort then it needs to be attended to.)

The fusebox can be replaced with a stock AGC (glass-fuse) type; rebuilt with new clips from Radio Shack (thus retaining the glass fuses) or replaced with a modern blade-type fuse box, with a cover (recommended.) The first two options are for those who wish to keep everything as "stock" as possible.

Regardless of which route you choose, the original fusebox must receive some sort of attention or it will suddenly and unexpectedly fail on you, period. WILL, not might.

XJs, while having a great deal of similarity and commonality, also have as many if not more differences. Electrical systems are a good example. Lighting circuits, relays, safety circuits differ from bike to bike and model to model; some things are "variations on the theme" and others are completely different.

My point here is that you need a manual for your bike. Then you KNOW what you're dealing with, not guessing based on info that may or may not apply to your particular XJ.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will look into replacing the fuse box. Last year the main power would go out and it turns out that the fuses were loose due to what you were saying...they were breaking...falling apart.