running like shi......

So I cleaned the carbs and attempted to get her running. New plugs decent spark. So I cranked it over for about 10 seconds, nothing. I wait a minute crank it over full enrichment circuit, It fires up. Then it starts screaming so I shut the enrichment circuit off it idles down a little I try to dial it down under the carb and it starts to die. So I move the knob back. It drops off like it ran out of gas. It wont start again. I check the pipes and number 3 is warm the rest are hot. The bike ran less than a minute. Im open to suggestions? Its like the cylinders are loading up and burning it all at once, then its dead. I dont get it. Ive been through the carbs at least ten times.

 

did you sync the carbs?

 

yeah carb sync is good.

 

maybe exhaust valves?

 

when you went through the carbs did you take them to the church of clean?
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2908.html

Hows your gas tank is that cleaned out?

 

A runaway sounds like a stuck slide, did they pass the cluck test?

 

Yeah they fall like a brick

 

Also forgot to mention took less than 15 seconds for the pipes started cooking. All except #3 which backfired

 

Did you wet-set the floats? These two things could also be a sign of carbs flooding.

 

I cant wet set at all I dont even have one float bowl that the screw comes out

 

This really needs to be done. They can change any time you take the carbs apart for cleaning. There is only a 3mm variance from the bottom of good, to the top of good. Anything outside this measurement and you will keep having issues.

You might want to check these out -----> 4 carb bowl set

 

If you did not take the float bowls off you have dirt and crud inside there. You can't clean carbs properly without removing the bowls. Since the bowls werent removed we can be sure you did not clean the jets, emulsion tubes or internal carb passages or set float levels. Take them out again and remove the bowls and start over. Just cleaning the top of the carbs won't do anything for the running of your bike.
There are many methods to remove screws with stripped heads, do a search and see what you come up with.
Don't take short cuts when cleaning carbs, it will just make more work for you.

 

I cleaned the bottoms its just the drain screws that are stripped

 

How did you sync them if you can't get it to run? I'm assuming you bench synced them?

They're right on wet setting the floats, you should also bench sync and set the mixture screws 2.5 turns out from bottom. Get everything at a good starting point for the tuning you're now due for.

Like tskaz said, you could have slightly bumped the float height up or down during removal, installation, etc.

I would suggest spraying penetrating lube on the drain screws and maybe a little to sit in the bottom of the bowl. A couple hours or overnight. PB blaster or kroil are good. Bigfitz swears by kroil. For me a lot of downforce and hella torque with a flathead broke mine loose.

Another thing to bring up, when you cleaned the carbs you didn't leave the throttles shaft seal areas soaking with a degreaser did you? It can deteriorate the seals causing an intake leak, which is one of MANY causes of a runaway idle.

 

checked valve clearance numbers follow:
#1 Intake .004 Exhaust .005
#2 Intake .006 Exhaust .003
#3 Intake .004 Exhaust .005
#4 Intake .004 Exhaust .008

 

It's been a while since I've had to do valve clearances, but if I remember correctly, holy shit is your entire top end out of spec.

 

While 3 of 4 intake valves are tight, you should have real concern for the clearance of the EXHAUST valves. Exhaust valves will burn if they don't close.

 

I wont be running it until I can correct the issue.

 

They are about as much use as bowls he's got. If you read the description, it says that all the drain screws are stuck on these

 

You can get those screws out, it's just going to be a PIA. Drill them out if you can't get them to budge after trying everything else. Kroil/heat/cold etc. Wet setting has been done before using a clear container to visually inspect the level. I keep going back to why they didn't just put in a sight glass.

Your carb synch won't work with those valves. They will cause havoc with your vacuum and then it's a no go. Do the valves and find a way to wet set and you should be good.

 

I will try to get them out again. It wouldnt even mind if I only got one out and had to keep switching them. But for now im stuck till after i deal with the valves.

 

This may actually be your solution; if you can only get one functional drain screw, then you'll have to "walk" the good bowl down the rack.

Tip for removing stuck drain screws:

Screw the float bowl to a BOARD using a couple of wood screws. That way you can get a firm HOLD on it. Then gently apply heat from a propane torch, the drain screws will come out.

Valves first though, you've got a couple in the "critical" range.