'82 Maxim XJ650 Parking Lot Project

I suppose I should start with the fact that I have no motorcycle modifying experience. All I knew was what I could learn on Google.

I purchased an 82 Maxim XJ 650 about mid July for $1500. It ran great just had a bum battery replaced that quick. Rode it 250 miles home the same day. This is a pic at the last gas stop I made.



Started by taking small things off then realized i liked the minimalistic/bobber look so everything started coming off. Even the wiring went. I hadn't planned on replacing the electronics but the previous owner left a mess inside of it. Eventually it was a non running skeleton of a bike, and I realized I was way in over my head...



I ditched the seat, cut the frame, and had to jerry together a wiring harness from almost scratch. I put all of the extra electronics and the battery in a PVC tube under the seat to kind of resemble an old school oil tank.

 

Re: Parking Lot Project

I bought a new cordless sawzall and had a bit of fun with the pipes. I just was having too many problems with the old ones. Then I tried my hand at making a fender and seat pan, but the metal was way too thin... cant remember what gauge I used. I added a tail light and headlight as well. Put the switch under the gas tank. Also put my plate on it so i could ride it a bit (cops in my area are real dicks)

 

Re: Parking Lot Project

Fresh Coat of paint in the morning was in order (2 cans of DIY powdercoat from Lowes). and an extra headlight after finding out that 1 wasnt bright enough. the little ones were great but there wasnt any hi/lo function.



I also moved the ignition and key down to the electrical box.



Painted the engine covers black and sanded the faces to create a front to back grain look in the aluminum.




then made a new plate mount from the corner of a 5.56 ammo can that was laying around.

 

Re: Parking Lot Project

I bought a Mac 4 into 1 set of pipes off Amazon to replace the rusted ones that were on there. Of course I was not going to have anything to do with that can on the end so out came the sawzall again.




I later got some time at a local high school machine shop and rolled out a fender out of 18 gauge steel. bolted it on with some 3/8" hardware.

 

Re: Parking Lot Project

New gas cap and new paint



And I made a seat pan out of fiberglass... sorry no pics of that. it was too messy to pull the phone out. I also got around to putting on a Hi/Lo functioning headlamp on, you can kind of see it here. and I replaced the old bulky twist throttle with a smaller one off of a MX bike.



The to do list
-Digital Gauge
-turn signals (I plan on riding at night and hand signals just don't work to well in the dark)
-new tail light (old one does not fit under the new fender)
-clip on handle bars
-hydro clutch
-braided steel cables for clutch and break

suggestions are always welcome!

_

 

How is it running with the pods and new exhaust? Like the new gas cap (where'd you get it?)...

skillet
btw what is wrong with that lady's head in 1 of the pics 8O :lol: ???

 

It runs just the same as before, with the exception that it idles a little lower. I just adjusted the idle screw and it was fine. Still has just as snappy of a response on the throttle.

I found the gas cap on eBay for $25. It was under "ducati gas cap". That actually required a lot of work on the tank to get the flange of the cap to sit flush. It was one of those things where I cut the hole for it thinking it would be easy...it wasn't. but at that point I had to make it work because I cut the old bung and cap attachment point completely out. I'm really happy with it though.

as far as the chick's head goes... ex GF got pissed when she saw her face online last night so I had to edit the picture. lol didn't care about her ars, just her face

 

That does sound a bit like one of those "uh-oohh" moments :wink: ! Does look though...

skillet
btw glad it's running GOOD! Seems like no 2 bikes take to those changes the same (go figure :roll: )...

 

It could also be running so lean it holes a piston after 20 minutes on the freeway.

You need to check your valve clearances before you sink too much work into it and then blow the motor up. You won't be able to do any effective carb adjusting either until you do.

And that rear tire is WAY TOO THIN to be safe anymore.

All the cosmetic work is great; but if you want to actually ride the bike you need to worry about things like 30+ year old BRAKES.

You need to re-prioritize a bit, before you get hurt.

 

The break pads are all replaced (front pads and rear shoes) and the rear tire was flattened because I was showboating for some friends at a stoplight. Not the brightest Idea I know, but I've been planning on putting a tire with a more aggressive tread on it so I wasn't too concerned with the life of the tire. Im not currently riding it as it is 30 degrees out so the tire can wait.

As far as anything to do with the carbs I am clueless. Are there any good tutorials for what you are talking about that you can show me? checking valve clearances and carb adjusting? I am interested id doing it myself

 

FYI I've got 12 years in at Michelin so I'm aware what is safe and not in regards to tires. So no worries about me blowing one out while I'm riding.

