stuck mixture screw in carb

I have a stuck mixture screw that now has no head and has a hole drilled in it. I can put a small screwdriver into it but it will not turn even with heating the housing with a torch. I have been using liquid wrench with no luck.

What should I do now?

 

An easy-out and Kroil should do it. I've been using a "screw extractor" and it works very well. If you're not familiar with these, let us know.

 

I just dropped them off at a machine shop. They looked at it and were uneasy about working on it after seeing the fine threads. They said that they might be able to get it out.
I am hope they can get it.

I will let you know.

 

Carefull work with a left hadnded drill bit works for me. If you hit the threads I think Chacal has taps to clean them up.

 

I'm curious as to how your machine shop worked out? I hope they got it for you but it seems like they never take the same care as an owner will. Please post up with how it worked out.

jeff

 

Just picked them up and no luck. They managed to drill it out with a reverse drill bit off center and now I have very little to work with.

I took it to a motocycle repair shop that deals with old bikes all the time and he told that he would just replace the carb. I cant find one on ebay for that placement. The left inner carb. I did see complete set for a 1987 FJ 1200
they look like they would work.

Does anyone know what the difference is between them?

The price is right 99 bucks for the set.

 

The 80 to 81 from a XS1100 will work if you are looking to replace just the one carb body. If you want to replace the whole rack than either the early or late model carbs from a XS1100 will work but you will have to swap over the enricher linkage. Most XS guys say the early model carbs are easer to adjust and set up as you can change the needle setting but you trade the clear tube method for setting the float level for the measurement method with the early model carbs

 

Thank you for the information. I will look around for a replacement body.
I need the left inner body with the vacuum tube installed.
If you see one let me know.

Thanks

 

Can i ask you a couple of questions about your XJ please jamings?
I've got a couple of XS1100's, and one of them i've been trying to convert to an XJ1100 ignition system.
I've got the 10M TCI, the vacuum sensor or boost unit, and the pick ups.
It runs without the boost unit but struggles to get from 70 to 100mph and doesn't want to go past the ton.
So i tried to install the boost unit but i'm unsure as to where it connects to.
Does the vacuum hose go to the carb boot spigot or the carb body spigot on inner left carb, and also where do the wires connect to, straight to the +ve and -ve on the battery or somewhere else?
Bear in mind that i've still got the XS wiring loom and not the XJ loom.

 

Hummm picking my brain now?
Well I am not with the bike now but I THINK the wires connect to the TCI via the harness. The vac line goes to the CARB. I have a harness that should have the conections if you are intrested I will sell it to you cheap.
You should be able to steel the wires and connections from it and add them to your harnness.

 

::::In desperation ::::
::::In desperation ::::
::::When all else fails:::
You can "Tear" a Pilot Mixture Screw out from the Threaded Orifice.

Use a DREMEL Tool with a Flex-wand Extension.
With a Diamond Cutting Bit ...
Remove material from the Center of the Pilot Screw ... being careful not to remove too much Brass and ruin the Threads within the Orifice.

Dump the Lower-shaft out when it dislodged from the material removed above it.
The Sleeve of Brass needs to be extracted.

The Sleeve is 7.5mm (Tall - Top to Bottom).
Drill a SMALL Hole in from the Side of the Orifice.
After calculating where it will be located at the Mid-point of the Remnant Sleeve.
Use great care to remove Aluminum ONLY ...
Until, ...(after many observations) ... Brass just begins to show.

Make a Drift from the Drill Bit by cutting the Twist off he shaft.
Lube the shaft.
Drive the shaft into the drilled hole collapsing the Sleeve away from the Inside Diameter of the Pilot Mix Hole.

Grab the Sleeve with Needle Nosed Pliers and twist it out slowly.

After the chunk's out, Orifice cleaned and Threads "Chased with a BOTTOM Tap. :::: BOTTOM TAP -- ONLY ::::

Wrap a New Pilot Screw with Teflon Tape
Block the Drilled hole.
JB Weld it closed.

Mix Screw: OD = 5.9mm
Threaded Section: 7.5mm <-->

 

Thanks Rick,
I have gone past all recourse on this one. The post broke when I used a easy out. I need a new carb now.

If you see one let me know. It's the one with the vacuum nipple.

Thank you

 

PM'd you jamings67. :arrow:

 

These should work

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Yamaha-XS- ... es&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for posting the results so everyone else could see exactly what I had expected unfortunately. Most machine shops are great at boring and some fabrication but often, they don't have the right tool options for small precise work like you needed. They end up handing you back something that is useless....and charging you for their efforts.

Looks like you're in good hands now though with the resident XS braintrust so good luck.

jeff