Adjusting hand brake

hey there, I am trying to get this bad boy road-worthy before the season, and it looks as though the hand brake is little if no use at the moment. The hand brake presses down with no resistence. I looked at the brake switch, and I can't tell if they are good or bad.

Should i replace the brake switch, or is there some way I can adjust the tension of the hand brake? I doubt it as from what I can tell it's just two cables coming out of the brake handle.

thanks

 

You should have the brake light switch cable & the hydraulic hose, so if you have no brake, either the system needs bleeding, needs fluid, needs the master cylinder rebuilt or the caliper piston overhauled.

 

"Dug out of snow drift"........I'd start at the MC and go through the entire front brake system piece by piece. Switch is an easy check, get a multi meter and test it with the lever squeezed and you should get a reading.

 

flush teh fluid and go from there.

since you've got the top off. make sure you have 2 holes down in the bottom that are visible to the naked eye. if you only see one. the other is plugged.

 

Only one of the holes is drilled through.

That's the least of your worries right now.

As above; if the lever comes right to the bar, then the hydraulic system is likely empty, or full of dried fluid. That's more than a "hand brake" the front brake on a motorcycle provides up to 90% of the stopping power.

This isn't a matter of "adjustment." You're going to need to overhaul the front brakes; rebuild the caliper and master cylinder, replace the lines (good opportunity to upgrade to Stainless Steel) and probably the pads; and then fill and bleed the system.

I would NOT just dump fluid in a dried-up system and hope everything will be OK, even if you do get a little function back. You need to do this right; your life depends on it.

Motorcycle brakes (especially the front) are no place to cut corners.

 

how much brake fluid is required?

 

Not much, but it can use up a lot of fluid bleeding all the air out. At least if you're not 'recycling' the fluid as you bleed, which you shouldn't. I usually buy 2 of the smaller (pint?) bottles, since DOT3/4 brake fluid absorbs moisture and shouldn't be stored for long after you open it.

 

i see alot of info about getting the brake fluid out, but where the heck does it go in?

 

Remove the cap on the master cylinder, should be 2 phillips screws. If you've got an impact driver (not an impact wrench/gun, the 1/4" kind) I would use it... removing broken screws or ones with the heads rounded is no fun, and I've saved many using my impact driver vs. a screwdriver.

Check the condition of the diaphragm, the rubber piece between the cap and fluid reservoir that's supposed to keep air separate from the fluid. If it's cracked the fluid can absorb water faster, and if the edges don't seal it'll also leak fluid.

 

It "Go-in" ... -or- "Gets-filled" -- by removing the Cover from the Master Cylinder.

Remove the 2 Screws.
Lift the Cover off from the Master Cylinder Reservoir.
If the cover brings the Rubber Diaphragm Gasket the Reservoir is visible.

If the Diaphragm has stayed on the MC, ... life and remove.
Clean the Diaphragm, Cover and Vent.

REMOVE the Fluid in the Reservoir.
Replace with Fresh Fluid.

TEST:

Fill Reservoir 1/2 Full.
Work Brake Lever.
Observe Fluid in Reservoir.
IF, ... Brake Fluid shoots-up in a stream like a "Fountain" from the Bottom of the Reservoir, ... The Master Cylinder has FAILED and needs to be REBUILT.

 

This question scares me...

Get an owners manual and/or repair manual ASAP.

Read and re-read how to rebuild and bleed brakes, before you start and put your life at risk.

Don't worry I never redone/bleed brakes either, but I have multiple manuals and this forum to help me!

 

Yeah no kidding.

STOP RIGHT THERE. I WASN'T KIDDING ABOUT AN EMPTY SYSTEM.

You can't just fill a long-empty empty system and try to bleed it; even if you do manage to get some function back IT WILL NOT BE SAFE.

If the brake system is empty, and the bike was sitting for a long time, YOU NEED TO REBUILD THE BRAKES NOT JUST PUT IN SOME FLUID.

GET A BOOK. Seriously.

 

Listen to Bigfitz!!!! DO NOT I repeat DO NOT ride that bike without doing a complete brake overhaul. While you are at it, check the rear brake. The friction material on these bikes commonly delaminate from the shoe. This is your life we're talking about. Read the threads on brakes. Get a manual or have a mechanic or someone who is familiar with brake systems help or do the work.

 

This seems like a good opportunity to leave this here. I went and overhauled my 750J front brakes a few years back. Pads, piston seals, stainless lines, and seals/piston dust cover on the MC. I also opened up that leetle hole in the MC. The difference was like night and day.

 

I am getting my mechanic to do it monday. In order to save time ($), he said i can get the stripped screws off the master cylinder top. i screwed out the heads and they came out fine. I then unscrewed the remainder of the one with plyers, the second one was too weak to get ahold of and it's stuck in the screw hole. any advice on getting this thing out?

 

KROIL: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

HEAT (applied VERY judiciously.)

Leave it for the mechanic?

If your mechanic's going to do it RIGHT, he's going to need PARTS. Don't pay someone to do a half-arse job, your life depends on it.

 

I have the front brake done, but I also have been looking at stainless brake lines. they looks sexy. I see an ebay website that they sell them where you can choose the length and fitting size.

Just wondering:
-what the overall length of the front brake-line (including the fittings)
-what fitting size is required? (i'm guessing 10mm straight banjo, but I just want to be sure)

 

Rather than take a chance on getting incorrect information and therefore incorrect lines check page 4 section J in XJ4Ever's catalogue. Chacal has them made specifically for your bike as long as there have been no modifications to the forks etc.

 

There's more to stainless lines than length and size of fitting. The end fittings come in a number of different angles, and they need to be "clocked" (rotationally positioned) correctly in relation to each other or they will not fit properly. Stainless lines are much less flexible than rubber lines and cannot be twisted, so correct fit is important.

Another often overlooked point about stainless lines: The assemblies Len sells are DOT-approved. Not just the lines, or other parts. To get DOT approved, every assembly has to be tested and certified. Very few vendors offer fully DOT-approved assemblies. The rotating, universal-fit fittings are NOT DOT approved and never will be by their nature. Be careful what you buy.