 

Valve clearance check: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

Carb cleaning, float levels, bench sync: Do a forum search on those terms, but start here:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14692.html and

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2908.html

And that rear tire didn't get that treadless from a few smoky burnouts; the tire is old and worn out and should be replaced but you know that already.

 

I went out today and did the valve clearance check. SOOOOOOOO easy with your guide Fitz and Chacal's specs. The local tool shop had everything I needed to make it happen. I was actually surprised by this but all of the valves were well within specs. The previous owner couldn't do wiring worth a damn, but he kept a well tuned engine.

Now...the carbs. I have never done more than 1 at a time. I am predicting...pain in the ass. At least I will be able to move on to the cosmetics with a clean conscience. I will mention though that all the parts for what was on my cosmetic "to do list" are in the mail and should be on in a week or so. Provided the weather is cooperative. I am still doing all of my work in an apartment parking lot, save what I can bring inside.

 

If you've done 1, you can do 4. Just pay close attention, be methodical. Take pics (taking them apart) if you have to. GOOD LUCK with it!!!

skillet

 

nice work so far man!!!

 

Carbs are all clean... spotless on the inside. The chrome is a little pitted on the outside but the insides are pristine. I emailed the PO at this point. His response made me laugh a bit"

"i didn't care about how it looked. Rust is just like an accent piece to me. I only used it to get to my deer blind in my woods any way. And hell yeah I kept her a runnin good. Replaced the head, shims, chains, and plugs just before I sold it to you. and those carbs should outlast the bike with the way i kept them lookin"

 

Leave it to us Michiganders.......LOL

Looks like you and I are one of the rare ones that had POs that took care of the motor. They probably both used the book Wiring for Dummies though.

 

I cant say much. The deer blind thing... yeah I went and did that too. And Tskaz I think you hit the nail on the head... Michiganders we are a peculiar bunch. As far as wiring goes... I think my PO bought the wiring for dummies book and then just stared at it while he cut and duck taped everything together.

I have yet to Colortune it due to my lack of a colortune plug. Working on that (PO said he did it after he did the shims). But It runs fine when I get her started (starting a cold engine in 15degree weather sucks). Low power, high power, idle, everything is good, and I'm not getting any crazy readings off of my headers when I hit them with the thermometer.

Well the Cosmetic aspect has returned now that I have satisfied my curiosity for the maintenance. New shocks came in the mail today. Obviously they have the wrong bottom attachment piece. Not sure how i missed that when I was buying them. Attached them with only a bit of modification. I had to take off the makeshift plate holder to make room for the reservoirs though. New one of those to come soon.



The left side was simple enough



Though Im still not sure about the right side.



Im thinking Im gonna have to go back and try something else. It is solid but it just doesn't look quite right to me. I cant weld, and have no friends who can, so this kind of work is what makes this project a PITA.

 

UPDATE: Finished the Colortune... with a small bit of work it is running perfectly... I was only running lean in the 4 cylinder, and not by much. Rich in 1, 2, & 3. Must have been running hella rich when it had the stock air box and pipes on. Its a miracle that the entire engine isn't seized up with carbon!!!

OR!!!

The engine transfers much better than thought to pods. Without having done a colortune before removing the box & pipes well never know. But the engine was clean when i tore it open 2 nights ago so ima guess that it wasn't running that rich. (Props again to my PO)

 

Notice how no one wants to comment on how the engine took to the pods so well...

Well any how...

I decided to put some real paint on the tank instead of just a primer coat. I went and matched the fender as well. I took the entire tank down to the metal and left most of it bare save for a generous clear-coat.





I went and cut out most of the old bondo before I clear-coated the tank. Notice the gap that will now cause problems sealing the bolt in bung. I solved that by filling the space with a ethanol/gas resistant epoxy. had to go to a specialty shop to find it. the stuff is used to seal holes in trucker tanks. I also ordered NOS Yamaha tank badges from a guy in india that found a bunch in original Yamaha parts bags. (SCORE!!!) though the shipping is gonna take another week to get here.














I also re-padded the seat pan with something a little more comfortable (notice the change in thickness). This is how it will sit on the rear fender. Passenger is gonna have to hold on tight.



AAAAND... while the tank was off the bike I decided to put on some K&N filters.




