Stainless Bolt Kit?

What do you guys think?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370501690993?ss ... 1423.l2649

 

hi, i like them myself,shouldnt rust, head wont strip like the original screws, but having said that use some copper based anti sieze to prevent a reaction between 2 different types of metal,ken

 

a long time ago i did carb screws on here, ordered all the sizes from McMaster Carr and made sets, didn't make any money but got mine for free.
i think people here would rather buy from a member rather than ebay, go for it

 

I bought Stainless Kits off Ebay for both my bikes.

The price is a wicked good deal.
(Compared to buying them all ala-carte' at a Hdwe store)
They look great.
They replace soft, cheap, dullness.

:::: Treat them with AntiSeize Compound ::::

 

I replaced a lot of bolts with SS and while they aren't that expensive I ran into the supply problem where I'd lose 1 spring washer or something and I was searching for a SS one to replace it.

I decided to stick to ZP hardened metric bolts with the same thread pitch as original... so much easier to get and you can buy a bucket load for the same price... and they are still shiney, at least to start with and wouldn't have the electrolysis issue on aluminium... and I could be wrong but from my understanding of metallurgy(which is what my high school metalwork teacher told me a looooooong time ago) SS wouldn't have the same amount of hardening potential as high carbon steel.

Obviously I walk into the bolt shop and say "are these hardened?" and the guy says "but of course!" and I believe him... so thats all i have to go on.

Just my 2 cents of course and using ZP ... that 2 cents actually buys something

 

The issue of Incompatibility of Metals, ... with regard to the Galvanic Process that causes: Steel and Stainless Steel (and others) to react causing the Fastener to Seize, ... or as some say "Cold Weld", ...

Is precisely the reason why Anti-seize Compounds were developed.

Imagine how many XJ-Bikes would be still up-and-running, ... if a Robot wiped some Anti-seize Compound on Exhaust Studs, Manifold Bolts and Exhaust Fasteners.

 

I bought one of those kits for my XS11. It had all the bolts for the side covers but nothing else. Its a good starting point but you will want to start replacing other bolts as well. You would be better off buying bulk from McMaster Carr. Cost a little more but you get twice as much.
Always use anti-sieze on SS bolts, just like Rick says.

 

Early, in the restoration of my 900, ... I had to pull the Head and have several broken-off Manifold Screws drilled-out and one Manifold Duct -- "Drilled-out, fill-welded, re-drilled and re-tapped" after a PO's botched job going-after a remnant.

After paying the Pro's to save that Head, ... I went to Teflon-wrapped Stainless WITH Anti-seize wiped Threads on the Hole and Screw.

Over-kill.

W-T-F ???

 

I bought these....they look good. Only complaint was that the allen key is not a snug fit like the original. OK as long as you're not undoing them regularly

 

It's possible, ... those fasteners are the correct Thread Pitch ... BUT, the ALLEN Hex isn't METRIC, ... But, a SAE Standard (Fractional) Fasteners.

 

Good looking out, I will be sure to use my sae allen wrenches.

Do you think I could get away replacing one bolt at a time so i wouldn't have to take the covers off and lose all the fluids as well as have to replace all the gaskets? or should i just hold off on replacing the bolts as i go through and take of the covers as necessary?

 

As long as the cover is not removed. You should not have to worry about the gaskets. Replacing one bolt at a time should not be an issue. Just make sure that you only snug them down to start until all bolts are replaced. Then go back through to torque them to proper specs. This will reduce the chance of cracking a cover by overtorquing one of the new bolts.

Ghost

 

are the torque specs in the manual? The manual (cd) that i have is at a friends print shop being printed to a hardcopy.

thanks!

 

General torque specs taken from XJ750K service manual
Bolts/Nuts
M6/10mm - 4.3 ft lb
M8/12mm - 11 ft lb
M10/14mm - 22 ft lb
M12/17mm - 40 ft lb
M14/19mm - 51 ft lb
M16/21mm - 94 ft lb

Always make sure you use antisieze when using steel/ stainless steel fasteners in aluminum.

Ghost

 

i see the 4.3 ft/lbs spec but that's about finger tight, if you look at the reassembly for the left cover it says 7.2 ft/lbs. that's what i use on all 6mm bolts unless it calls for more

 

I BLED THE MOTHER-LOVING BRAKES!

WOOOOOO!

Please note, these are _general_ torque specs. They don't apply in some special cases. Union bolts, for instance, get torqued to ~18 ft-lbs.

If you torque them to 40 ft-lbs, you will shear them off in your brake caliper. And you will be sad. Ask me how I know.