Starting after carb rebuild and valve adjustment...?

That just about made me shoot pop (soda, sodapop, coke) out my nose :lol:

 

HAHA thanks thats a great start... So i started tracing some wires... and while the bike was off I rocked the turn signal switch from side to side. well after rocking it back and forth the bike is dead, I mean no lights no accesories nothing...DEAD!!! So I started to disect it. I have a ground, a brown wire, a light brown/ white, a dark green, and a yellow and red. All of which were hooked up and looks as if they were all spliced into the headlight rocker.

 

Since I don't have time to read back through all of this and your other thread, what's the fuse box look like? Original glass type fuses?

I meant no harm with my previous comment but I've seen other people do weird things with wiring. So a relay that used to belong under the seat may well now be in the headlight bucket or some such craziness.

 

ON ORIGINAL:::

Black was the ground for signals
Dark Brown and Dark green were the power to the signals.
Looks like Red/Yellow (in the bucket) goes to the cancelling unit
Brown/White to the relay

 

I took no offense from the previous post IWIN, in fact I could use the humor or else I would be punching and breaking everything in sight. The last post was a false alarm I just popped a fuse on my solenoid( not used to having a fuse on the solenoid so I forgot to look and that was it). I have a blade type fuse box. I really thought I was onto something there but NOPE still in the same boat, just rocking back and forth.

 

Just out of curiosity, is this connector still in your headlight bucket?

This is where the clutch switch plugs into. PO jumpered this one (on my list of fixes) and the bike will start in gear...NOT RECOMMENDED

But, if there is not anything plugged into this connector then the bike thinks the clutch is always out.

That shouldn't cause your stalling issue, but a possibility.

Still brainstorming what other relay could be in place.

 

Does anyone know:

If the sidestand relay was removed, and the wires just cut, if the bike would always think the sidestand was down? If it were open-circuit when sidestand is down, and you cut the wires, the bike would still think the circuit is open.

That's the only thing I can think it is, it acts exactly like mine when it's running, in gear, and I put the sidestand down.

I'm wondering if they actually MADE a minimal wiring harness, or if they just hacked away the bits and pieces.

 

Sure. With a "functioning" (and I'm using the term very loosely here) safety system, the sidestand switch has to be jumpered to properly "bypass" it. Although in my world, that's not a good idea; the danged thing is so small I can't see it below my size 13's. That stupid switch has saved my bacon on occasion. If the wires have simply been clipped, the sidestand is down as far as the bike is concerned. Now that the neutral switch is apparently working (although you probably don't have a light any longer) the bike has started to care about the sidestand it thinks is down. Betcha.

And one quick point of fact, and I'm not making this up: the turn signal wires aren't dark brown; they're Chocolate. Honest, look it up; that's what the factory called them because there are other "brown" wires in the system.

Will you PLEASE get a book or track down a wiring diagram; guessing doesn't work with mechanicals and it certainly doesn't work with electricals. You have to figure it out and diagnose it methodically or it's going to continue to kick your butt. Invest in a cheap VOM (volt-ohm meter) and use the wiring diagram to figure out exactly what's left after these hacks got done. It's probably going to be as simple as connecting two wires together; but they'll have to be the right two or not only will it not work, something might smoke. QUIT GUESSING.

By the way, this is exactly what a whole bunch of us tried to explain to you up front, about going through the whole thing FIRST otherwise you'd have a protracted fight with it. Welcome to the jungle (we got fun and games...)

Don't give up just yet, you're getting close. We haven't BEGUN to try to tune for those pods yet...

 

Well after putting the bike on the centyer stand and watching the rear tire, it does in fact jump when putting it into gear before dying, also when trying to start in gear with the clutch pulled the tire spins. SO I toe my clutch apart to see if anything jumped out at me. Nothing did, and now I cant get my clutch back together... Man this thing just doesnt like me!

 

Hey K.....this post has no suggestions for fixes. HOWEVER, others have said it-- I'll say it to: DON'T get frustrated and give up. DON'T get rid of the bike. You WILL eventually fix it.

If you want to talk to someone who had trouble, look up Moellear. "We" took his carb rack apart somewhere around, oh, 10 times or so before finally get it solved. That was apparently something as simple as things not quite lined up right in rack re-assembly but it was beating us for the whole summer. We ended up winning the battle though.

I had a bike that would go 3/4 of a mile and blow the fuses, after running around the house many times. Run around the house for an hour. Go half a mile away......quit. turned out to be a bad regulator and tci.

When you get frustrated, stop and get a cold drink and relax. Electrical stuff can be taxing, but you'll be fine. Just hang in there.

Dave Fox

 

Well thank you for the motivation... I am leaving to Afghanistan in the first week of march so hopefully I get it going before then so I dont have a problem to come home to, and be able to just hop on it and ride!!!

 

It can & will be done Kuman. You need to r i d e before you ship out. The clutch is a new beast if you never did one before. Check out BF's write up.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... build.html

You have a digicam so if your stuck on any part, take pictures, post and ask questions. After your experiment (showing it wasn't releasing) you clearly had problems with it. Now that it's apart get it fixed and right, then if need be we'll get back to the electrical problems-if they are the problem.