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1982 Seca 750 Front brakes

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by suzukisetz, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    I need some help understanding the front brakes of a 1982 Seca 750 and all of it components because I'm thinking of replacing them with a new setup, possibly on different forks.
     
  2. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    What is it that you need to know? Give us some specifics.
     
  3. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    I'm wondering if it is feasible to remove the current cable operated cylinder with a typical (reservior and cylinder on the handlebars) setup and if that affects the dampening system?
     
  4. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    These bikes are very interchangeable, you can do almost anything, just remember that you need to use a MC that goes with dual disc brakes. You can use an MC from a 750 Maxim. The dampening system will function properly if you bleed them. Also, the cable type system has a tendency to feel spongy and that is due to cable stretch. I had the same system on my BMW R90s, it worked but it was what I had to get used to.
     
  5. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    You hit the nail on the head with the spongy feel and I don't know if I can get past that feeling. So you're telling me if I can obtain a Maxim cylinder and reservoir, as long as it is designed to work with dual calipers, it will work?
     
  6. PTSenterprises

    PTSenterprises Member

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    much of that spongy feel can be attributed to the old brake lines as well. Upgrading to SS lines will help greatly.
     
  7. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    I agree on the stainless steel lines...thank you for the reminder.
     
  8. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    SS lines can't expand so all the pressure is applied - much better feel. Freshly rebuilt MC and caliper, clean fresh fluid, new pads, and proper free-play all help.
     
  9. tskaz

    tskaz Active Member

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    750 Maxim or 650 SECA both had dual front discs with handlebar mounted MC, either setup will work.

    and +1 on going to stainless steel for the lines. You will need a longer line to go to the bars anyway, might as well upgrade.
     
  10. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    I'm convinced that SS lines, new pads, fresh DOT4 fluid, reservoir and cylinder on the the bars will be my best practice to fullfill my wants. Are the SS lines very easy to find? Which would be the best cylinder and res for my application?
     
  11. suzukisetz

    suzukisetz New Member

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    Also, how about a spliter block or is the factory block on the bike sufficient for the lower brake lines?
     
  12. tskaz

    tskaz Active Member

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    Either 750Maxim or 650Seca MC will work just fine, I believe they are the same part # but would have to check the Fiche when I get home.

    But the calipers have to be from the 750. But you should be able to rebuild yours, so all you need are the MC and the lines.

    The distribution block you have will suffice, if it is in good shape.

    Len, a.k.a. chacal, a.k.a. XJ4Ever (upper right banner on the page) will have everything you need. Don't forget banjo bolts or crush washers when you do the install.

    Just PM chacal, explain to him what you want to do, and he'll PM you back with a part/price list.
     
  13. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    TSKAZ has said it all. I just notICEd that you are in MinneSNOWta, My wife and I just escaped there, good luck with Winter, BBBBBRRRRR YUCK!
     
  14. maybe4

    maybe4 Member

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    I'll add this. I thought my brakes were "OK" or good enough but after reading was talked into the new lines. I can say without a doubt that the stopping power is 3X better with new SS lines. there is no expansion at all, just straight to the caliper, pads, and rotor. Best upgrade so far for me.
     
  15. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    Can you do a reverse wheelie Maybe4?
     
  16. tskaz

    tskaz Active Member

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    They are on my bucket list for this winter, along with rebuilding the MC and calipers. Might as well do new pads at the same time.
     
  17. OvenXING

    OvenXING New Member

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    The front brakes are an odd design - a cable-actuated master cylinder working dual single-piston calipers. Some have removed the MC, ground down the cable link/handle pivot and installed a MC from a Yamaha FZ1 with stainless lines. The OEM system should work somewhat decently if everything is right... The OEM fuse panel should be Main [two heavy gauge red wires], Head(light) [red/yellow, brown wires], Signal (lights) [two brown wires], Ignition [red/white, brown wires]. Unless the PO took considerable time to properly tune the individual pod filters (doubt it), you will have some carb rejetting work ahead of you to get the bike to run properly.

    Thanks.
    Oven XING
     
  18. SilverSeca

    SilverSeca Member

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    This one's got me thinking...as my sponges up front have lines that read 'Rubber Japan no57-5 1981'...
     

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