Float Levels

Ok, I was talking about this in another thread but think now that I have some more details that it should be its own thread. Yes there is a great deal of info on the carb side of things to allow someone to get there house clean.

So here's my issue revised with a little side info, this isn't my first bike nor my first rebuild, but I have to admit while the rebuild wasn't a huge challenge, setting the float levels has proved to be, I may be overthinking things or just missing something.

Photos are of two of the carbs that run gas through the overflow tubes, I did many bench level checks prior to install and yes everyone has said the same...that is the standard, personally when I double checked and took the photos on the bike it looks like the level is either spot on, or slightly low. Personally I don't like this bent tube metheod and would prefer a tool like I've seen..preset bend and marked lines...but anyway my eyes see one thing, but the bike overflows...So is this to say the sight tube metheod really isn't as precise as we think, or is it the bend in tube that is throwing things out.

I replaced the seats and the needles from Lens delux kit, anone want to chime in?

 

In the photos those are a bit low.

Petcock on PRI while doing the test?

 

did you put the main fuel valve on PRI position after you mounted the tubes?
float level seems really low :roll:

E: learned a new word :lol:
petcock is fuel valve

 

yes the conditions are petcock in prime...bike overflows when running no matter what the petcock is set to and does not over flow when its not running.

I agree..photos look a bit low..but its closer in real life using a steel rule..just don't have 3 arms to take a shot with the ruler up there.

 

Have you verfieid fuel flow on PRI?

Take you fuel level hose and put it in a can and open the drain screw fuel shoudl flow out of the drain hole at a pretty decent pace.

I suspect it's not flowing enough fuel on PRI to get a proper level check and then when running provides adequate fuel and you get your overflow.

 

For starters, that's not the best/most accurate way to get a reading on the floats.

You need to get the rack off, and mounted in a "fixture" of some sort (I use my bench vise, or you can rig/build something) so that it is perfectly level, front to back and side to side.

Then you need to check ALL 4 carbs' levels; however you need to "loop" your tubing down and around back up next to the side of the carb to get an accurate reading. Think "cursive capital "J."

Checking all 4 on the bike is next to impossible, as is getting the bike oriented so the carbs are level in all directions.

Do a forum search on "clear tube method" or just "float levels" and you'll find some very nice pics of the successful method. You're just spinning your wheels trying to do it that way.

 

Gator 8 lower the tube more does not matter how far down you go with the tube as long as you have gas in the tank the tube can touch the floor. Make a mark on the carb bowl on the side facing out so its easy to see right in the center ( front to back)of the bowl. I take about three or four readings per carb just lower the tube for a new reading. Then put the hose on the next carb in use the same mark on the first outside carb, then put the hose on the third carb in then the forth you can keep using the same mark. The carbs have to be level side to side and front to back if you dont know what meniscus is look it up.

 

Sorry keep forgetting to say how I got here, these pictures are after the bench level test was done...I'm aware I can't get to them all this way, I was just hitting the high points, saying on these two that are overflowing, they looked about the same. I will use a longer tube next go around as what I have seen in the past was a premade tube that didn't really loop down at all, but I get where your going with it, so will take a look.
.

I will update on the next findings.

Thanks.

 

qestion:
what do you mean when you say engine overflows?
is there a problem only on idle rpm or higher too?
have you ever checked your air filter?

 

Unless you find a 90* elbow at ACE hardware and make a stubby little "j"
boy, it brings the clear tube right where you need it !!

 

If you have fuel coming constantly the tube could go off the nipple, around the block and back up beside the carb. Once it stops rising it will represent the level in the bowl. Your tube isn't the problem. Liquids seek their own level.

I'm still going with the theory that for some reason you're not getting good flow from your fuel valve with the engine off leading to a low reading.

 

If you are doing FLOAT Levels ... ON the Bike:

The PETCOCK needs to be in PRI (Prime)

If the Float Levels are extraordinarily LOW:

Clogged Petcock Tower Filter
Clogged Petcock Passages (Clean with Weed-whacker line )
Bad Inline Fuel Filter
Clogged Float Seat Beenie Screens
Stuck Float Pins

 

Looks to me like the float level is too high. While it's measuring pretty close at the rear the carbs pitch down toward the engine. That's why the book specifies to level them front to rear before checking. Personally I cheat by measuring mid way between the front and rear of the bowl.

Also your tube needs to be much closer to vertical at the fuel line. Capillary action does funny things when angled like that.

 

Go get a 90-Degree Adapter.

Run a Short Hose to the Carb Bowl
Let the 90-Degree Adapter give you an ACCURATE Height.

(The Level in the Top Photo looks OK. The Bottom Photo looks low.)

 

+1 My thoughts exactly!

 

You really can't tell anything from the photos. The camera angle and position of the bike can make any level look wrong or right.

 

As promised I would come back with my second pass results, turned out what I had thought was level..previous used rack, was in fact way out and of coarse changed everything. After finding this I got one setup with levels I was happy with, then I used a mic to set the others...then tested all 4 and they all were right at the same levels..give or take a mm.

So now back on the bike, bikes running but since breaking the rack I need to sync.

Secondary question about the enrichment circuit on these carbs, I was wondering just how many rpms are "normal" with full choke? I don't think its a big issue as I adjusted out as much as I could via the cable, but just curious what is the norm.

Anyway thanks for everyone's input on the levels, honestly its kind of a reminder to me that whole bit about assuming thing. I know better but you get lazy the older you get...or maybe its forgetful. Anyway thanks.

 

Hey Gator8, Just to add some wierdness for you.
I've dry set and wet set my carbs multiple times and the one thing that was getting me down was when the bike was hot and I went to restart it was like it would act as if it was flooded.
Same thing on a hot day(32-40c) idling for 5mins at a red light... it would start idling lumpy(and I would start melting) like I put the choke on, after a bit.
I spoke to a mechanic locally who used to service the exact same model, as mine, over here and He said they used to set the float level 2mm below service manual level because of the overheating and fuel expansion in summer.
So, I have reduced the levels by 2mm using the dry method and holy cow does this thing run great now! Smooooth.
Who knows about winter, yet, but people still walk around in shorts in our winters so... you know

 

have the bike on center stand. have someone sit on passenger seat. that will push the back tire down and make the carbs as close to level as possiblel.

don't get started on the dry vs. wet discussion. you'll start a war. LOL.

i'll let you in on a little secret i discovered though. i experimented with different float levels. it didn't matter what the floats were set at. they always came in at 3mm. it's as if the gas can only go so high on the tube.

i had a range of 6mm that i experimented with. 4mm too high to 2mm too low.

but i didn't really have any faith in my carbs as they got the royal work around from back yard mechanics that obviously went where they shouldn't have gone.