Advice needed - looking at XJ650 this week...

I am going to look at a 1982 XJ650 on Wednesday.

I am wondering if you can think of anything specific I can keep an eye out for on this model? Are there any usual problems to look for?

I don't ride yet. I have my permit and ABATE class in July. My husband does ride and he will be doing the test drive. However, he has a newer HD bike and I'm not sure he'll know specifically what to look out for on an older Yamaha.

Here is the craigslist add for the bike I'm gonna be looking at:
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/2923220673.html


Also, what is the difference between a Seca and a Maxim? He doesn't say which this bike is, and when I search "XJ650" I see links for Seca and Maxim. Sorry if it's a stupid question. I may get a seat for it (it has some tears as is) and the side kickstand is missing. I wanted to know if there's a difference when/if I'm shopping for parts later on.

What do you think about the price? Seems a bit high for the bike. But he had it originally listed at 1600, then 1200 and now 1000.

Also, I don't know if he's on this forum, so sorry Matt if I'm calling you out!!!

 

Hi,

This is a Seca http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/class ... -seca.aspx

This is the Maxim YICS which is what he is selling http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ ... _maxim.htm

You may want to do a compression test
You'll want to understand mileage
If possible, you want to understand maintenance records
Check electrical -- look at the fuz box under the seat -- looks reasonable or like a rat's nest?
Cold start - no cheating -- stone cold and ask for no warm up - put your hand on the head prior to start to be sure
check all electrical
look at oil - level and smell it for gas
the compression test will tell alot
Look at the air filter -- is it splashed with oild/gas from the inside?

shine a light into the air box how does it look in there?

how are the carb and air box boots? severely cracked or reasonable for age? shine light into gas tank -- how much rust do you see?

put the pet-cock on PRI -- see if the carbs flood over or not

Personally, I'd offer less

Keep us posted

 

Thanks a bunch for the speedy reply!! Thanks for the affirmation on my thoughts on the price. I chuckled to myself when I saw it was originally listed at $1600. At $1000 I figured there may be room for negotiation. I was gonna see if I could get it for around $800.

I'll let Ben (hubby) look at your suggestions. Not sure if he has a compression tester, but I think we can borrow one from a friend by Wednesday.

I've also been browsing the forums. I see there are a lot of posts/advice to new owners. They've been very helpful too.

I'm getting itchy to get my first bike and I love the look of these. I wish there were one for sale nearby that was in better condition.

BTW, do you think this would be a good bike for a beginner (specifically a girl)?

 

should be just fine for a beginner provided you are careful. these bikes are by no means speed deamons but they do have a decent amount of power. i would highly recommend taking the motorcycle class before you ride. also please look up the rear brake delamination post by bigfitz. you will not regret it and it may save your live if you decide to get this bike. you may even want to have your husband read it as well so he pays special attention to the condition of the brakes before he gives it a test ride. basically, long story short, thirty year old brake shoes tend to delaminate causing the rear wheel to lock up unexpectedly. so definately not a joking matter. hope this helps, dont hesitate to ask for help cuz there are lots of friendly people on this site that will help you through every step of the way. good luck and please ride safely

 

Patience often rewards when it comes to the market for these --- unfortunately everyone wants one in the spring and the seller knows that -- Really nice ones do come along --- THOUGH they ALL need work for both (typically) safety and performance reasons...

These are however, good bikes, whether first second or last, but you must put time and elbow grease into them... There really are no shortcuts... And bike shops are just too expensive for the kind of attention they need...(IMHO). They are still great bikes when running and balanced well.

Keep us posted

 

heres the post i was referring to (rear brake delamination):
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

hope this helps

 

All the advice has been great so far. I did see some posts about the rear brake delamination earlier.
I think Ben is pretty excited about me getting an older bike. He loves to tinker. Maybe having an older bike to fix up will stop him from spending so much money and time on his sportster. :wink: Or, maybe that's just wishful thinking on my part.
The guy said he's been riding it, so hopefully it's not too worse off for the wear. The bike is older than me and some days I feel like I'm falling apart... so I know it'll need some work. Luckily, we do have a shop here in town that will service older bikes... if we get in over our heads, at least there's professional help down the street.
If I can get it for $800, I'll have a chunk of cash left over for fixing it up. My original bike budget was $2000, but I couldn't resist the urge to check this one out for half my budget. I know all of you will agree they are great looking bikes.
I'll keep you posted if I get it. I would love to be part of the XJ family.. you are all so friendly and helpful.

