YICS Eliminator

What do you think about this tool. YICS Eliminator.

What really caught my attention is the estatement about that reading plugs can be done accurately with this tool. Plus the bike can be ridden with it.


Is it true that with the YICS passage is inaccurate?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YICS-Eli ... ccessories

What do you think?

Carvall

 

You need the YICS tool to tune.... don't know about leaving it in though.....

 

I have one home made and I was looking for one well made and I ran into this. Seems more pratctical than the tool it self.

 

yeah I was looking at that too. Len has a real one for about $50 with shipping. I figure better to spend the extra couple bucks.

 

I saw this to for 36.00 what is really interesting is that you can leave it inside.
http://ootfab.webhop.net/xj/products/YICS-R.html

We need the expert opinion of Chacal or Bigfitz or anyone who may have the experience with this tool.

 

If you have the YICS system, you need to block the ports so that the carbs can be properly syncd. I used the YICS tool (same one in the picture) to sync my carbs. Although the post says you can leave it in, I'm not sure why you would. Some of the more technical folks here could probably give an explanation(or direct you to a post) of how the YICS system works but I'd think that if you left it in the engine, you would be defeating the benefits of the YICS design.

 

I am not thinking of leaving it inside permanently just for tunning purposes.

This eliminates the need of taking out and putting it in again a few times.

OldSchoolOtter did you actually bought that one?

 

Yes, I did. Although, I forget exactly how much it was, I think it was around the $25-$30 range.

Sorry, this is the one I bought, not the one with the latch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YICS-Eli ... ccessories

 

The one in this link is NOT a "leave it in" tool at all; it has a big beefy latching handle machined from billet aluminum. It's simply another copy of the real thing (as is chacal's) and it looks like they at least got the configuration right (it has a seal against the side of the cylinders at the "handle" end.)

How long it takes the cutesy "carbon fiber" to burn is another story; I know for a fact that brass doesn't.

The whole "leave it in" concept is ridiculous in my view.

 

Bigfitz the one we are talking about is this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YICS-Eli ... ccessories

 

THAT one is bad ju-ju. Unless you actually buy into the "blocking YICS forever" idea. I certainly don't; YICS is magic and I'm not about "eliminating" it.

The other problem with the whole concept behind this or any "leave it in" tool is that whatever is being used for sealing cannot live in there "forever" it will get burnt to a crisp eventually. Probably sooner than later; the YICS passages get close to combustion chamber temps.

The proper tool gets left in long enough to accomplish the task at hand and then removed before it can get baked to death.

 

Bigfitz I guess we are lost in translation. I am not thinking on leaving the tool permanently. I believe in those engineers that createed this piece of art. I love my bike the way it is.

I guess my question is more about wich one would be more practical for the whole purpose of tunning or in this case syncing?

 

sorry Bigfitz im not tring to contradict you here, this is just for information purposes. Carbon fiber is one of the best composites for heat resistance and it is used in many important areas like spacecraft and missiles not to mention firefighters suits because the coefficient of thermal expansion is very low and can withstand up to 5000 f that to me is not cute but tough enough.

 

That's cool. The tool you posted this link to: http://ootfab.webhop.net/xj/products/YICS-R.html is of the proper configuration to do the job as is the one chacal sells.

This type (with the big "latch handle" pushing against a nice fat seal) is the correct type to do the job. It is, as claimed, a direct replica of the factory tool; and virtually the same one chacal sells except for the billet handle and carbon fiber. Carbon fiber comes in lots of different "flavors" some of which are less heat resistant than others. Brass works just fine too. What's truly important is the heat resistance of the rubber "expando-plugs" and having a seal on the open outside end.

The "leave it in" STYLE is incorrect for pretty much anything. There's no practical improvement over the correct factory-style tool.

 

You're right! I gues is better to go with Chacal's without taking a risk. I need to learn to do that more.

Thanks everybody for your input.

 

Since I'm a newbie and don't know much about the engines or YICS system, I'm not going to mess with that part of this thing, but I DO need to do some tuning on my carbs and need a YICS tool to do it. I've been looking at both of these tools and haven't decided which to buy, yet.

Here's how I see it......

The "eliminator" tool uses viton o-rings, and a I noticed that a few guys here are concerned that they may melt in the heat of the engine. I wouldn't worry about that with viton. Just about every manufacturer uses viton to make engine o-rings because it CAN take the heat. On EVERY jet engine that I work on (Everything from Rolls-Royce, Pratt & Whitney, Lycoming, and General Electric) - ALL the o-rings and seals are made of viton, and our Yamahas won't make anything like that amount of heat - the engine case would melt first, but you'd still have good o-rings!

On the other one - Carbon fiber will burn (if it's at a high enough temp - but again, I wouldn't worry about that with our engines), but it can't melt, and will take the heat pretty easily. I'd be more worried about the rubber seals than the carbon fiber. Although he does say that the seals are silicone (high temp undoubtedly) and good for 600* - should be more than enough. I also like the lever idea - good leverage and makes it easy to remove, instead of needing to use another tool to get it out.

I think either one would be perfectly OK, and both look like quality items. Whether you plan on leaving it in permanently would be a major deciding factor, but if you're just using it for tuning, the price would be a major factor to me.

 

Your best bet is either the "proper" tool replica, or a rag rope soaked in oil.

 

just for the sake of argument, i won't say anything