Still to come:
Bolt on handlebars
hydraulic clutch
nissen MS + a new front break caliper since the old one went ahead and seized up. I blew a break line before I realized thats what was wrong. Of course that also meant that my lines were worn and it was all bad news at that point

 

Looks good. How do you like the K&N's vs the pods?
Also how do you like those shocks. Ive got a set but havent put them on yet. I also got the 11" so itll drop the rear abit.

 

That gas tank looks great! :!: Was thinking of painting mine flat black with the same type of stripes but with a bright green paint.

 

Haven't had the chance to start the engine but I know Im gonna need to colortune again. I did stick my mouth to the pods and K&N's and did the "suck in as hard as you can and notice the resistance" test lol. I've never heard of anyone doing that before. However, I did notice a difference; K&N breathed so much better. They are truly a get what you pay for product ($65 for the set). Also those cheapie pods were actually starting to rust in the mesh covering so they had to go.

As far as the shocks, I have no idea. the bike hasn't even come off of the center stand since I put them on. I'm working on so many things right now. I will have to re work how I have them attached (new pics when I do), because I just don't trust the current mounting situation. ie- I've got the head of the bolts pushed right up against the side of the shocks' mounts, and with the rotation of that point I am certain it will twist the bolt out... I will have to get spacers for the shock to ride on so the bolt can remain tight.

This is my third and hopefully final attempt at paint. The first two times I tried to use a flat black paint on the entire thing. this was no good though because if even a single drop of gas hit that flat black it spidered up and just started a' peelin. I tried flat black with a clear-coat to protect it from the gas but then it wasn't "flat" black anymore. It just looked like a normal high gloss paint. I chose this route because I wanted it to look industrial (hence the attempt at "Flat" paints) and i figured what was more industrial than a striped pitted steel tank. It is exactly what I wanted and I'm happy with how it turned out. I will have a few more pics of the tank up when I get the Yamaha badges.

The moral to my story is Clear-coat that $h!t no matter what. The ethanol in new age gas just likes to eat through regular paint. (Even hardened JB weld didn't stand up to a gas bath)

 

Just a comment on the tail light...
The LED truck light is a good idea (I have the same one!) but the way you have it mounted will only cause problems, like-
The rear wheel will cover it with road debris in a short time and will come less effective.
Having it tucked into the fender like that will make it harder to be seen at an angle from the back, making it hard to be noticed my vehicles from behind. I suggest moving it back so it can bee seen better. Just my idea.

 

lol!!! you forgot the worst problem of all. If I hit a really big bump the rear tire comes up and clips the bottom of the light, rips it off, and crushes it as I drive it over... lota work down the drain on that one.

Im in the process of getting a prefab plate bracket and light combo off of eBay. $12!!! but its economy shipping from somewhere in Asia so who knows when it will ever get here. :/ I plan on mounting it off to the left side like most bobbers on here.



Also (well into the future and probably the last thing i do) I want to put red LED lighting under the tank and parts of the frame so the bike glows red when I either hit a toggle switch or hit the brakes. I checked and the red is legal in all 50 states as long as no bulbs are facing forward.

 

Better double check the Secretary of State website; I don't think having your tail/stop light on one side is actually legal here. I'm pretty sure it's gotta be in the middle.

 

257.686 Rear lamps; exemption; requirements for implement of husbandry; pickup camper.
Sec. 686.

(1) A motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, pole trailer, or vehicle which is being drawn in a train of vehicles shall be equipped with at least 1 rear lamp mounted on the rear, which, when lighted as required by this act, shall emit a red light plainly visible from a distance of 500 feet to the rear.

(2) Either a tail lamp or a separate lamp shall be constructed and placed so as to illuminate with a white light the rear registration plate and render it clearly legible from a distance of 50 feet to the rear. A tail lamp or tail lamps, together with any separate lamp for illuminating the rear registration plate, shall be wired so as to be lighted whenever the head lamps or auxiliary driving lamps are lighted.

A bike is no exception. Just so long as its visible to the rear...directly from the rear, there is no code violation. Most of the country words it this way. They do not specify the location of the rear light just the function of it.

If I am wrong and someone can find where it says so, please tell me! I am just going by the light laws that I can get from google. Theres no saying how current they are.

 

The badges came in. i just used adhesive to put them on and glued in some screw heads.

 

UPDATE- With the weather here being absolutely amazing for the middle of winter (55 degrees in February) I decided to just strip the bike down and get it blasted and painted up right. The engine comes out tomorrow when I get some help from a few friends.









There is a method to my madness XD

 

Started cleaning up the parts that were to get painted. Still haven't gotten around to getting the engine out of the frame. But I finished up all of the work I wanted to do to the front end aside from the electrical which I will re-wire after everything is back together.



