Engine finishes ... what's the concensus?

A recent post included this photo of Fitz' awesome looking engine ...

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93 ... e_plug.jpg

What's the consensus on engine finishes?

Here's what I've used with some success in the past and plan to do on the XJ900 ...

Valve cover ... satin black (CeraKote, similar to GunKote)
Head ... wet bead blast, natural finish
Barrels ... satin black (CeraKote)
Cases ... wet bead blast, clear gloss enamel
Covers ... per cases
Exhaust headers/pipes ... satin black (CeraKote)

I love the shiny look of Fitz' bike but don't have the dedication to keep it that shiny ... the glass bead blast plus clear gloss enamel comes up pretty good with a wash and dry, and can be refinished when it gets all scratched up, but it's nowhere near as eye-catching as some polished bling.


Ideas/preferences/experiences/pics anyone ??

 

My Bike was a Midnight Max.
The whole Plant was painted black.

I stripped all the Black of the Plant with Airplane Spray-on stripper.
There are a few shadows where I couldn't get too.

If I had it to-do all-over again, ...
I'd have the Plant:
Glass Bead Blasted clean.
Plastic Bead Blasted smooth.
Walnut Shell Blasted finished.

 

Rick did you strip it with the engine still assembled or when in bits? If you wanted to bead blast it wouldn't you have to completely dissemble it? I've never liked going near an assembled engine with a bead blaster, that grit gets into the tiniest openings.

Also what's the go with the plastic beads? I've used the walnut shells but have never heard of plastic bead blasting. Does it smooth out the bumps or something? Any details on the type of plastic or size would be great.

 

Plastic Beads are uses to strip nooks and crannies you don't want to erode with Glass Beads. Raised Lettering, Stamped Marks and Indicators aren't obliterated by Plastic.

I stripped the Mill in place.
I masked-off the frame with Newspaper, Saran Wrap, Aluminum Foil and a Top layer of Newspaper.

Some of the stripping got done with Q-Tips.
But, there's still little spots that never shed the paint.

The PO "Blacked" the whole bike with a Rattle Can.
It took all Winter to get rid of the "Midnight"
I even sanded-off the Faux-gold Plating on the Seat rail, Side Covers and Peg-ends.

That Plating deteriorated and split and lifted-off in some places.
Getting what was not damaged off took hours of sanding with a Pneumatic Duel-action Sander and a whole roll of 320.

 

Rick, would the mini soda blaster that was posted on here this week work for some precision work on the engine?

I cant see why that would not work. Give it a look. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... sting.html

 

what's the prep for cerakote? i've used gunkote on a lot of things, some 120 grit blasted some not, some taken apart some not.
your natural aluminum would take less care if you did it with stainless or silver, if you like the look

 

Prep for Cerakote is pretty much the same as for Gunkote, 120 to 240 grit garnet blast at 75psi, no recycle. It needs something a bit aggressive for a good mechanical key because there is a much weaker chemical bond than you get with a regular metal etching primer which still works even on a mirror polish.

Cerakote and Gunkote appear to be very similar products only I can't get Gunkote out here because it is a declared dangerous product for shipping so nobody imports it. I found a guy who brings in 200 litre drums of Cerakote and decants it into 120ml cans for me. They cost $45 each but it goes a long way. It's like an opaque thinner, runs like water in the can and goes on about 0.001 inch thick for a full black cover. I'm toying with the idea of doing the entire engine in it. It's so tough I reckon you could use it on bolt heads as well.

The natural aluminium is the worst finish for maintenance that's for sure, that's why I like the clear enamel over it, a good wash and dry and it looks ok.