First bike please help!

Hey everyone, I will soon be getting an '82 maxim and would really like to work on it and make it into a bobber on a student budget. I am told it doesn't run because the Carbs need to be cleaned as it has been in storage for a few years. This forum seems really helpful and I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction on where to start. Detailed instructions would be very much appreciated. Thanks a lot.

 

Check all brakes, especially the rear for delamination aside from that there is a wealth of information on here free for the taking. I would recommend getting acquainted with the site and any parts you need can be ordered from our supporting vendor at XJ forever. Just click on the logo at the top right hand corner of your screen.

 

New XJ! Welcome to XJBikes.

Pretty much all of these bikes bought used, need carb work sooner rather than later-even in running condition. You should get offered up a major discount on the bike though as paying to have it done is expensive-$$$. Doing it yourself (after buying kits, tools, fluids, etc.) will save you hundreds, but you will be learning a new thing and it requires research & time.

You need to put in your signature line what kind of XJ (year, cc, airhead, mods, etc.) and activate your location feature. That will help with the advice you get. There are faq's on here about how to accomplish anything carb related (use search), and video's online.

Keep in mind that you will spend a fair amount to get the bike RR (road ready) and safe. So get a great price and join the fun.

 

newbike91-Its really important to get your bike running and running RIGHT before you start any custom work. You need a manual. You can get many answers here buts theres no substitute for a good shop manual. Also, please be more specific about your bike-model, size, year, ect. If you plan on doing the work yourself, you will need a good torque wrench if you dont already have one.
There was discussion earlier this evening about creating a sticky-a beginners checklist for people just starting out. So-where are you at in regards to getting your bike started? You will need fresh oil, oil filter & a new battery to start. Do not buy automotive oil, these bikes need oil especially designed for motorcycles. Hopefully these few tips will get you started in the right direction.

 

$250 - $400 and figure on another $500 - 700 to get it right. I would suggest you get a compression test before you part with any money and then get a workshop manual or Haynes.....Carbs: yes...clean and clean again...Valves clearances need to be done......The PO rode my XJ up to the house and I'm into it for $700 now having just bought a set of Bridgestone Spitfire S11's as well as all the other essentials......................

Dave

 

The battery is completely dead but shouldn't the kick starter still move? It doesn't and I don't know if that means something more is wrong with it. It cant run now and I don't know if it would with a new battery or not.

 

Kickstart? on an 82 650? Are you sure it is a kickstart, and not the rear brake pedal you are trying to kick?

 

You are right I'm sure. The PO is not very knowledgeble.

 

Whoooaaa there....the PO doesn't know the difference between a kickstart and a rear brake?.....and the bikes not running? I see big red warning flags...... you might want to take someone who KNOWS bikes with you when you take a look......

Dave

 

And you NEED a battery to do the compression test, a jump starting rig will work too.

Look, what's your budget for this PROJECT? Do you have the space to work on it for a few months? And access or money to buy tools?

If you are hoping to ride off into the sunset with a couple weeks work and a couple hundred bucks invested, you won't. Seriously budget $1500-$2000 for everything it NEEDS to be a safe bike to ride, much less custom work. And it takes TIME. Is it doable? YES. Can you learn? YES. Just be sure you know what you are getting into.

PLEASE compression test the engine before buying the bike, you don't need to collect other people's scrap.

 

^^^^ what they said makes good sense.

 

So if the compression is low its junk? I will have to look into that. Thank you.
And yes I plan on working on it for a year or two as I get the money. There is no hurry. And honestly the guy selling it has only had it a couple months because he wanted to work on it but he is moving so it has to go. Just seemed like to good of a deal to pass up. Only asking 250.

 

Well that's a good price for the bike. It's got the title right?

These engines are largely bullet proof, if maintained, they last a long time. Also, there's not much of an aftermarket for overbore rings/pistons you'll need for a full rebuild. And with 4 of everything, + gaskets, rebuilding an engine will set you back $500 or more in parts alone. Most times, it's easier to just get a donor engine. So it's not "junk" but it'll take A LOT more to get it ridable than a bike with good compression. All of the other restoration activities (carbs, brakes, bearings, tires, lube, etc), you'll need to do regardless.