 

Just my opinion, try to stay away from the bike shops when it comes to these bikes. most shops will try to charge you an arm and a leg simply because of the time involved. these bikes are pretty simple as long as youre willing to put fourth the time into research (it definately doesnt hurt to have a husband that likes to tinker and has some experience in motorcycles). Honestly you can find everything you'll ever need on this site, information and parts as well, we happen to have an amazing supporting vendor (chacal @ XJ4ever) who has everything for these old bikes IN STOCK and at very competitve prices! Also you'll find we have a very active "For Sale/Wanted" section if you ever need any used parts. Good luck and welcome!

 

Check front brake lines for date code. If they are original they must be replaced.
Check date code on tires. Anything over 5 years must be replaced.

If it needs brake lines and tires and such, but has a good compression test (120 or above on all cylinders) then I would go about $600. You may have to go a little more, but the fact that he keeps re-listing it is a clue as to its real value.

I definitely wouldn't pay more than $800.

If you buy it we have a parts guy that can get you everything you need and he is THE go-to guy on XJs. His name's chacal.

Keep in mind that with brakes, tires, and the like, you will put about another $800 into it, but you'll have pretty much a brand new 30 year old motorcycle to show for it.

If your hubby can turn a wrench, he can work on this bike. The work isn't that hard to do on these bikes, and the sense of "Yeah, that's right, I did that" is worth more than the money you'll have into it.

And we are always here to help if he runs in to a problem.


OH, and welcome to the club! (hopefully)

 

Here is a maxim x that was JUST posted on craigslist...

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/2924140767.html

It looks in better shape than the xj650.

Coolant problem? Coolant leak and gets hot in traffic.... does that sound like too much work, or doable?

I hope you guys are patient and/or bored... cause i know I'm posting a lot on here. Thanks again

 

It's missing the grab rail, both tank badges, the stickers that go on the side covers, the reflectors that go on the frame sides between the tank and the forks, the tank has at least one dent..........makes me wonder what else is missing that I can't see.

For THAT kind of money I would expect that everything would be there. Heck, I've sold complete running bikes for less which included fresh oil/filter/carbs thoroughly cleaned, valve clearance checked and adjusted, new brakes, etc...... before they leave my hands.

I'd really try to get him down quite a way if I were you.

However, if you decide that you are in love with THAT one, there are plenty of us here that have the parts you will need to finish the bike. I know for a fact that I have a grab rail, as well as a couple sets of the frame reflectors. I don't have tank badges, though.

Dave F

 

Stay away from the Max X with cooling system issues, that's a bigger can of worms than you want to deal with.

If you have a "$2000 bike budget" don't think that because you pay $800 for a bike you saved the rest.

Factor this into ANY bike you buy that's more than about 6 years old: Once you repair, rebuild or replace the things necessary to make it safe and reliable, you'll spend about $600~$800 assuming you do all the work yourself. Once you start paying a shop, that will climb exponentially.

So if you buy an old bike for $800, just know that another $800 is going to be required to bring it up to safe and reliable. And a bunch of work. That's things like engine gaskets, fluids and carb parts, brakes, tires, suspension and electrical; no cosmetics added in. Old bikes are NOT old cars.

I'm not trying to put a damper on your enthusiasm; just save you from this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=36333.html

 

Posting a lot? :lol: Some of us have more posts this evening than your total.

These bikes are great. Easy to work on and with this site repairable by anyone willing to put in the time and effort.

Between Len (chacal) and members if you need something for the bike it's laying in someone's parts bin.

 

Wow! I wouldn't come onto your forum and trash this bike just because I made a poor decision. :wink: I definitely wouldn't buy a bike this old and expect it to run like a gem with no maintenance. You gotta give me more credit than that!!! haha. However, I do get your point. I emailed the seller and told him I wasn't interested and hinted the price would need to come down quite a bit. We'll see how it goes. I'm gonna cool down my excitement a bit... although, I'm sure I'll still be checking craigslist and ebay daily for the perfect bike I think you all have saved me from some buyers remorse!!! Keep your fingers crossed that a better one will be on the market in my area soon.

