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Is my clutch slipping?

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by elGato, Apr 7, 2012.

  1. elGato

    elGato Member

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    Hello, I'm going to need some advice from the pro's! :)

    I was out riding yesterday, and i think my clutch may be slipping! I have never driven a vehicle where the clutch has slipped, but I always thought it slipped at lower RPM's. With my 1982 Maxim XJ750, this is not the case! When I get to the bottom of the power band around 4 or 5000 RPM's, sometimes the clutch starts to slip, or that is what I suspect. When I am at this RPM, and I pull on the throttle, the clutch slips, and the engine speed shoots way up, with no power to the back wheel. I always try to pull in the clutch as soon as possible. This doesn't happen all of the time, only sometimes, but more frequently as time goes!

    So what do you think, clutch slip, or something else? Has anyone had this or a similar problem? I am totally prepared to rebuild the clutch!

    Thanks So Much,

    -elGato!
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Sure sounds like a slipping clutch to me.

    When they first start letting go, it's not usually down in the lower rpms, it's in the part of the powerband where the motor starts to make serious power.

    When you get the symptom of the engine RPMs rising and no corresponding increase in forward velocity; then your clutch is slipping.

    Get after the rebuild right away; the more it slips the better chance of damaging the plain plates. As long as they're ok and the hub and basket aren't horribly grooved; you're only looking at friction plates, springs and a gasket.
     
  3. elGato

    elGato Member

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    Yes! I had hoped this was the problem! I only took it out thirty miles yesterday! Took it back when I felt the slip, so won't ride until I do the clutch, Probaby in a weekend or two. Thanks!

    And is it tricky adjusting the new clutch, and freeplay?
     
  4. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Nope; it's actually easier with all the nice new parts in there.

    Once initially adjusted, you'll probably need to re-adjust after a couple hundred miles and that's it.

    Here's the "how-to" except your bike will be much simpler; you won't have the "clutch boss spring" inside a special friction plate or tabbed plain plates to deal with. Otherwise the guts are virtually the same: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

    Get really crazy and treat yourself to a new, OEM cable while you're at it. My "preferred clutch" after testing many different combinations of parts is XJ4Ever's "aftermarket" (K&L) friction plates, new OEM springs, OEM or refurbished original plain plates, and a new cable; again I prefer the OEM Yamaha one. I like the aftermarket friction plates better than the Yamaha plates but the Yamaha plain plates better than the K&Ls, and prefer the original-weight springs over the slightly heavier "aftermarket" springs. The only exception to all of this is the Barnett High-Po clutch; for that I would recommend all Barnett parts: Friction and plain plates and their springs as well.
     
  5. elGato

    elGato Member

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    Sweet! Thanks! I can't wait to do this project, I am ordering Parts now! :)

    Soon I shall be back on the road!
     
  6. skoster

    skoster Member

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    On a really fresh clutch, you might want to be a bit ginger with it on your first time out. You might be surprised by the grip.
     
  7. elGato

    elGato Member

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    One more question, since my bike is an xj750, do I not need a boss clutch plate?
     
  8. mook1al

    mook1al Member

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    Out of curiosity, what oil are you running in the motor? Have you tried adjusting the clutch yet?
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    There is a (plain) clutch plate attached to the hub; just leave it attached. Unless damaged there is no need to remove it from the hub or replace it.

    The item I was referring to that you DON'T HAVE is called a "clutch boss spring" and it's giant "wave washer" that lives "inside" a special, large ID friction plate partway into the clutch pack. Your clutch just has friction plates and nice round plain plates, no goofy "clutch boss spring" and associated special friction plate to worry about.
     
  10. elGato

    elGato Member

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    I am running regular, not synthetic! And it has been adjusted, with out positive result! Anyways, I love working on the bike, and it is peace of mind to know the clutch is good! And thanks fitz, you've been a real help! :)
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Take the time to ADJUST your Clutch in the manner described in the Clutch Adjustment Link appearing in my Signature Section.

    There are two thing you want to achieve adjusting the Clutch:

    a) Obtaining the MAXIMUM amount of THROW-OUT when the Clutch Lever is Pulled.

    b) Obtaining the LEAST amount of "Free-Play" before the CABLE moves the THROWOUT Lever -and- the THROWOUT Lever moves the LONG Rod -and- the LONG Rod moves the ""PINION-Type"" Pull-Rod disengaging the Clutches.

    Use a Carb Cleaner Tube as a Preliminary Distance Tool:

    :::: Clutch Throw Out ::::
    [​IMG]

    Begin with that much "Throw".
    ::: WITH the ROD and PUSH-Lever Slack -- Removed.
     
  12. Groundswell17

    Groundswell17 Member

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    i'll be doing mine here this week too gato! had a slip yesterday, adjusted, seems alright, but took a look at the plates and they are really old. took my finger along them and tiny pieces of black pain, resin, whatever it is that surrounds the friction pads, was flaking off. For the time being i just flipped them around and re-arranged.

    While i was in there i took a look at my plain plates for of signs of burning, you could def take a look before you order, really took no time at all. mine were lookin pretty darn good except for one, two tiny areas had a little burn, but nothing hateful.
     

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