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Fuel dripping from YICS port

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Massimo33, Sep 16, 2011.

  1. Massimo33

    Massimo33 Member

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    I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this already, but I went to synch everything up today, let the bike warm up and the shut it down, to hook up the synch gauge. When I went to restart it, it was very stubborn (1st time for that), got it running and synched it. I then remembered that the YICS tool was not in place, when I unscrewed the bolt, fluid started to drip out, which smelled like fuel.

    So onto the obvious: my floats are not set right, right?

    Just wanted to make sure the guru's concur or feel it is something else.

    Thanks!
     
  2. RudieDelRude

    RudieDelRude Member

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    I would think its a stuck float valve, or its not seating correctly, if its pouring enough to flood the yics port
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Sure, ... Float Heights have a lot to do with it.
    But before enough gas gets up that high from traveling down from the Tank, into the Bowls, through leaking or incorrectly adjusted Floats and then rise and begin filling the YICS and Crankcase ...

    The Petc0ck has to let it.

    TEST the Petc0ck for Leaking-by.
    Be sure the Petc0ck's Selector Lever is not on PRIME.

    An inexpensive Insurance Precautionary Mod will prevent Gas from flooding the Plant through a faulty Petc0ck or aging Float Valves.

    A Briggs & Stratton Fuel Line Shut-Off Valve: $11.00
    Install it right next to the Petc0ck.
    Shuts the Fuel OFF.

    (Left): Briggs & Stratton Valve / (Right): Installed
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Massimo33

    Massimo33 Member

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    At the moment I am using an auxiliary tank that I borrowed from a friend. It only has a on/off valve. Could that be the problem? Fuel being gravity force fed into the carbs?
     
  5. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    No, the floats should still stop it.
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    no matter where it comes from gas shouldn't come out there, when it's running it's a vacuum leak
     
  7. badfish502

    badfish502 Member

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    Usually Rick is super spot-on with his advice but to me the Briggs valve,while it would stop the fuel, is butt ass ugly and kinda redundant. I can see using it if you just absolutely had to keep the OEM petcock. Othwise I ask, "Why not just get a new petcock?"

    If you go to the Yamaha dealer (orvf chapparel) you can get a brand new petcock for $27.00! You ask for one off a 1997 YZ125/250. It WILL ELIMINATE YOUR RESERVE FEATURE, othwise it is a perfect functional NEW non leaky replacement...

    I turn mine off while engine running as Im putting it on the centre-stand to burn a smidge outta the bowls, B4 I shut it off.

    Now I have a period correct-looking, functional petcock for $27 that doesnt leak and takes all of 5 mins to install... I sanded my tank down to bare steel where the petcock attaches and used Yamabond/1104 on the oring and it sealed superbly. I put the petcock on and scribed around the flange so I could cleanly remove the paint ONLY under the flange which you cant even tell, the gasket/oring thing hides it....

    Wow that was a long rambling post...Looks like my medication got to me a bit, I apologize for that. Strong medical cannabis!

    Cheers y'all.

    Jay
    *just flipped 7000 miles today*
    Bought w/3100 miles, so 3900 miles since June :)
     
  8. Militant_Buddhist

    Militant_Buddhist Member

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    how high up were you hanging/holding the aux tank? float needles and seats that work fine and dandy for a stack of fuel maybe a foot high won't seal when you hang that that aux bottle from the ceiling, I won't pretend to give you real numbers only ratios, hanging the bottle three times higher than the original gas tank location triples the pressure on those seals. Just sayin. Some bailing wire or whatever to dangle the aux tank down to at or near handlebar height MIGHT be all you need.
     
  9. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    We had a thread about this a few weeks ago. The surface area on the needles is so small and the float has so much leverage this isn't a practical concern at all.

    I routinely set up carburetors with a tank that is hanging from an 8ft. ceiling.

    Your floats are either out of adjustment or you have a leak. Period.
     
  10. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I have been a Champion of getting a NEW Petcock to prevent flooding for a long, long time.

    I have said, as you point-out, ... a NEW Petcock -- in view that the old one lasted 25 years -- makes more sense than buying a KIT and possibly getting an ill fitting aftermarket part that requires entirely too much time and effort to install ... only to find-out it >>>MIGHT<<< leak worse than before you tried to fix it.

    After installing a Briggs Shut-off; with a little effort you can virtually make the Shut-off Valve disappear.

    Break-off the slack on the hose clamps.
    "Paint" the hose clamps and most of the the RED Plastic Valve with Black Nail Polish.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Massimo33

    Massimo33 Member

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    Cool, thanks for the replies, looks like they're coming back off, and i was so hoping to get it right the first time. Wishful thinking i guess. Back into the fray... :p
     
  12. Militant_Buddhist

    Militant_Buddhist Member

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    indeed. i missed that thread and when I actually thought about it for longer than it took me to type out the same occurred to me. I went off half cocked there, mia culpa
     
  13. Massimo33

    Massimo33 Member

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    Okay, so I'm at a bit of a loss here, I checked my floats this morning and the levels checked out fine (level side to side, slight kick forward to mimic position on bike). An auxiliary tank is hooked to them right now and there is no evidence of a leak anywhere.

    Any thoughts?
     
  14. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You set float levels with the carbs completely level in all directions. The spec takes into account the angle they will end up at. Your float levels may still be off.

    -OR-

    You have a float that only hangs up SOMETIMES.

    -OR-

    You might be looking at a non-issue. HOW MUCH "fluid" dripped out of the YICS chamber? Have you cleaned out the YICS chamber/passage lately?
     
  15. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    You can do two thing that may help.

    Check the Geometry of the Float Tang and the Pin suspended from it, ... watching it movement in the Float Valve as you raise and lower the Floats.
    If the Float Pin gets "C0ckeyed", ... try moving the Wire Guide to the other side of the Tang.

    Dress the Float Valve Bores.

    Roll a section of 2500 Finishing Paper into a tight-fitting roll.
    Cut the bottom off ... Square.
    Wet with WD40 and twist it in the Float Valve Seats.
    Cut a fresh section of 2500 for each bore.
     
  16. Massimo33

    Massimo33 Member

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    I think I finally got it. Whew!

    Fitz, thanks for the float advice and the mention that it may be a random stuck float.

    Rick, thanks for suggesting polishing the float valve bores, also switched two tangs, wasn't sure, but what the hey...

    The auxiliary tanks was hooked up all afternoon, with no noticeable drop (level line marked on tank), engine ran fine, no sign of fuel in YICS port

    Also thanks to everyone who posted, can never have enough info when making a diagnosis
     

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