Seca 550 Shift Seal & Clutch

I have a 1982 Seca 550 with about 10,000 miles on it. Bile is pretty clean overall and I am gathering a few minor parts to clean it up even more. Question: I notice that the seal around the shift shaft is leaking some oil. Can this seal be changed without taking the motor apart? Any other suggestions.

Another question: How difficult is it to change the clutch plates and springs on this bike?

Thanks in advance...

 

-Are you talking about where the shifter shaft comes through the cover? Because there isn't a seal there; the seal is on the shifter shaft at the INNER case. That seal can be replaced without tearing the motor apart.

-The clutch is fairly "easy" however it has a couple of things that you need to pay attention to; the plain plates are assymetrical and there's an oddball friction plate. It's covered in great detail here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

-You CANNOT go by "pretty clean overall." The rear brakes on these bikes delaminate with great frequency; you have to LOOK: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

-Valve clearances were often completely overlooked and are critical to the long-term health of your motor. Theu were to have been checked at 3000 miles to begin with; and every 5000 thereafter. If yours have been neglected, you're way overdue. The valves tighten up, not loosen, and ignoring this important maintenance item will eventually result in a burnt valve or two. The procedure is covered here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

The 550 Seca is a great motorcycle, and with proper "recommissioning" can be as safe and reliable as any modern bike, and it's a whole lot more comfortable than an R6.

But you can't just jump on it and start riding it, or you're gonna get bit by "problem after problem."

Get yourself a service manual or two (factory recommended, Clymer OK, combination of both the best.)

And then get started. Here's a basic list:

- check tires, condition, and date codes. These are tubeless tires, anything over 6 years is dangerous.

- inspect wheel rims for damage or excessive runout.

- check front brake pads.

- inspect disc brake calipers for damage, wear (thickness), or excessive warpage/runout.

- VISUALLY check rear brake shoes for wear/delamination; adjust rear brake pedal linkage. This is very important. Delamination is common, the only way to detect it is to SEE it. The link is posted above.

- inspect/lube/adjust/replace final drive chain and sprockets. Keep an eye on the chain. If it "bleeds red" when being lubed and won't hold adjustment, it's rusted internally and will need to be replaced. Always replace both sprockets with a chain.

- check and adjust if needed operation of front and rear brake light switches.

- replace rubber brake hoses (check the mfg date stamped in them). Originally rated to last FOR YEARS. Thirty is pushing it big time.

- unless known to be otherwise, plan on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and caliper(s).

- check and clean/replace the air filter element.

- change all fluids: fork oil, engine oil, and brake fluid.

- check and repair any engine or drivetrain/suspension fluid leaks.

NOTE: almost any original oil seal or engine case gasket will need to be replaced when its cover is removed for the first time.

- check and adjust/lubricate/replace steering head bearings.

- check and adjust/lubricate/control cables and speedometer and tachometer (if applicable) drive cables..

- check and adjust/replace rear shock absorbers.

- electrical system inspection, replace fusebox and most probably alternator brushes.

- check battery condition; replenish fluid (distilled water only!).

- clean the battery terminals.

- check all lights for proper operation and brightness (headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, dash illumination).

- check horns for proper operation and loudness.

- check stator resistance.

- check rotor resistance.

- check battery.

- check coil primary, secondary, plug caps resistance.

- check engine cylinder compression; record your findings.

- check and adjust camchain tensioner.

- check and adjust valve clearances; record your findings.

- drain carbs, check for foreign matter in bowls, install in-line fuel filter.

- check function/operation of fuel petcock; correct any leaks and/or rebuild the petcock if indicated.

-Install a new set of properly gapped NGK D8EA spark plugs.

Then you'll be able to trust it and enjoy it like it was new.

 

You missed one Fitz : purchase new bike.

 

Yup, not where it comes through the cover, coming out of the case. I will order one up and replace it as it seems like they are still available through Yamaha. I have been going through this bike slowly over the summer and will continue though the winter. I've already rebuilt the master cylinder for the front brakes and have replaced the factory brake line with SS lines. Replaced front/rear tires and as long as I was in there, bearings, & brakes front & rear.
I have two low mileage 1982 Seca 550's both in very nice overall condition. One with just shy of 10K miles and the other has 5500 miles. The one with 10K miles needs the front fork seals replaced. Is that a big job? I like to do most of the work myself if possible.

 

Front fork seals are quite simple, especially if you go ahead and dismount the forks from the bike to work on them.

Don't negelect the valve clearances on either of those bikes, the intervals are as I posted.

Both of my 550 Secas are fully recommissioned; take a look in my gallery.