 

That guy was a forum member for a short while; we tried to explain what he was getting himself into but he wasn't up to it and had a whole different set of expectations.

Just remember that what I said applies to ANY bike more than about 6 years old. Doesn't matter what it is or how shiny it is. Knowing what we've told you will help you with any old bike.

 

And keep in mind, this is probably the best forum for just about any bike. Just because it's not a Yammie doesn't mean we are not interested or can't help.

Some of our members own a lot of bikes that aren't Yamaha XJs, and most of them work on them all.

Good hunting

 

He reposted it after my "not interested, too high price, stuff missing" email. This is the new post:

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/2925311831.html

It's relisted for $800 firm. He says he has all the parts that were missing (grab frame, side stickers, tank badges and reflectors on side). He also says it'll come with a windshield....

He's playing with my heart... IDK what to do.

 

well good luck! we'd love to have you around!!

Use the age of the brake lines and tires to lower the price as well as the need to replace the front and rear pads.

let us know how it goes, it looks like it could clean up real nice!

 

How many miles? and did you get through any of the checks many of us suggested?

But how did it check out?

It's very difficult for others to tell you what to do with your money, but keep in mind this will not be the last one put up for sale... sometimes you have to travel to pick up a clean one.

 

Haven't looked at it yet. We are going to go look at it tomorrow. I'm comfortable at $800. It's a decent chunk of money, but nothing I'll tear my hair out over if the bike is a headache.

I know there will be more bikes, but they are all so pricey!! Spring is a horrible time to buy, I know. But I think this is the first running bike I've seen listed less than a grand with at least 650 CCs... and I think the prices are just gonna keep going up as it gets warmer out.

I wouldn't mind traveling a ways, we have a dodge ram that I could buy a ramp for to haul it back. But this is about an hour ride away, so Ben could just ride it home (if the brakes look okay) and i'll drive the car. it'd give him a good feel for it and what might need adjusting.

I'll keep you posted after we look at it tomorrow. Thanks for all the help and encouragement.

Also, did you notice how much more info he's put into his ad since I emailed him (thanks to you guys) about price and what may be missing.

Still not sure about the mileage. I'll text him and see if he knows off the top of his head. What am I looking for mileage wise?

 

Just do a city by city search for comparisions -- don't jump if your gut is telling you something... how did it check out?

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/sear ... catAbb=sss

http://allentown.craigslist.org/search/ ... k=&maxAsk=

http://scranton.craigslist.org/search/? ... catAbb=sss

http://binghamton.craigslist.org/mcy/2896509722.html

 

DO NOT RIDE IT HOME.

A delaminated rear brake (and you cannot tell except by pulling the wheel off) can LOCK the rear wheel unexpectedly. READ THIS and the seven pages of responses, many with pics of their own: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

If it has carb issues and is dumping fuel into the crankcase, an hour on the highway is just about enough to completely trash the motor.

It's just not worth it.

 

It's got just under 17k miles. That sounds good for the age of the bike, right?

I'll let Ben know what you said about riding it home, but I don't think he'll listen to me. I'll make him look at the forum again. I already showed the brake delamination threads to him last night and I mentioned it to him again today. He's pretty stubborn. But at least he has life insurance

I also showed him all the tips on what to look out for and check on. I'm going to buy a compression tester today (it'll be nice to have around even after we are done looking for a bike).

It's all state roads from here to there, no interstate.

BTW, in good condition how does this bike do speed wise? Would it have any problem keeping up with traffic on an interstate? I hope it's not a silly question. Keep in mind, I don't have any desire to ever ride it on the interstate. What's the fun in that, no scenery and a bunch of stupid lane changers. But I was just curious.

 

Would this compression tester be what I need?

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-conn ... 95187.html

 

agreed, please dont risk your life if you have access to a truck. just because the PO is riding it doesnt mean its safe! 800 is a decent price provided it has low mileage (like under 15k). i paid 850 for mine back in september with just over 9k miles looking like this:


and a few months later (another $800-$1000 in work BEFORE i did anything that could be considered cosmetic. front and rear brakes inculding pads and lines, carb rebuild, petc*** rebuild, valves put back into spec, replaced many gaskets, replaced broken header studs) and then, only then, did i start on makin her beautiful. (paint, handlebars, flyscreen, highway pegs) and i'm still not finished! just thought i'd give you an idea of what youre in for. this is how she looks as of yesterday:

 

yes that tester will work on the 650. 14mm plugs.