Chopped up the top of the triple tree. less is more...



PAINT!!! Ford red and Semi gloss black engine enamels. tough paint for a shaker. I just don't have the cash to get it powder coated...











Final Product

 

Wow! That is looking nice... keep posting pictures to inspire us! Good job bro.

 

Nice dude! I'm a Michigander too! Well, originally.. lol

Love the build man, I just picked up an '82 650 and am probably gonna steal an idea or two from your thread lol.

 

where did you get those rear amber lights that fit inside the frame?

 

still looking good, get some new rubber on ther so the overspray looks less ghetto, haha

 

Just repaint the tires black

 

great paint job btw. My dad had a screaming eagle Harley which had bare metal in the paint scheme, I thought about doing something similar. It looks much better with the stripes and tank badges.

 

Imitation is the best form of flattery

They were for sale at Meijer for $10. I had to rip off the rubber gromet and replace it with a smaller o-ring so it would fit but still be snug.

great idea.


Ive been a little lazy as of late and the project is on standstill until i can get some more of the parts cleaned off. Aaaaaaaand... the engine is still on the frame so that's a big one left for me to do.

 

More parts in the bathroom. I decided to add a bit of red to the back end by doing the swingarm in red.



And repainted the headlight and bar I made to mount it on.



lol. This is the most finished part of my motorcycle

 

So... Im putting the rear end back together and I don't know how much oil to put back in the diff it doesn't have a volume on the label that is on the swing arm, just "20w".

anyone got this info?

 

I believe it is the same as most other rear ends. When it is on the bike on the center stand, fill until oil starts coming out of the fill hole.

 

Sounds good to me.

Just put her together about an hour ago. I used a liquid silicone gasket maker and just bolted her up. We'll see how it holds up. Of course I'll have to wait on the gear oil until its all together.

 

Just started rewiring the bike again. I added so many little things that my first harness turned into just as much of a rats nest as the one I pulled out originally. I've got nothing else to add though so this should be it. Im going with a pretty simple diagram I found on this site with a few mods to it. Pictures of the wiring job to come later.

I forked up and got a Dakota Digital gauge. I cant wait to get it working...along with the rest of my bike.

 

I would have installed the new rear tire before painting the wheel.

 

Psssssst... 10 coats of clear on the wheels... and 12 years of experience at Michelin.



Im fine with wheels n tires n brakes. Im learning engines and metal fab

 

I apologize for the attitude of the last post but I have been hearing about that tire this entire time and that was the only thing on this bike I didn't need help with. For 20 years straight, working 9 to 5 and even longer once I was managing a few Michelin stores, all I did was work with tires and wheels. I can handle the tires. Very few can handle them better than I can. What I would like is suggestions on ANYTHING else. I love opinions on my work or lack of work. And I highly respect the experience all of the members and moderators bring to these posts in regards to these bikes.

 

OK... so I am on a roll today. I just pulled the engine out and got about halfway through brushing the frame. I went through four 18v batteries with my angle grinder, that has a brass wire brush attachment, and am now waiting for them to charge. Only thing is that in 3 hours I am going to be on a plane bound for the bahamas; so this will be my last post for a little while.

as always... pics



Found this little guy on the bottom of the frame... Is this a deal-breaker? its a straight through hole. the metal is still thick around it. the micrometer says its the same thickness as the rest of the tubing. just a single spot got rusted through. would taking the frame to get an acid bath be a good idea in this case? I wanted to avoid that just because of the money and also i am fine with brushing the frame by hand... $H!T... I know what the right thing to do here is but I want someone else to say it first just in case Im wrong and there is a better fix

 

Not good. Id probably do a plate patch. Im not sure id even acid dip it.

 

The Bahamas?! Now I'm jealous. Oh, and the paint job is nice too. Just kidding! I really like the red on the rims! What paint do you use?

 

I used Dupicolor Engine Enamel with about 6 coats of Rustoleum Auto clearcoat. together the combo is just about bullet proof. I'm juggling with the idea of taking the frame to get powder-coated though. I really beat it to hell getting it off of the engine... I'm prolly gonna have to beat up again putting it all together.

 

It looks like your build is nice enough to warrant powder coating the frame. Itll last so much longer too. As long as your careful i see no reason why your have to beat it going back in. Good time to get rid of any brackets and fittings your not gonna use too.

Last i checked my local powder price was around $350 blasted, dipped and sprayed with any color.