final drive questions?

hi

i have my final drive taken off the bike. how does one pull the driveshaft out? repair manual is not very specific about this?

second, i think the driveshaft is suppose to have play but how much? i have about 10-15mm at the u-joint end? it does go in and out against the spring in the final drive end.

i would like to take it apart for cleaning and painting.. would you guys leave the things inside alone and do the job with a rattlecan?

other thing stopping me is i cant find the bearings and seals anywhere. i bet chacal has them off to check it out

 

no opinions / experience on this?

 

hey also the bigger gear - or the big bearing under it doesnt want to rotate like id suppose a bearing would, also makes a rough sound..

come on hasnt anyone taken the final drive apart?

 

their kind of reliable units and used ones are easy to find over here, that's why there's not much experience with them.
how much would it cost to get one shipped from here to you?

 

maybe 50 dollars idk.

i could find one here, or germany for sure. easier on the s&h

im not sure if i want one though

 

So get the spare final drive and put it on the bike.

Then take your original unit, start taking pictures, and create a writeup on how to tear it down. I'd download it.

 

My advise to you is leave it for a qualified Yamaha tech to work on. Dis-assembly may require special tools. Also the ring and pinion gears are machined as a matched set, so caution is also advised here. Better yet, if you have a problem with your drive it is cheaper to replace with a used unit rather than let a greedy mech get ahold of it.

 

If you have to replace bearings, you have to re-shim to get the clearances right, and that's a tedious job and you need a variety of shims.

Buying a low-mile unit is a piece of cake.

 

The Yamaha FACTORY Workshop Manual has a Section devoted to Overhauling the Final Drive Unit.

Servicing the Drive requires Special Tooling, Dial Indicators, Hydraulic Press, a Sturdy Workbench with Vice and hours of Intensive Labor.

Given the near foolproof engineering that went into the Drives design; the Unit rarely needs anything more than periodic changes of Gear Oil.

The cost-effective measure for the average owner-operator who experiences some problem with the Final Drive becomes replacing the Drive with a used Drive known to be without faults.

Japan exported a Tsunami of Bikes with these Drives to Europe.
You should have no difficulty finding a Breaker who will ship you a salvaged Yamaha Final Drive at a reasonable price plus freight.

 

yes thank you all i have one on the way. hopefully its better than the one i have.

i may take my original unit apart someday if i get to understand the reshimming process

 

Which special tools, by the way, it goes on to explain aren't available and then proceeds to give you the dimensions if you have to have them made. Apparently the factory didn't really expect anyone, dealers even, to be breaking into them.

 

Yes, both. If you have to ask how, you probably shouldn't be doing it.
Do you have an inch/ounce torque meter? Goose neck dial indicator?
Good selection of machinist instruments, and the experience to use them?
If so, or, like me, you figure that it is screwed up, and you can't make it any less usable than it is, go here and educate your self.

<http://www.yamaha-triples.org/library/misc/shaftdrivemanual/ShaftDriveManual.pdf>

By the way, one gallon steel paint cans are .010 inch thick, offset printing plates are .012 to .015 thick. CZ

 

nice link capton thank you very educative. only my final drive is a bit different.

to answer your question yes i have a dial gauge, a torque meter, access to various machinist instruments and i am able to perform a few tasks with them.

thanks for asking

 

I'd still go with a swap and be done with it. Virtually any unit you find is gonna have fewer miles than your original.

 

im still going. the unit is on the way here. its just that id still like to tear the other one apart and have a look at the bearing..

where can i get the factory manual?

 

i got the spare swinger with the final drive unit. 50€ shipped so i am pleased.

the problem now is that the rear shock bolt is different look

heres my original


here is the replacement


the bolt that is in the final drive casing presents an issue because i want to do something like this


..and still be able to take it apart.

im thinking of completely draining the unit and give the casing some heat around the bolt?

 

all the ones i've seen look like your replacement, i'd say make the bracket fit the bike

 

+1. I have been messing around with drive units. Final statement: leave drive unit alone, mess with something else.

 

I've had only ONE final drive fail - and that was on my (late) GL 500 with 16,000 showing. The tire side oil seal failed while riding, essentially ruining the unit. I got hosed at a "breakers" - - parts and labor was $200.

Today I could have got one from E-Bay and installed myself for under $50.00
Other than that bad experience, I think final drives are pretty much bulletproof.

 

well put p.g. but i had to mess with it.

bolt came off.

just posted for future generations