xj1100 break light on dash coming on...

On the '82 xj1100 that I have completely gone through, the break light on the dash comes on when it wants to.

I have rebuilt all of the calipers with new pistons, put in fresh fluid( bleading the back is a fight!), new pads, new rear line to the back caliper(the line had a cut in it,but not through), new master cylinder seals on both of them and a new lid on the rear, cleaned out both master cylinders,etc...

I had the switch contacts inside the master cylinders apart and cleaned them. that solved the break light problem for a bit, but now that it has about 700mi after the overhaul, the problem is back, although intermitantly. I may just be me, but it seems to only come on when it is off the side stand and the bars are streightened. The fluid level is good on both front and rear too...

Any Ideas?

Matt.

 

Have you determined which one is causing the light to come on? Those float switches do go bad. They are sealed and are not repairable.You can bypass one switch at a time to see if it makes the light come back on.

 

I think that it is the one in the front master... When i had the break system all apart, I took the "c" clip off of the shafts and cleaned up all of the contacts and reassembled them(front and rear).

I am thinking to bypass them, all I would do is jump across the wires going into the switch? Given that the switch is a normally open type and would close and turn the light off when the fluid level is high enough. Am I right?

Does anyone know if yamaha still sells those switches? If not, can I source an aftermarket switch?

Thanks, Matt.

 

Yamaha still sells them, expensive though. You can bypass them, pull the headlight and find the two wires. Unplug the wires going to the sensor then plug the two wires going to the main harness together. Basicly bypassing the switch.

 

It could be as simple as "Low Fluid" in the MC, ...
-or-
The MC not "Level" on the Handlebars.

 

It has that huge fairing on it, so I can see the wires and where they connect into the harness. I had thought about just sliding a fuse between the wires that go into the harness, but I didn't want to short anything out... a bypass might be the fix for me depending on how expencive the switch is.

Fluid is definately full, and I think that the mc is in the stock position... the bars are the stock adjusting aluminum ones and they are in the stock mounting position... thanks for the tip, though. Sometimes I luck out with an easy fix... just not usually.