Since you have a truck, rent a uhaul motorcycle trailer. They're $15 for the day. Get some straps the harbor freight. The trailer is cheaper than a ramp. I wouldn't ride it an hour home either.

They'll have no problems keeping up on the highway. I ride mine faster than the speed limit sign allows no problems. Get it tuned up properly first though.

 

That's what we did when we got Ben's bike. He didn't have his endorsement at the time. I guess that was about 4 years ago. We also didn't have a truck, so we ended up renting a pickup AND trailer from Uhaul. LOL.

I wanted to get a ramp cause there have been times in the past when we wanted one for the other bike. But we'd also have to get a wheel chock and bolt it down... it probably would be too much of a hassle to do before tomorrow anyway. I'll see if Uhaul has some trailers available tomorrow.

Also, Angry Gnome - love your bike. That mini fairing looks great on it.

Well, I can wait on cosmetic fixes. I don't mind a dent, scratch or rip here or there. This is my first bike. And I'll love it no matter what it's cosmetic flaws are. But it's nice to know that we'll have plenty of projects to do on it during the winter months.

 

Im sure i can speak for all of us by strongly advising your husband to NOT ride that bike until the brakes have a FULL rebuild. The reason is simple. A rear wheel lockup can be very dangerous if you arent expecting it even at 25mph. Any faster could possibly be FATAL. Also please have him keep in mind that most of us here are experienced, seasoned riders that are VERY familiar with these old bikes and NONE of us would risk riding one without being absolutely positive that the brakes have been attended to. I dont mean to sound harsh or like I know it all or anything, I just really would hate to see someone get hurt especailly knowing that we could have prevented it, even if it comes across as a lecture. Dont hate the messenger!

 

"Also, Angry Gnome - love your bike. That mini fairing looks great on it. "

Thanks!

 

Truck or trailer you don't need a wheel chock. I take some good ratchet straps and loop one on each side of the handle bars and attach to the front corners of the truck bed (mine has clips in the bed) or trailer ratchet them down equally until the suspension is compressed.

Then in the back loop one strap on each side over a frame rail or swingarm and to the back corners.

That'll keep the bike tied down tight and not shifting.

It helps to have someone hold the bike up but I've done it from the kick stand before.

 

I'm not a hater! :roll: haha

I won't let him ride it home. I'm sure he'll be sour about it though.

But I don't want to rent a Uhaul since there's a chance I won't buy it. I'll see if he'll take a down payment to hold it (have done that with other purchases on craigslist). The skies are supposed to be clear on Thursday, so we could haul it home then if we decide to buy.

Would you trust the guy if he says the brakes have been rebuilt or is that something we'd be able to see?

 

Thanks. Our truck has has clips in the bed (front and back I think). I guess I was just nervous about using only straps. But I guess if the weight is evenly spaced on each side, the bike won't be able to fall huh.

So the guy texted and said "yes both front and rear pads are fairly new. front can be squeaky but nothing major".

 

NO! Trust nothing someone selling something says. The fronts can be checked. DOT lines have date codes stamped on them pads are relatively visable.

The rear can't be checked without removing the rear wheel. Not hard but probably not what you want to do in a hurry.

 

Bike weights roughly 500lbs +/- when I went to pick up Scrappy (parts bike) I bought 4 brand new 1,000lb straps in a set at the Walmart for $25. Tied it up in the Uhaul trailer and towed it DC to Baltimore in rush hour, no problems.

 

to be honest, i wouldnt unless he has a dated service record from a shop. the front brakes are pretty easy to tell. (check the fluid in the master cylinder, check the condition of the rotors, you cant really see the pads without removing the caliper. the lines are stamped with a manufacturing date and theyre only good for 4 years from that date.) with the rear brakes you cant tell at all without removing the rear wheel. So IF he has dated service recipts that list all of these parts being replaced then its a maybe (cuz you still have to wonder what the quality of work that particular shop provides... there are some shady people out there). I dont trust anyone but myself when it comes to safety. but thats just my opinion

 

We've been over the Don't ride it until you look at the rear brake and check the valves and carbs thing, so I'll skip that part.....kinda.

