Help Please Front brake drag

Hello
I replaced my front brake pads a few hundred miles ago and have noted that sometimes the caliper drags and the pad squeaks when slowing and sometimes I have to rock the bike to get the front to release drag after sitting. But it always loosened up and rolled free when rolling it a short distance.
This morning I went to ride it to work and when I started it up the Brake light stayed on the LCD and It was hard to roll it out of the shed. I go it free and move it to the driveway and packed it with my stuff for the day. I started down the driveway and when I slowed at the end the front brake dragged hard and did not release. I had to turn it around and that was not easy with the brake drag. I got it back to the shed with alot of help from the engine and not with out dumping it on the wet lawn from the tire locking. Ouch my leg still hurts. That is the first time I had it down!
Anyway I just got home and went out and rolled it back and it was not dragging that bad. I moved it into the garage and now am not sure what to look at or fix.
I know that the caliper or the brake line or the XJ1100 proportioning valve can be an issue so what do I do look at first? Or what else do I need to look at? Did I install the pads wrong?

Thanks

 

sounds like the rotor is sticking in the caliper, could be lines colasping due to age, are they rubber lines and if so whats the dot date on them?
and also i assume your reservor is not overfilled when you replaced the brakes, it does pump more fluid back into the resevore so could be simply overfilled and not releasing pressure it needs too.

 

I will check the reservoir and I know that the lines are old like 1982 old. How do I test the lines? I can't afford new lines at this time and want to see if they are the problem at this point.

Thanks

 

What you need to do is rebuild the calipers and the master cyllinder. You've got moisture, crud or air in a caliper and when it gets hot it expands and starts dragging; and as you've discovered, can even lock the wheel. The behavior will be erratic; the only real solution is a caliper rebuild, and probably the master cylinder as well.

The point mentioned above about the lines is valid; the original brake lines were supposed to last 4 years; the rubber parts in the caliper and master cylinder, 2 years. Check your brake lines for date codes; if original they need to be replaced ASAP as well.

You can't just pop a new set of pads into a 30-year old brake system and have it work correctly; there's a lot more to it.

 

Any ideas what might cause them to drag only when the calliper mounting bolts are fully torqued? I just replaced my pads and burned out one of my rotors because one of the two callipers was dragging the whole time. If I release the bolts it loosens right up, as soon as it's tightened it starts dragging. While putting them on I accidentally torqued the bolts to 35 instead of 25 (looked at specs for 1982 instead of 83) could this have caused the problem?
Also, does a rotor have to be replaced if it has turned blue from the heat?

 

I would replace the rotor. Blueing of the metal means that the temper has changed. It can no longer be trusted. It could crack or even shatter because it has become brittle from hardening. As Bigfitz says, rebuild the entire system.

The overtightened bolts should be replaced or at least very carefully examined. They could be stretched which will weaken them. If you have new bolts or ones that weren't over-torqued, compare the length of the bolts and the diameter of the grip area ( the part between the thread and the head ). If its stretched this area will be thinner. Having said all of that, if at all possible replace them.

 

Time to rebuild the caliper and master cylinder. It's not a difficult job. The hardest two parts are:

1. getting the piston out of the caliper bore
2. getting the C-clip out of the master cylinder

and NOTE: it is NOT hard to do either of those.

Dave Fox

 

Yeah, I've got the master cylinder rebuild kit and the required circlip pliers, but was putting off the caliper rebuild and the new rotors because of cost (rotors were at the very edge of spec for both thickness and warpage). Looks like it's no longer an option though

Pay a little now or a lot later. Should have taken that advice. I at least could have avoided the $400 hit for rotors for a little while.

Thank you all very much for the help.

 

You should be able to get a decent set of used rotors here for a much better price. Heck, I think I have a set on an earlier virago front that I believe are the same thing. Do your homework, check dimensions and let me know. I'll check mine then, and I'll also check the interchange stuff that I have, too.
PM me.

Dave Fox

 

I just did a cross-ref, and I don't think the parts will swap. Looks like only XJ1100 rotors fit.

Dave