ok now i really need help. 2 problems...big pop!/reving high

i just switched out my handle bars. they were black it wouldnt start, i grounded it and now it starts, not a problem. except now when it starts it revs its self pretty high so i adjust it and sometimes it will rev just a little. if i take off the throttle and just try pulling it with my hand it will rev normal but stay high and wont come down.

problem two, i just started it and as soon as it started there was a huge loud POP from one of my mufflers. idk what that is and im scared to start it again...

 

Raw fuel getting into the hot exhaust will cause a backfire. POP!

My guess is:

Grounded not quite good enough causing electrical power outage.
Throttle open and motor MOVING but not running (no spark) leaves the vacuum open to draw fuel into the cylinder.
No spark so fuel is not getting burnt.
Fuel exits exhaust valve, dumping into the warm/hot exhaust pipes.
Hot exhaust ignites raw fuel.
Ignited fuel get forced out the only opening, the muffler, just like a blackpowder rifle.
Hence the BOOM.

Ground the kill switch better and problem should be solved.

 

Is your throttle cable binding or pinching somewhere?

 

The POP was a "backfire" (more like afterburn) that happened because you managed to puddle fuel in the exhaust sytem.

You've screwed up your cable routing in the process of changing out the bars, guaranteed. The throttle cable is crossed over somewhere, or you've created a kink.

HOW "switched out?" Seriously lower, or ??? If you've changed the bars sigificantly, you'll need to do some re-routing. On the 550s, I put the throttle cable over a crossbar (under the tank) that it went under before, and it actually fits BETTER than the factory position. You may need to pull the tank, and pay attention to what you're doing, to get it straightened back out. (Literally and figuratively.)

What's going on with the "choke" (enrichment) cable? Did a similar situation occur with that cable causing your enrichment plungers to not be closed fully?

Slow down, back up and take a close look at what you just changed. You'll figure it out. Like I said, you may need to pop the tank off.

 

Ah, yes, cable routing also. I was assuming same size bars. My bad, at least I only made an ass of me and not you.

 

i dont have a siphon to get the gas out, dont suppose its possible to get the tank off without taking the gas out?

 

A full tank is 24 pounds heavier than empty.

You have a garden hose?? Drain the water, one end into the low corner, one end near a clean bucket. Apply mouth vacuum. Good way to remove sediment and water.

 

If you don't have the valve set on "Prime" & providing your petcock is any good, you should be able to get the hoses off and lift the tank off of the frame.

MN

 

Yup, I just leave the petcock in the ON pos and pull the hoses. install an inline fuel filter at the same time if you haven't already.

 

Ok, so i figured something out tell me if im on to something. My throttle doesnt really snap back like it used it, so im going to go adjust that throttle cable piece so it snaps back, should that fix the problem?
cause there arent any kinks or bends.

 

Lube the cable and make sure it does not have any "tight" bends

MN

 

Bingo!

 

You should be able to, at the least, wiggle the cable freely at all points. If there is a spot where it does not have any movement, that is a potential binding spot.

 

The cable it out pretty much on its own away from everything else. i adjusted the throttle cable to where it would snap back and everything seemed fine and dandy til i just took it out... i wore my helmet though.

it drove normal for a block, than i noticed i would throttle up and it wouldnt accelerate with the power it used to. than the RPM would stay high and slowly come down and than by the end of my trip 5 blocks its back to revving as soon as i turn on the bike.... im pretty sure its going to the mechanic tomorrow this is way over what little knowledge i have. Is there anybody from Southern Utah that knows of a good place or that i can pay to help?

 

Did the throttle cable get sharply bent anywhere? It's possible that you may need a new cable. Is the cable too short now that you have the new handlebars? I know there will be plenty of slack when you turn to the right, but does it get tight when you turn to the left? Or vise versa. There needs to be slack or it will bind up.... and that will be super dangerous to drive.

 

they are drag bars so i actually have tons of slack.

 

As I suspected.

You now have "way too much" cable, and you're binding somewhere AND/OR have caused a similar issue with the CHOKE cable.

You need to pull the tank, and closely look at your new cable routing. All that "excess" has to go somewhere and if not done "gracefully" will cause problems, as you've discovered.

 

Shit, I finally thought I got it but I just rode it and it had no power beyond like 3000 RPM. What did i screw up this time? 2 months of riding this bike and I have messed up this bad, I don't think i was meant for motorcycle riding.

Everything seemed normal until i got out on the main road and tried opening it up, once I tried giving it gas and it just ran the RPM up with very very little power. Now its back firing a lot too.

Daaaaaamnit

 

Gee, it sounds like how it would run if the choke is still partly on...

Did you pull the tank and straighten out the cable routing for not only the throttle cable but the choke cable as well, as recommended?

 

Im going to go swap back to stock.

 

Fitz, you win. You were absolutely correct. I swapped back to stock bars and vuala! Now, I spent money on those damn drag bars and I want them on. Am I going to have to buy shorter cables or just spend some time with the tank off routing them?

 

That's not such a big transition, careful cable routing will get it sorted.