Pin holes in diaphragm.

I discovered all of my diaphragms have pin holes.
Could this be part of my idle problem. BTW i am filling the pin holes with a gas and oil resistant cantact adhesive.

 

NO! That crap couldn't seal <insert off-color humorous reference here.>

Use a product called "Liquid Electrical Tape." I got mine at NAPA. Paint it on; two or three coats on each side. Tough as nails and as flexible as the original diaphragm.

There's also a new company producing really nice replacement diaphragms for the Hitachis now, there's a thread running on the forum somewhere.

 

I saw that thread you are talking about.

NO! you mean that pin holes would NOT affect my idle issues.
The bike wont really idle below 1200 or so.

 

Im not doing electrical work.. Im working on my ****ing carbs!!! LOL

 

No, pin holes definitely will cause idle issues.

And if you want your carbs to work, you better get you some liquid electrical tape.

That or new diaphragms.

 

I used RTV gasket maker, why hasn't anyone recommended that? As far as I know mine are fine, I checked a few times after the application but it sat all winter and haven't checked it since last summer. Granted my bike isn't Perfect but I'm sure holes in those babies would be showing a much bigger problem than what I have.

 

plus liquid electrical tape goes on much easier than trying to eff around with "just a dab" of RTV. though next time I want to get a half gallon of liquid electrical tape (ya know, enough to last me and my unborn grandkids) I'll just pick up the plasti-dip stuff for putting new grips on pliers and the like. I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff.

 

I gave my stuff a test already. Works fine and is flexible.

I need to get new ones diaphragms and a few jets in a few months when I tear down again.

 

This is the stuff you need.

 

LOL thats what I paid for the bike!!!

 

That's nothing, buy it from the yammery, it would cost you 2 bikes.

 

looking at the pic and judging by the price I have to assume it comes with that wind-up key so it applies itself while you drink a beer.

 

This application of RTV around fuel systems is probably safe because it is well away from the liquid fuel, and if any of it comes loose it will just get sucked into the intake. Actually I wish I'd heard of the liquid insulation idea before I sent my carb boots to the UK for replacement.

I have had very bad experience with RTV silicone on fuel tanks. It absorbs gasolene and swells like you wouldnt believe. Squirt a drop into a jar and fill it with gas, leave it for a month and see what you have, a golf ball sized blob of wobbly rubbery stuff that clogs lines and filters.

Never use it for sealing carb gaskets, fuel fittings, petcocks or anthing else on the fuel supply path.

Just my experience, anyone else ever had this problem?

 

It's a known no-no, so hopefully not.

 

I temporarily patched the diaphragms in my Venture with the stuff you dip tool handles in. It was pretty well gone a month later when I put the new diaphragms in.

For what it's worth, the Venture idled fine with Swiss Cheese diaphragms and my fuel mileage dropped with new ones.

 

oh crap, you guys keep me busy! takn mine out tonight

 

Im not saying I found the best stuff in the world but even the reviews are good for this.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/ ... Review.htm

 

I've tried that stuff in various applications in the past and it always failed miserably. Not meant for a harsh "automotive" environment is my guess; doesn't seem to like heat/vibration. I'm speaking from first-hand experience not innanet reviews.

I know for a fact that Liquid Electrical Tape works, and holds up.

 

I use the Liquid tape on my carb intakes. Do you have any luck with that application?

 

I packed my cracked intake boots with black adhesive RTV gasket maker; and didn't paint back over them with anything.

I've used it for carb diaphragms and insulating things.

 

Which brand Liquid electrical tape resists gas and oil?

 

Guys, Fitz has the experience. He has apparently tried most products and those he hasn't he tells you so you can decide for yourself. Listen to him. I tried several things and he questioned, pointed out flaws in my thinking, and advised of alternatives. I have yet to meet him but am looking forward to maybe connecting with him at some point, possibly Port Dover next year. Take advantage of his experience.

 

Not every can of Liquid Electrical Tape is the same exact product.
I am trying to figure out which brand he is using that welcomes gasoline. They cant all the the same.

 

look for one that is NON solvent based.

 

I need to correct my earlier post:

It was not RTV that I used. It was the stuff you dip tools in. Useless for the job.

 

+1 on that MiCarl...

 

This is the stuff I use: http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail. ... pe%20(Home)&ProductSSCat=

Now you've got me worried; I'll have to go back and check on a couple of repairs.

Meanwhile, I've got an old battery lead boot I fixed with it; I'll drop it in a cup of gasoline overnight and see what happens.

Never had an issue with it; but I never really subjected it to any serious testing either. Stay tuned.

 

fitz did you do the test? I bought liquid electric tape from home depot and it failed miserably in gas overnight

 

I have confirmation on this.
I pulled my carbs apart yesterday to find the liquid electrical tape had turned to sludge. Im still thinking the the "Seal All" in the yellow tube did a lot better if used on the end of a pencil to blot the pin holes.

 

well, I ordered the StarBrite and the test has commenced. BillB, which product did you use exactly?

 

Performix Liquid electrical tape.
I needed it right away and it runs $6 a container.

 

Diaphragm Rubber Repair:

Clean the Rubber with isopropyl alcohol.
Apply MASKING TAPE to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the Repair.
(Holding the tear together > Perfectly.
Cut a small Funnel to act as a form.
Tape the Rubber to the Form.
Make sure Rubber is not buckled or wrinkled.

Salvage some "Repair Material"
(I used a small section of Material cut from a Nylon Windbreaker)

Cut-out a PATCH of Repair Material to COVER the TEAR.
Coat the Rubber over the TEAR with a thin coat of LIQUID Electrical Tape.

>> Quickly apply the Patch with TWEEZERS and "Iron-Out" any Air Bubble or wrinkle with a BIC Ball Point Pen (Cover and Blunt End)
Smooth-out Patch.
You don't get much time to do this.

Once Dry:
Apply 2nd Coat of Liquid Electrical Tape.
When 1st side is dry ... repeat process on other side of Rubber ...
BUT
Don't Stick Tape on the Repair ... Just Smooth the Diaphragm Rubber Out.

November 23, 2009
"The RickCoMatic Patch"

Additional Notes:

You can make a "Form" from a Small Funnel
Cut the Neck of the Funnel off allowing the Outside Diameter of the Diaphragm Piston to Fit.

::: The Repair needs as little Liquid Tape as will do the job.
::: The Repair also needs FABRIC reinforcement
::: Light-weight 100% Dacron-Polyester works GREAT
::: Before you begin, borrow your wife's pack of toothpicks
::: Cut the Dabber of the Lid of the Liquid Tape
::: Cut a 5-Inch length of Wire Coat Hanger to use as a dispenser of small quantities of Liquid Tape. You only need to use a few drops at a time.
It cures ==> FAST. Once it starts to "Pull" ... quit and replenish.
::: A half-inch stack of Post-It-Notes serves as an excellent "Palette".
When the Liquid Tape you working with pulls ... rip-of the top Post-It and start anew.
::: You can prevent your Brush from loading-up, ... IF ... you scrape and rinse it in Lacquer Thinner or Carb Cleaner ==> B-E-F-O-R-E the Product Cures.

If you get some on good clothes, ... here's what will get it out.
Nothing.

Funnel Form & Diaphragm Assembly

 

Sounds like a great fix for a large tear. Thanks!
Pinholes would require less thought.