Tools

Somewhere around here I saw a post listing the basic tools necessary for most maintenance, can anyone link me to it (I cannot find it)?

Or else, can someone tell me approximately what I'll need in order to check the valves and rear brakes?

Thanks,
Seth

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... carry.html tools

 

Valves: 5mm "Allen" wrench(es) including a bit for your torque wrench; and a long-pattern 5mm Allen to get at the inner cover bolts. A primarily metric feeler gauge, K-D Tools' #2274 is widely available;

A "micrometer" style torque wrench that goes down to small specs (it needs to be an in/lb, not ft/lb wrench.) You'll need it all over the bike;

Rear brakes: A BIG torque wrench, to get the axle nut to 76 ft/lb or thereabouts; a 22mm socket for the axle nut;

A new cotter pin for both the rear axle nut and the brake torsion rod;

A pair of beefy needle nose or other pliers plus side cutters to remove the cotter pins and trim the new ones;

The rest would depend on which bike you have, which you didn't tell us and isn't in your sig. Chain driven bikes (550/600) have different requirements than the shafties.

 

A 3/8 drive click style in lb torque wrench and a 1/2 drive needle style ft lb torque wrench have sufficed for me. Those 1/2 click types can cost some $$$

 

I have a 1/4 inch in inch lb torque wrench and a 3/8 in and 1/2 in torque wrenches in foot lbs.an never have too many torque wrenchs!

 

I know this is slightly off topic, but how often do you have to have your click-type torque wrenches calibrated and what is the cost?

 

You could check it yourself using a 12 inch bar & spring scales.

 

Just a quick side note on torque wrenches, some people don't know, if you use them to LOOSEN bolts, you WILL mess up the calibration/break the wrench.

Only TIGHTEN with torque wrenches.

 

KrS14 is mostly right. you can use it to loosen a bolt torqued to the same or lower as what the wrench is currently set to. (never happens in the real world but worth noting) If it clicks while trying to loosen a nut or bolt with it, STOP and either set it higher or get a more appropriate tool.

Always reset the click type to zero when putting it away. spring fatigue, just like long term storage of firearm magazines unloaded.

you can set the click type to a given setting, put it gently in a bench vise to lend the needed extra hand, hook up appropriate sockets and drive a spring bar type against it. If it clicks just as the spring bar one reaches what you had set it to then it's fine. We have a few at the shop for specific tasks that are just permanently left set for the tasks their designated for. we check 'em this way twice a year or so.

 

Id add a good set of metric sockets + wrenches (not the el cheapo ones), JIS screwdrivers don't hurt either unless you are planning on stripping and replacing every effin screw on the bike. Also easy outs... can't forget about them....

 

impact driver for undoing phillips all over the place. A few shares of Fastenal stock for replacing everything with SS SHCS.

 

Ooohhh.... how can we forget a big tub of anti-sieze?????