Getting closer to finding running issue

SO i went to the local yamaha dealer and had my could tested, they are fine, Ohmed out all of the stators winding and pickups, they are fine,

Here are my symptoms, Regardless of fuel mixture if i pull the plugs off of the wires and then crank for a second or two then place them back on the plugs it will kick for a second, It also wants to kick but just cant quite get there when just cranking, any thoughts?

 

So have you done everything we suggested in our responses to your original thread? http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... rt=30.html

Valves in spec yet? If not, QUIT TRYING TO START THE BIKE.

Just starting a new thread hoping for different answers isn't going to help.

We gave you a whole long to-do list in answers to your original post, how many of those things have you completed yet?

If your valves aren't in spec and you haven't done the other things either, then you're no closer to anything.

 

Im not trying to be a dick, i really apreciate the help, but how would the problem that i am describing have anything to do with the valves, the bike runs for a second after the plug wires are removed, it is cranked and then they are put back, I just dont see how valves will effect this, and like i said i have the tool on the way so i can get all of my valves in spec. I am just looking to see if anyone has had a problem like this before.

 

Valves that are too tight greatly affect COMPRESSION.

Carbs that aren't functioning correctly will not provide the correct fuel mixture to be compressed.

It's NOT GOING TO RUN in its current state. Period.

I don't know how to put it any more bluntly. I'm not yanking your chain; it's just science.

 

Long shot this but... are the HT leads from the coils going to the right cylinders?
And, are the wires from the loom going to the correct wires for the coils?
:roll: :?: :idea:

 

Read his original thread. He's got three horribly tight exhaust valves, one is at zero clearance and the bike needs its carbs serviced.

You can't fire that which isn't there to BE fired (a compressed proper fuel-air mixture.)

 

I don't know what bike you have, but I have a xj750 Maxim that was doing the same thing, turned out to be a safety switch. There is a black and white wire on the left side below the seat. I unhooked that wire at the connector, and it fired right up.

 

Here we go again........

 

There is a TEST you can perform to see if the Bike is going to run or not.

Locate the SAFETY Relay.
Unplug the Relay.
Place the Bike in Neutral.
Confirm that it is NOT in gear.
Remove Airbox Cover and Filter.
Spray STARTING Fluid into the Void where the Boots will draw the Fluid straight to the Engine.
Turn-on Ignition Switch.
Press Start Button.

Engine Starts, runs on Starting Fluid.
Pop, ... shows life ...
> Incorrect Relay
> Safety Circuit related fault.
> Fuel Supply issues.

 

There is a TEST you can perform to see if the Bike is going to run or not.

Locate the SAFETY Relay.
Unplug the Relay.
Place the Bike in Neutral.
Confirm that it is NOT in gear.
Remove Airbox Cover and Filter.
Spray STARTING Fluid into the Void where the Boots will draw the Fluid straight to the Engine.
Turn-on Ignition Switch.
Press Start Button.

Engine Starts, runs on Starting Fluid.
Pop, ... shows life ...
> Incorrect Relay
> Safety Circuit related fault.
> Fuel Supply issues.

 

Can you say voltage drop?

After getting my coils load tested and swaping out with a known good tci i decided to check the voltage to my coils and tci. I found that with the ignition on i have 12.6 v at the battery, but only 10.5 volts ate the coils and at the tci, this was all measured with ground lead on the battery to eliminate the ground side as a problem.

It gets even worse when i crank the bike over, The voltage at the coils and tci drops to 8 or even lower, I am still getting spark but barley any. I am currently trickle charging the battery to make sure it is completly full, bought it a few days ago, then i am going to jump power from the battery to the coils and tci circuit and see if that makes a difference.

 

When you troubleshoot a CRANKING Problem, ... the VOLTAGE of the Battery is of NO consequence.

VOLTS don't spin the Starter.
AMPS do.

Pull the Battery and have it TESTED for Cranking Amps.
You need Amperes. Lots of Amps.
12 Volts ain't much.
A little 9 Volt Battery powers a Smoke Detector.
The Battery needs "Deep" charging capability.

::: Before you get too far ahead of yourself and buy a new battery, ... pull the cover off the Alternator and measure the Brushes :::

::: 10mm Service Limit :::

::: 10mm or Less = Replace Brushes :::

 

That volt drop is excessive, I would do some spot checks across the connectors, ignition switch and kill switch.

Mind you on any old bike it is worthwhile to disassemble and clean out the ignition switch.

 

I got the battery fully charged today and most of the drop went away, i am ordering a few shims to correct my clearence problems and have a compression tester on order, once i eliminate the mechanical engine issues i will find out if it is spark or not, if i remove the plugs and spray a little carb cleaner in the holes and then fire it it will run for a second so i believe that i am not getting good draw from the cylenders to suck the fuel mixture in.