NOT STARTING...PLEASE ADVISE!

I got my starting motor rebuilt recently. She spins like a champ, but it doesn't sound like the flywheel is engaging. I can push start the bike with a little help and it will run, but my starting system is not turning over the engine just making a spin noise at the starting motor.
Other notes:
-bike was ridden every day for two months up until two weeks ago.
-my current oil has 1100 miles but it got very cloudy apparently while she sat, and will be changed when she's running again.
-my voltage on the bike while it's running is 14.45v which sounds like it's healthy.
-voltage with bike off is 12.5 and I tested to cold crank 4 days ago to verify it's also good to go.
Is this indicative of a starter clutch problem? does the flywheel move to engage? When I replace the starting motor it almost feels like you have to get the teeth with it and the flywheel to line up proper before it will sit in there correctly, that can't be true though if my starting motor is free spinning right?
anyway, that's my progress to bringing her back to life. I miss riding.

 

You're thinking "car."

THERE IS NO "TOOTHED" FLYWHEEL. The starter has no "Bendix" and doesn't move a gear into engagement with a flywheel.

The starter uses a "sprag" clutch to engage the jackshaft and turn the engine over; if it's not engaging you have a starter clutch issue.

Let's start with what kind of oil is in the bike. Synthetics, especailly automobile oil, can cause the problem you're describing.

You too-- Start a new thread; don't hijack a 3-year old resurrected one, it's too confusing to keep track of who's who and what's what.

 

Hi all.

Ok, here's my issue. Got a '82 xj1100 maxim and for some reason cylinder 2 aint firing. got spark and compression, and I think I narrowed it down to a fuel flow issue. any suggestions?

 

C'MON now--

Please.

 

Having same issue, but all ive done is replaced battery and plugs.
Once new battery in all I got was lights. Hit start and nothing but dimed lights.

Shall I try all this great advice as well or could my issue be completely different?

 

Xjproblem sounds like a solenoid issue. Had the same problem rebuilt the solenoid and it was fixed. But like big Fitz said this should all be new topics.

 

Hello everyone, this thread seems like a good place for me to start

I've just purchased an 81 XJ650H. I appear to be the 3rd owner. The previous owner bought it as a project but didn't have time for it or any mechanical skill/confidence, so I took it off his hands for $250.

Bike will turn over, but won't start.

Things I have done:
a) Replaced battery, brand new.
b) Checked fuses, all good.
c) Cleaned and properly gapped spark plugs. These things were WAY off. (Still may need to be replaced as they were/are black and sooty.)
d) Checked/cleaned air filter.
e) Checked cylinder compression: C1: 145psi, C2: 140psi, C3: 140psi, C4: 140psi. All with cold engine, elevation 2300ft.

Bike will start with starter fluid, but will not stay running more than a second or two. She does sound nice when she purrs though

I have now taken off the tank and checked the petcock for fuel flow. The fuel will flow out in the PRI position only (because the bike is off). No issue with inline filter.

I am thinking it is a carb issue as the black/sooty plugs indicate too rich a mixture? Also the previous owner got it started a year ago and he said he rode it around his block and the exhaust was black.

Am I headed in the right direction? Any ideas or thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

 

Try new plugs.Once they're fouled, they are shot. Get a new air filter. Even if it appears to be clean, it may still be clogged. Check the choke cable is actuating the plungers on the carbs all the way down. Check the mixture screws. If the factory anti-tamper plugs have been removed, somebody might have got in there & played around. You're probably gonna have to thru the carbs tho, & give em a cleaning and check float levels & such. Luckily, you're at the right place for info on this. Good luck.

 

Yeah rebuild those carbs , get your valves in spec, vac sync and Color tune. That'll probably be what she needs. Also pull off that. Rear wheel and check for brake quality. These rear shoes like to fall apart easily and will lock up the rear wheel and make for a bad day.

 

If it only runs on starting fluid, you have some carb work to do.

But you will need the valves in spec to adjust the carbs once they've been serviced.

Get a manual, you're going to need it.

 

Thanks guys, I was thinking it was the carbs. These look fun. 8O

The previous owner threw in a Haynes for the bike, so along with the forum I am hoping to be in good shape. This place is great!

 

I have been reading Church Of Clean, and I am now feeling more confident.

I have a question, though. How in depth do you all go with REBUILDING these things, specifically what are the standard items to replace? I realize that there is not going to be a standard answer and anything that needs replaced should be replaced, but looking over parts I realize that getting replacement parts for all the carb components x4 could cost a pretty penny. (Vacuum Diaphram and Piston Assembly anyone?)

Are kits like this http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Yamaha-XJ650 ... a-Carb-Kit a good starting point, or should I be prepared for more?

 

By the way, sorry if my question sounds a little amateur hour. I am brand new to the bike world, but this is where my heart has always been and I want to do the job right, and well, and be proud of my work.

 

This guy makes great videos on motorcycle work. It's not specific to your bike (you can find that somewhere else on youtube), but he's very thorough in all aspects of a motorcycle. Here is the link to his carb page.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... ature=plcp

PS: usually you can get away with just a rebuild kit off of ebay unless any of your "housing" is damaged.

