Stuck needle valve base

Does anyone you have a trick for removing the carburetor needle valve holder ?? The o ring has cemented it in the carb body, I've gone throught the carbs and cleaned them. I am ordering a bowl gasket and needle valve rebuild kit from Mike's XS for 13.50 each, not bad, but the holders don't want to come out. The only think I can think to do is to use a screw tap and put threads inside the holder and make a puller to fit, any ideas.

 

I think you are talking about a "Stuck Float Valve SEAT".

This condition has an easy -- work-around.

However: YOU MUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE A FLOAT HINGE PILLAR WHEN REMOVING THE STUCK SEAT.

You place the ::> SHANK <:: of that Holes Twist Drill in the Hole.
SHANK

The Shank will keep the Brass from going "Out-of-Round" when you Grab onto it with Needle Nosed Vice Grips.

Use the Needle Nosed Vice Grips to get-a-hold on the Seat.

DON'T Break a Float Hinge Pillar pulling the Float Seat.

 

Thanks for the tip, I thought there would be a trick for that. Speaking of carbs, another of my projects is a '82 XJ1100. I've finished restoring it and it runs great, so good that now under a full throttlel the cluch slipps. Anyway, I went throught the carbs and althought it starts just fine, it hardly wants any choke at all, strange ?? I even replaced the butterfly shaft seals on that one and the idle mixture screw oring so it shouldn't be sucking any air.What do you think ?

 

I think your are a lucky guy.
If the Clutch slips in 2nd gear, ... well, ... you can try to adjust it out -or- throw-in some New Clutches.

No big deal.

Lots of those 1100 Bikes don't have 2nd Gear.

 

Rick,

If one has busted the float pillar...and repaired it with JBWeld...think that'll hold, or is it time to give up on that particular carb? And if replacing the carb, is there a particular carb for a particular position?? Thanks!

 

Dang! Ya tell someone to not touch the stove that is hot and what happens. Inevitably, it happens. I have run into the same thing in the past, and a repair on the post just will not last in a gas environment. Pick you up another carb body.

 

My personal preference with dealing with a Broken Hinge Pillar is to swap-out the Carb Body.

There is a Company that "Micro-welds" the Pillar back in place; but the Cost is as much as acquiring a set of Parts Carbs and swapping-out the Body and using your Carbs pieces to be whole again.

($95 - $100+)
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/_P16629.cfm
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/_P16629.cfm

 

Putting a "wet paint" sign on it would've had the same effect. Think I saw a single carb body for sale on eBay. With the other problems I've been having, think I'll get that single one that was on sale for $35 and the whole rack of carbs for $100. Thanks for the advice!

 

$100 is a tad steep for a rack o'carbs, unless they're in really nice shape.

I have two spare racks for the 550s, one "for parts" and one that is perfectly rebuildable; the better one cost $50 off eBay.

The carb bodies are slightly different for each position; even though they're the same castings, they've been drilled differently for the fuel distribution rail, etc. One and four will be completely different, #2 and #3 should swap OK...

 

Well crap...I'm not sure which numbers are which, but I think I bought a #4 to replace a #1.