However, if the compression's good, there's not much else that can go wrong with the engine. You just get the valves in spec, maybe change the clutch, and the engine is all set. That plus a straight frame, and everything else is either rebuildable, replacable, or available on ebay.

There are great looking, well preserved bikes out there, that blow horrible compression numbers. Their owners were really bummed to discover this after the fact. There are many bikes out there that have been used, abused, and tossed aside for decades, and still blow good numbers. You can't know unless you test.

 

aahhh 250 well that aint so bad, whats your general impression when you just stand back from it .., any shiny areas or all tired and dull, is it all there, rust, dents, gouges, tears in th seat, all lights intact, strange paint, levers > feet and hands, how's th exhaust system, wires hanging about ... ??

 

Well the chrome parts are a little rusted in some spots and it looked like its been dropped Bc one turn signal is gone and a chip on the tank. Overall I think the motor looks pretty clean and fork seals and tires look brand new. It looks like someone was working on it because it comes with a box of new lines and air filters but the seat is gone. Only concern ks I cant start it. Assuming that's just the battery.

 

Tires have date codes on them, you can verify exactly how old they are.
Fork seals can't be inspected without removing the dust boot. Fork oil can be cleaned off, and if you aren't riding it, you won't see a leak.

How long has it been sitting? You'll likely be well served by doing a full carb tear down, even if a battery is all it needs to start and run. Fully tending to the whole intake will get you that much closer to running RIGHT.

Inquire about the accident. Look for scrapes on the frame and engine. I lowsided my 750 seca and the accident cracked my right, circular, engine cover, scraped fins, and scraped up the plug at the bottom of the engine. If the damage is on the right, also look for a bent brake pedal and handle bars. Check the forks and make sure they're straight. Use a small plasic level and run it up the forks, it should lay flat all the way up.

The accident should be your first concern, forks aren't cheap, and frame straightening may not be either. Your next concern should be the compression test. If it blows good compression, you'll get it running for sure. Just beause it runs, doesn't mean it's got good compression.

 

For $250 you can't go wrong. If you have a place to keep the bike and are in no hurry then that's a good deal regardless. You could part it out and recoup your money if you had to.

Low compression doesn't = junk. It means that your cylinder(s) has/have an issue. Could be valve related or ring related, and both can be fixed. It is a big project though and wouldn't be cheap to fix-but can be done.

 

Also I was looking at carbon rebuild kits and most include float bowl gaskets, o- rings,float needle, seat assembly and pilot screw blind plugs. Is that everything you need and do you need all of it or can some stuff be reused?

 

Read this link thoroughly:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2908.html

Again, the compression test will give you an idea of how much you have to do. There is alot of work [good work!!] that has to be done so that you remain safe. When you get a bike for $250 and then slowly transform it to a good, clean, safe, rideable bike, you will have improved your knowledge and saved money.....how good is that? 8)


Dave

 

It's hard to say what you really need for a carb rebuild, but if you have no knowledge of it being done before, it's generally best to do it all, right, the first time.

That including breaking the rack. Just replacing all of the rubber, you're talking: pilot screw o-rings,enrichment o-rings, float bowl gaskets, fuel tube o-rings, and throttle shaft seals. There are also a lot of fasteners and jets that you might need as well. Float needles and seats are a good idea too.

PM chacal, and he'll let you know all that you could possibly need. You can pair down that list accordingly, but don't skimp on the rubber. Something like a leaky throttle shaft seal will cause LOTS of headaches down the road, it's easier to just do it and know it's done.

Also, when it's time, get yourself some Kroil, and USE IT! I just completely tore down a set of turbo seca carbs that had been sitting for 25 or so years, varnished up to h**k, and every screw came out easy with that stuff.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions this has been extremely helpful.