 

Well, just did a little recon work to see what I am working with before I start rebuilding/cleaning. Diaphragm piston #1 would not move up and down smoothly, so it is definitely going to need a good cleaning. The float bowls are very dirty too. Diaphragms look like they are in good shape, no tears or cracks. Nice, pliable, and rubber-esque. Diaphragm head cap on #3 is missing a screw, does Chacal sell those?

 

Dirty Carb Bowl #3:

 

It's not the grit in the float bowls that you have to worry about (though don't leav it there !) - it's the blocked jets, air/fuel ways and emulsion tubes. Follow the on-site instructions and have proper carb cleaner and an air line available. Access to an ultra sound cleaner would be good, if unlikely. Do it right and then do it again before reassembling.

I recently thought I'd done a good job on some 550 carbs (slightly different) but had screwed something up. Replacing the carbs with another clean set has transformed it.

 

The emulsion tubes, diaphragm pistons, cylinders, and needles were all covered in a very thick, sticky, lime green goop. What is this crud? No wonder my bike wouldn't start!

Before:



After:

 

Looks like oxide from being in contact with bad gas (water in gas) and collected on the tubes. Pour the gas in a mason jar and let it sit uninterrupted and I'd bet you see water when it settles and separates.

 

Oh, the gas that was in the tank is long gone. The bike was bone dry when I bought her. I'm definitely going to clean out the tank before I start her up after cleaning the carbs. Preferred methods anyone?

 

In the same boat and similar mileage too

 

well palmer650, It sounds to me like 1 of 3 things is happening.

1. Your carbs are leaking at the bowl ontop of the carbs there is an o ring in each carb that goes bad. Causing the fuel to leak down the caarb by the filter.

2are you jetted properly for your elevation, i.e. did ur dad live in montana and u took th bike back to nj. Cuz that could cause a random starting problem. Cold days it will start hot muggy days it wont.

3. The last one i could think off is a combo vacume leak with bad timing.
Check the valve cover gasket for any air leaks.

Oh did u fiddle withh the the idle screw that seemingly goes into the block under the carbs?

Best of luck mate, ull fugure it out im sure

 

here's my situation...

im having a bit of a hard time to start the bike. it needs a spray of fuel in the carbs for "faster" start-up, unless it'll drain the battery... when it starts. idling levels goes up then down then up until it shuts off...

tried to sync the carb's vacuum and had a hard time, until i read about the "YICS"

does the YICS / vacuum has any relation to a hard starting xj400z-s
OR does my carb still needs to be cleaned out again. (already cleaned it for about 5 times i guess)

inputs, comments and suggestions are all appreciated.

 

okay well ur problem seems to be a dandy one huh. Did you replace any jets when you cleaned the carbs? IF not try replacing the main jets and the idle jets. And as to the YICS i still don't fully understabnd it, but from what lil i know about it, its a design flaw. Make sure you do not have any air leaks on the carb boots,valve cover gasket, or base gasket. Cuz it still sounds like you have a a vacuum leak. Oh and did you check your fuel lines mabe they are clogged. Cuz by u having to spray ether in the carbs is telling me that you are not getting enough fuel on start up and then u get only miniscule amounts of fuel while idling. Just keep tinkerig on it youll get it eventually.

 

When the time comes to sync the carbs, the YICS port needs to be blocked off. The YICS port moves fuel between the cylinders and when you are trying to sync the carbs will throw off your readings. Chacal makes a YICS tool for doing this. Or you may be able to make one. Basically you need something to put into the YICS port on the side of the Cylinder jugs to block off that system.

As far as the starting problem, when the bike is at idle all the fuel goes through one very small opening right in front of the butterfly's on the top of the carb. On the opposite side of that hole is the Idle Mixture screw. When you put that in did you tighten that screw all the way down? The screw is right next to the enrichment circuit plunger attached to the bar that the "Choke" cable manipulates. The starting point for that Idle Mixture screw is 2 1/2 turns out from tight. If you tightned it all the way down there is no fuel going to the engine at idle. Something to check. Hope that helps.

 

One other thing that I forgot to mention, you said that you have cleaned the carbs several times. But something that gets overlooked is the starter jet in the float bowl itself. When you take the bowl off you will see a small brass tube that goes into a hole on the side of the bowl. Way down in there is a tiny jet for the enrichment or "choke" circuit. It is very easy for that jet to get blocked and if it is, you have no "choke" which will make it very difficult to start the motor. Something else to look into.

 

oo i forgot about that. listen to this guy he knows his carbs. I forgot u had 400 sounds like your carbs ar way different from 750 carbs

 

Umm... guys...

This thread is originally from 2008. I doubt the OP (Original Poster) is still fighting his issue.

SirMikel, we've been responding to your new posts. Please post your current questions in one of those threads too, this 4+ year old thread is in regard to a Hitachi-equipped 650.

 

If you are still having trouble starting that bike ... (Not uncommon inn late Fall and Winter) ... start your own thread.

We'll put this one to sleep.