FJ600 cam chain adjustment

I thought I saw a thread on cam chain adjustment that showed them lining up the timing marks under the LH cover. I can't seem to find it now.

The Haynes manual just says to loosen the lock-nut, then re-tighten.

Should I rotate the endgine CCW a couple of times, line of the mark with the "C" and THEN loosen the lock-nut?

Bike is an '85 FJ600.

 

Correct. If you have the manual type adjuster, with a bolt/locknut sticking out the side (you do,) you set the pointer on "C" then loosen the locknut, then the bolt. Tap on tensioner body. Tighten bolt to spec; tighten nut to spec. Tip: a 12mm deepwell socket slides right over the smaller head of the bolt, to allow you to loosen/tighten the nut without disturbing the bolt.

 

Excellent. Thanks for the info!

One other thing....is there oil in the cover I need to remove? I know some bike bathe that area in oil and some don't. Do I need to drain the oil before removing the timing cover?

 

Nope. It better be dry; however it IS a "gasketed" cover and you will likely destroy the original upon removal. I'd recommend having a replacement on hand.

Also: Between the washer under the nut on the adjuster release bolt, and the body of the adjuster there is a small o-ring. The washer "mashes" this o-ring into a slight relief cut into the bore for the bolt. If you notice there is a bit of an oil "mist" developing in the area, it may have been mashed one too many times. You'd never even realize there was an o-ring there until you go to dig it out. XJ4Ever has them; it's the same PN as the 550s.

If it's NOT leaking, leave it be. Fix it when it begins to leak. (It will.)

One more nifty tidbit about these bikes: If you've got clutch work to do, pop it on the sidestand. If your oil level was correct, you won't lose nary a drop. (Be sure not to drop anything in the bottom of the clutch cavity; it'll go right into the sump.)

 

Installed a new UNI filter in the stock air box, adjusted cam chain and set the idle to 1200 rpm today. Man! What a difference!

A lot of the noise I was hearing and THOUGHT was valve train noise was too low of idle and a noisy cam chain. The valves were done ~5,500 miles ago, so I didn't go there yet.
Bike starts easier, idles MUCH better and is WAY more quiet than before.

 

Umm...

Valve adjustment interval is 5000 miles after the initial check at 3K.

If your valves were done 5500 miles ago; you're due--- NOW.

I just did mine again; the bike now has 6200 miles on it since I put it back on the road. I had put all the valves in spec when I got the bike (8 of 8 were tight.) Now, at just over 5000 miles since, I had one that was out of spec tight.

Gotta check them every 5000 miles.

 

The owners manual and both shop manuals I have say every 8,000 miles.

 

I stand corrected. The 5000 mile interval must only apply to the earlier aircooled motors; although I can't see what the difference is.

You sure it doesn't say to do it at 3000, then at 8000 then every 5000 thereafter? That's how the earlier books' charts are set up.

 

I'll go back and double check. I know that there's an initial, early adjustment, but after that I think it was every 12,000 Km/8,000 miles.