Restoring xj 550, a couple of questions...

Hi!

I was backed over by a mini van some three years ago. Luckily I managed to jump of before i was crushed, but it didn't go so well for the bike. Anyway, I started to restore it right after the crash, but after a while I didn't have nor time or motivation so it has just been standing there looking sad...

Anyway, now I've started again and I have a couple of questions:

1. I have to get hold of a couple of carb diaphragms. Can I take carb spare parts from any xj 550 with mikuni carbs or are there differences from year to year?

2. Since I removed the carbs almost three years ago, the engine has been standing with nothing but rags in the intake- and exhaust ports. Do you think that the engine might have taken damage (corrosion etc)? Or do you reckon that It's enough with an oil change? I don't want to split the engine if I don't absolutely have to.

3. The tank is pretty rusty on the inside. I've read about "Kreem" products for coating the inside of the tank. Do you guys have any other sugestions or is Kreem a good choice?

4. The speedometer and tachometer got crushed. And actually I was kind of happy for that because they weren't good looking in the first place. I was thinking about getting a couple of mini clocks from mikes xs or partsnmore. I had something like this in mind:
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/03-0746.html
and
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/03-0755.html
Will they work? Is the original tachometer calibrated for 1:5 ratio and the speedometer for 2:1 ratio? Will the original speedo- and tacho-cables fit in these clocks? Are there any obvious problems when doing the electrical wiring?

I think that will do for starters...

Take care!

- Felix

 

First thing id do is make sure the motor can turn over. Either by using a battery or by hand. Depending on how that goes it could effect everything.
I dont care for kreem products. THey are messy and a bandaid at best. Tanks for the 550 are cheap enough for nice ones so id probably go that route ratehr deal with an iffy tank.

 

The carb diaphrams are the same for the 550 Seca and Maxim. I would not try to just turn the motor over after it has been sitting so long. I would shoot some PB Blaster or something similar into each cylinder and let it sit for a few days to loosen up. As you already know, an oil change is a must. As for the tank, There are ways to clean it out and seal it that are discussed on here. I don't know how easy it is to find a cheap tank for the 550 where you are, but here it is not easy to find a cheap one in good condition. I would clean it out and seal it. POR15 has a complete kit to clean and seal the tank.

I have no idea if the gauges from Mike's will work.

 

Stay well clear of Kreem. POR-15 or Caswell Plating's tank sealer are much better choices.

Before you turn the motor over, put a little oil down each plug hole and let it sit, then remove the ignition timing cover and turn the motor by hand. 19mm wrench, and make sure you go counter-clockwise.

 

Felix;

Re: #1-- Assuming a '4U8' (Seca) and a '5K5' (Maxim) the carbs are the same except for the jet (slide) needles and pilot AIR jets; the motors are the same except for the cams (the Secas have higher valve lift) and primary drive ratios.

Re: #2:-- invest in some Kroil: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ apply sparingly, and then turn the motor over by hand as suggested. As per his usual, the 'kaz is spot on. (Be careful not to bash into the ignition pickups in the process.)

Both your original tach and speedo are purely mechanical. Any wiring would be associated with lighting; or the voltmeter and fuel gauge if your bike (the Seca) was so equipped.

 

Thank you for your time and answers! I know that the gauges are mechanical, the question is wich ratio is used on the xj 550. The speedometers from mike's are calibrated for 19" front wheel, 2:1 ratio, and the tachometers are 1:5 ratio. Will the fittings be the same? That is, can i plug my standard xj 550 speedo- and tachowires into these gauges. I've been in contact with mike's, but they couldn't help me with the specifications. What do you guys think?

I was too hot, so i tried to turn the motor round before I got the tip on putting some oil or similar in the cylinders. Anyway, I put the bike in 6:th gear and pushed it a meter or so. The motor did revolve (the back wheel didn't lock up and I could hear the "exhausts"). My plan is to change oil, get the motor running and change oil and filter at least one more time almost immediately. Depending on the condition of the oil that comes out i will consider open the engine at a later stage.

I've read the massive article on carb cleaning and tuning. Two of my diaphragms are a wee bit worn so you can actually see the cords on three places of the diaphragms outside. There are no real holes, but I guess it's just a matter of time. As you know new diaphragms are pretty expensive so I wonder if there is some sort of "chemical rubber" or something that you can restore the diaphragms with. I strongly suspect that the answer is no, but It doesn't hurt to ask!

- Felix

 

This guy has reasonable rubbers: jbmindustries.com/yamaha650.html

Look for the 550's but if it's a hsc32 Hitachi, they're the same as the 650's... his has ( :roll: ) no orientation tab, so align appropriately

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

All good advise - remember to double check the front brake caliper - make sure cleaned and lubricated with anti-seize compound - I considered removing valve cover before starting for the first time but went ahead anyway with no problems - change oil then after riding a while at lower RPM range change the oil and filter again just to make sure all possible crap is purged from crank case

 

Yep... The front calipers are completely frozen, so I'll have to do some work there as well.... I'll try to start her up and do a couple of oil changes and see what the condition of the oil looks like. I hope it won't be too bad

No one out there that knows anything about my question regarding the compability of the speedometer and tachometer gauges?

 

Yep... The front calipers are completely frozen, so I'll have to do some work there as well.... I'll try to start her up and do a couple of oil changes and see what the condition of the oil looks like. I hope it won't be too bad

No one out there that knows anything about my question regarding the compability of the speedometer and tachometer gauges?