The 650 will keep up with traffic on the expressway...in third gear. You won't have any problems with that if you decide to get it.

All we are really asking is that you get the bike right before riding it.

We don't want to see another XJ hurt, but we REALLY don't want to see another human being get hurt from something that's avoidable.

If you do decide to get it, post the info about the bike in your signature, and list your city in your avatar location. Chances are there is someone near you that would be glad to stop by and help the hubby out with any repairs.

Of course, if it were me, I'd probably charge him a beer for my services LOL

 

oops also look on the records for the most important replaced part of all. rear brake shoes.

And if you dont know already, listen to the guys with the "XJ Wizard" title. They are our resident experts and trust me when i say: We practically worship them. If they cant help ya fix it, no one can!

 

You can see the black plastic cap on the outside of the caliper in this pic.



You can pop that plastic piece off for a visual inspection of the pad thickness. The pads have a groove in the center of them. If you don't see that groove, the pads need replacing.

 

Unless you can PROVE they're new, 30-year old pads need to be replaced regardless of wear.

 

I didn't know! And thanks for that bit of info. For the record, I'm listening to all you guys, but I'll keep that in mind :lol:

 

tskaz - Thanks for posting the pic, that helps!

 

Yes, I should have been more specific. I was referring to wear on new pads, providing he had proof that the brakes were redone.

 

I have an issue with the comment of 'new front brakes ,they just squeak a little'. WHY DO THEY SQUEAK?

1. did they not get bedded properly?
2. is the rotor rusty?
3. was the rest of the sytem flushed out, the caliper, and the master cylinder rebuilt? SOUNDS LIKE A CALIPER IS HANGING UP

You can check the front brake ability easily......put the bike on the center stand, have someone tip it back so the front wheel is off the ground. Spin the wheel and see how quickly and tightly the brakes grab and stop it. Then, when you let go of the lever, how quickly (good), or NOT quickly (BAD) do the brakes let go?

That "squeak" comment bothers me.................

dave F

 

I just went and looked at the new listing......SO, now in addition to the things I mentioned were obviously missing, we find out that there's tears in the seat cover, also no side stand, which means that particular safety switch has been either bypassed or removed................................why was it removed/bypassed - didn't work anymore? Now you have to buy a stand, the spring, AND possibly a switch. How was it bypassed? A wire loop - easy to remove. Cut the wires? Now you have harness repairs to do. What else was cut out that we can't see?

Ah, yes.......the starter button! So.....you need a new starter button. Could be the switch is ok, but the button broke (likely). Still a little nuisance to open the little cage that the button goes in, but the spring is probably gone, too. So, easiest thing....pull the right hand control and replace it with a complete unit.. Not expensive, not hard, not time-consuming but IS something else to add to the growing list.

How many miles on the bike? Were the valve clearances ever checked/adjusted? When? Is there a paper showing what was in there and what is now in there? Were the carbs ever cleaned/synced/mixture-tuned? How? When?
Personally, I'd state for the record that if I were selling an xj650 maxim for $800.00, it would already have had brakes done, carbs done, shim clearance checked and adjusted, electricals checked and all working, bike in good running order, and when possible, already inspected. Hmm.......sounds like the last couple bikes that I DID sell, even for UNDER $800.00, and BOTH people rode their bikes home from here.


I'm not saying don't get it. I AM saying 'if you proceed, do so knowing that there is a lot of stuff that you potentially will have no prior knowledge about and never will. Know that you WILL have issues to resolve. That all being said, I know it may sound like a lot of negativity. It's not inteneded that way, rather, just trying to help you get a clear picture of what is ahead. Now, if you proceed, and ask us tons of questions, we are here to answer, help, guide, supply parts, etc.... We WILL get you taken care of, and you will end up with a bike that you can be proud of, rely on, and of course be able to proudly say, "I DID THIS!!!". Look around at our bikes, may of them were actually in MUCH worse condition than the one you're looking at when we got them, and we have put a lot of time and/or $$ into them to get them to the conditions they are now. If you get this one, eventually you'll be right up here with us. That one looks like a "quick and easy" candidate for many of us..........but the 'firm'price seems high considering everything. If it were near me and a lot cheaper, I'd probably grab it in a heartbeat. Actually, I have two that I picked up this fall that I will be starting in on after a couple other bikes are finished up.

