the starter solenoid keeps failing on me

This has happened at least 3 times this year. I will go try to start the bike and it will continue sending power to the starter even after I have stopped pushing the button. I have done the ghetto way of checking it with a screw driver and am sure it is this stupid little part.

my questions are:
what is most likely causing this?

and

are there any difference in these parts?

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-28.html#products
(Part #24-6526)

https://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles ... 3/3947.htm

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/ ... electrical
(part #24-2005)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2044wt_939

 

Double check the start button...it sounds like it might be the problem.

Kenneth

 

just open up the housing and check the contacts?

how would i know if it was bad?

 

It is probably the contacts in the solenoid sticking. This can be caused by the solenoid itself failing, High amps drawn by a faulty starter, or low cranking volts from a weak battery. Before going into the solenoid check the battery to ensure it can supply the amps required and maintain the voltage above 10 volts while cranking. Also make sure that the starter isn't drawing too many amps. (if it runs for 15 seconds without getting hot it should be OK) This can only be done with a good battery.

I have successfully repaired mine by carefully disassembling the unit and cleaning the contact area with a file or abrasive paper. This will require re-soldering the external wire to the coil wires inside.

 

JFStewart- talk to me more about this, cause that sounds about right.

So I would guess I would need to drain the oil, take off the starter, clean everything i can get to, and then do what you said and "file the contact area"?

 

No need to drain the oil to remove the starter. Start with the battery to make sure it is OK. Have a local auto parts supply load test it to ensure it is OK. If it is run the starter for no more than 15 seconds and it should still be cool to the touch. If these are OK then look at the solenoid.

The solenoid can be removed and the nuts holding the studs in the solenoid are removed. The black bakelite housing can then be lifted off carefully. Mark parts for orientation. There is a metal disc crimped into the steel base housing. A small punch can be used to roll the crimp away and allow the disc to release from the housing. Below this there is a plunger that rises and falls with the electric current and spring to return it. This contacts two points, one at either side. This is where the welding occurs and pitting is created. A file is used to gently restore the areas flat. The solenoid is then reassembled and the crimping can be done with a small chisel. Ensure that the parts are bottomed and square when crimping.

I just priced a solenoid at a local dealer - $83.37 I know there are cheaper ones out there but for less than an hour, they can be repaired - to a point.

 

You can use any 12vdc solenoid that will handle 20 or so amps. Your local garden supply house has a few in the mower section, Lowes has some for $20 or less. I have successfully overhauled mine in the manner suggested by JF and if I can do it, so can you.

 

before guessing that its a solenoid, properly diagnose the problem so you KNOW what the problem is.

use a volt meter or test light, and watch for voltage at the signal wire on the solenoid after you release the button and it still cranks. if voltage is present, its probably not the solenoid.