Keep us posted..........................

dave fox

 

hogfiddles -

I've read about the kickstand safety switches before. He had already previously disclosed that the side stand was missing in a previous email. I was also aware of the tears on the seat. At the time I had checked to see if a kickstand was available for the model (which it is) and comes with a spring. I guess I was just thinking that I could put it on the bike no problems. But at that time, I had no idea kickstand safety switches existed. If it's not going to be a hassle, I don't mind doing it. I'm sure there are instructions somewhere on the site.

What exactly should I be looking for in regards to it being bypassed or removed?

 

Also, just under 17k miles. Not sure about servicing. Gonna ask for service papers if available when we go look at it. If the PO doesn't know any service history on it, obviously that is a red flag and I'll walk away. He did say the brake pads were recently replaced, so I assume some maintenance has been done on it, but again I'm gonna ask to see service papers.

You will all be glad to know that with a little persuasion, I talked my hubby into not riding it home if we buy it. We are gonna get a ramp after work on our way down there. If I don't buy the bike, we'll still use the ramp for hubby's bike... so not a waste of money, just something we've been putting off.

 

Are you implying that the starter may be broken because the side kickstand is missing? I'm sure I'll find out this evening. Just trying to get everything in order for my list of questions (the guy is gonna feel like he's being interrogated!)

 

I'm not implying anything.

The ad states the side stand is missing.

In order for the bike to run, the side-stand safety relay MUST be either broken or missing or otherwise disconnected and jumpered. The bike CAN NOT run in anything other than neutral if that's not done. These years have a safety relay on the side stand to prevent someone from starting the bike and then trying to take off with the stand still down. As soon as the bike is shifted into gear it will immediately stall. If the switch goes bad, or it's disconnected, then it must be jumpered so that the bike "thinks" the stand is UP.

The ad also states that the starter button is missing and that he starts it with a non-metal item.

If the starter button is missing, probably the spring is missing, too. What happens is that the button fatigues, the rear lip of it breaks off, and sometime the button goes flying as well as the tiny spring on the inside. It is possible to replace the tiny little 'cage' that the contact, the spring, and the button go in, but it will be a pain because you have to unsolder the wires and resolder the new parts in. OR, just buy a used right control assembly which will probably cost a lot less to get than it would cost to buy the small part. Again, there's plenty of us here that have the parts, myself included.

Other than the stand relay being a safety relay, the starter button has nothing else to do with the stand other than starting the engine, and the relay stopping the engine if the stand is left down when the attempt to put it into gear is made.

I hope he does feel like he's being interrogated. If he's worth his salt, he'll be perfectly fine with that.

He'll also get the impression that you already know a WHOLE LOT about bikes and that he might not want to try to pull something over on you. (yeah, WE know you're new to the bikes, but HE doesn't need to know that - LOL)

After all, you're going to eventually be riding a big hunk of metal that will be the only thing between you and the blacktop going by underneath you at 60+ mph. I would think that you would WANT to know about any possible thing that could compromise your LIFE.

As I said before, I'm not trying to talk you out of it, I just want you to know as MUCH as possible first as you approach going into it.

Also, like I said before......if you DO get the bike, WE are here and we'll make sure you're taken care of. All you have to do is keep posting and asking. That's what we're here for, as well.

Dave F

 

FWIW, when I got my first bike, it was an 83 xj650 maxim. It didn't run, needed tires, a battery, brakes, mastercylinder rebuilt, caliper rebuilt. I did all that FIRST, not having any clue in advance how to do it, learned as I went. When it was ready, I learned to ride it. I bought the bike with 12,000 mi on it, sold it with close to 40,000 on it, got a 2nd place trophy with it, and it NEVER broke down on me.

Now I have a number of xj's as well as a few select other bikes, do almost all my own work, am building an X from scratch, and people here even call me an XJWizard. I would default to others, though I have studied and learned a LOT about these fantastic bikes.

You can do that, too.

Dave Fox

 

Well somebody offered him more, so unless that falls through I'm not getting it. But... there will be plenty of other bikes available, as you all have reminded me I'll keep you updated on whatever I end up finding